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MODEl # G0070660 ser. # 000000003001691192

Window reads WARNING CAARGER MISSING AC WORKED FINE ALL WINTER BATTERY READS CHARGED WHAT DO I CHECK NEXT--

Posted by HERBERT E RADAKER on

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dan

  • 651 Answers

SOURCE: Check charging system light...

you might have a bad battery, try disconnecting the negitive battery cable, then the positve, wait 2 minutes and hook positive back up then negitive.good luck

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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blulite111

rommel molina

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: battery not charging

most probably you have an IC problem have a licenced repair man to check on it.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

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richa33

Richard Liao

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: 2 of my 4 vtech handsets keep giving me a 'check battery warning'

Try to reset the handset from handset menu, maybe the eeprom setting for low battery warning threshold have been ereased . Also check ,if the battery is the oregional battery for the phone.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

Tom Griffis

  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: MSI Wind u100 - battery LED flashing red

check for an update with windows 7 then go online to asus support or call them. They should have a solution for you.

Posted on Aug 10, 2010

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 chrysler sebring. battery is hot but starter

STARTER

Posted on Aug 31, 2010

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1 Answer

AC adapter fine also battary fine but HP 4420s dont charging


If that is true the charging circuits on the motherboard will be the problem, "a rare situation" so long as the laptop powers up using the adapter and the charging voltages are missing in the computer terminal where the battery plugs in then this would apply.

Apr 04, 2012 | HEWLETT-PACKARD HP ProBook 4420s Notebook...

1 Answer

2010 Yamaha Mio with 5000km has dead battery. First time - went to start in morning and it's dead. Attempted to try 3 times. Turned over very slowly. Sat for 5 minutes - suddenly started quickly - no...


Hi, Janara500 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Fast charge mio
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Yamaha Mio Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha Owner Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


May 10, 2017 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

Toshiba l20-217 model-2xe 01p00uen ser no.


To repair missing NTLDR orcorrupted system file/s, boot up with the Windows installation CD then - Press R to repair wheninstructed. Press 1 or Enter to repairthe C:\Windows folder. Then type chkdsk /r and then press Enter. The repair process willtake quite a long time.

Jun 03, 2011 | Amstron Toshiba Satellite L20-217 Laptop...

1 Answer

Jonway Whip 125 not charging


Hi, Warryn before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to test and repair the charging system on scooter
Scooter Charging System Check Is It Working
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
Jonway Scooter Parts
http://absolutelyscooterparts.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e



Jul 28, 2017 | Jonway Motorcycles

1 Answer

What is the center pin used for on the HP 3710b business notebook?I am using a IGO aftermarket power adapter that has the three pin connector tip with center pin like the one DELL uses.Checked with volt...


so what is the full service tag data?
3710b or 6710b, you posted both , and is not complete at all those numbers, (vast submodels exist)
the former number dont fly..

if the PC run ok, on AC pack (HP spec, pack) no battery installed then it (pack) and the PC are ok (no bad jacks)

leaving 2 things, battery (that love to fail) or the charging chip you can not unsolder, ever and replace.

the center pin, seen on the schematic
https://elektrotanya.com/hp_compaq_6510b_6710b_inventec_dd1.0_dosxx_dunkel_1.0_rev_a02_sch.pdf/download.html


or is the AC line loss early warning. (tells PC to go to battery early)
this signal ends up on the charge chip
called Charge Control line.

the schematic is free.
have no battery pack schematic that drives this pin
but its tells the PC to go to (battery early, as power fails AC)
the changer over is not instant
so they this pin tells the PC early, the power is failing
my guess, it can detect power loss, in the pack, in 2 milliseconds flat. (power loss early warning)
limit-sig-3j5bl5h152snddnteogw53vw-5-0.jpg

Oct 05, 2017 | HP Compaq 6710b Notebook

1 Answer

Honda Forza S 250 not charging


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Scooter Charging System Check Is It Working
How to test your motorbike battery with multimeter multimeter tutorial
How to test and repair the charging system on scooter
Test Your Battery in 10 Seconds Reliable Load Test with Only Multimeter
Honda NSS250 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda NSS250 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e





Oct 30, 2017 | 2004 Honda Forza S

1 Answer

Whirring sound in my 2007 pt cruiser I bought it used. this has been going on but it getting louder when i got at 60mph. what is the prblem? It steers fine everything works ok in car. i did change the...


Sounds like your alternator bearing are worn and will need to be replaced soon. Keep an eye on your alternator charging system, it may still be working fine (13.5-14.5 volts) but the bearing is warn and the alternator will fail when it does fail 100%.
Have your alternator inspected and replace it before winter comes.
Thank you for using fixya and be safe.

Apr 16, 2010 | 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser Touring Hatchback

1 Answer

Problem with power cord/AC adaptor...maybe?


I would just go buy another battery charger pack. They are like 75 dollars to buy. Sounds like yours might have a short in it!

Mar 26, 2009 | HP Compaq nx6110 Notebook

2 Answers

Motorola w220 is not charging!


My phone gives warning messages like "under temperature" , "No battery" while putting it for charging andfinally when it starts charging the whole night it charges only a little. Could it be the problem with batery or something else-

Jan 05, 2008 | Motorola Mobility W220 Cellular Phone

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