I have had to do this on a project where I took 2 old 60's and made one nice riffle,(sorry I tend to ramble). As was said before, attempting this as someone who has never done it can be quite upsetting, ( I used a great number of curse words both times I have done it). The only thing holding the extractors in is a single VERY strong spring. I used a small pair of needle nosed vice grips and grabbed the extractor from the sides, locking on to the closest part if the edge where it would not break off. If you press into the body with the "jaw" approximately in the middle of its sway pressing down and pulling to the outside of the frame should release the jaw...Keep an eye on that tiny spring...if it falls onto carpet it will be gone forever. The jaw is held in by a little ridge on the interior side. Re assembly is twice as hard, but is exactly the opposite of the removal.
OK, Now I will give you ma much easier and quicker solution. Remove the bolt and soak the end of the bolt in penetrating oil for a few hours, using a good air pressure hose blow out both sided of the bolt at the jaws, You may have to do this a few times, between each cycle i always flush the joints with wd-40 to clean them out. During each cycle use a screwdriver or something to rock each jaw back and forth. This should fix your problem unless the teeth are actually broken off the jaws...I have yet to see that happen. Hope this helps, and sorry for being long winded.
From the manual -
Step #5-The barrel, receiver and action
are now ready for thorough cleaning. The
action should be cleaned in solvent, dried,
and oiled sparingly prior to reassembly.
Further disassembly of the action is not
recommended and should only be
attempted by a qualified gunsmith or the
factory.
************************
I highly recommend you have a professional gunsmith further disassemble they rifle. They have tools and skills that are required to go beyond further disassembly of the action and bolt assemblies and are aware of the spring loaded parts that will fly out of the part upon removal of parts. That being said, the bolt is held together with pins that retain the extractor and the firing pin. They are removed by drifting them out with a punch small enough to pass through the hole the pin is in. All spring bound parts and springs/plungers will "spring forth" when the retaining pin is removed, and unless you know what is under the part between the bolt and the inside of the part, you will lose what ever presses on the back of the part and provides the spring tension grip it has on the case rim.
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