My cpk-17fr Kettle Now the LED light is on, and the light of the start button will not be heated

Jerry Greenberg

• 1691 Answers
• Posted on Apr 29, 2008

SOURCE: HD 4651/C Electric Kettle Handle switch lights but wont heat

This maybe the thermo fuse, and or the heating element that is defective. These parts must be properly replaced for safety issues.

Usually these appliances are not worth to service.

Jerry G.

SOURCE: Presto Heat Dish buzzer

I have no doubt that a previous post meant well with the suggestion to remove and bypass the tilt (or "tip") switch but this a very dangerous thing to do. It costs the manufacturer money to incorporate these safety features. It cuts their profit margin so believe me they wouldn't include them if it wasn't absolutely necessary. To eliminate this switch would disable the unit's capability to not only warn you with the buzzer of an upset condition but also ensure that the element will stay on when lying on it's side on the floor!! The only way the heater "knows" that it has been tipped is from this switch opening up and splicing it's wires directly together will forever prevent the detection of an upset heater. If you fall asleep with the unit on and the pooch brushes past it, knocking it over, it will lie on your nice carpet or wood floor silently cooking anything it touches and the alarm won't sound even when you need it. Don't set yourself up for an easy fire.
The buzzer is wired in series with the heating element (coil) and without the two safety switches it would stay on forever (the round button-like devce at the top of the reflector dish is a temperature high limit switch there to prevent a runaway heat condition). These two switches actually short circiut the buzzer so current will flow only through the heater element under normal operation but if either switch opens current can now flow to the alarm buzzer as well. Since the buzzer adds a lot of resistance to the coil/buzzer path it severely reduces the available shared current to the point where the coil won't heat up but since the buzzer only needs a fraction of what the coil does, it sounds off.
Incidently, that high temperature switch can be tripped off (turning on the buzzer) by a dirty reflector because the dirt or crud spilled on the dish prevents full reflection of the developed heat, dramatically increasing the temperature near the limit switch (as a white surface under the sun reflects heat while a black surface absorbs it). It usually takes a few minutes for this to happen. When the switch resets the cycle repeats. However if the alarm sounds immediately for no apparent reason at start up, either switch or the associated wiring will be open circiut.
Many electrical devices that I have serviced have different sized connectors to prevent mixing up their positions when reassembling but these units use identical sized spade terminals so make sure you note their original locations before pulling them off. Transposed wires may appear normal but cause many and varied new problems. Wires normally are routed to avoid strain so if one looks like it is stretching too hard to reach it's terminal it's probably in the wrong spot.

SOURCE: the kettle will not get hot!

We disassembled the kettle and noticed that the black wire had been disconnected from the base connector which is attached to the heating element. We re-attached the wire clip to the harness and it heated up on the first try. Please note that you may need to crimp the wire connector to the base for a stronger hold. My guess is that as we were moving the unit back and forth the wire connector had seperated.

SOURCE: dryer trips breaker after 10 minutes using low or high heat

Start at the source. See if your breaker is big enough to handel the load for extended periods of time. A dryer uses a large amount of amps and can wear out a breaker that is not big enough. A dryer breaker should be 50a or 60a or if it is it may just be worn out. If that's not it then you may have a bad element. This is the part that makes the heat. You have to pry the front top of the dryer up and tilt it back. The element is on the back of the drum. It's shaped like a disk with a small tab on each side to screw it down. Hope this helps. Good luck.

SOURCE: Switch has stopped working, kettle will not heat water

Hi Bruce or anyone else that has this problem.
I had this problem too and after pulling the base off I found that the switch was ok but the problem lay with the two bi-metallic thermal overload switches that are connected to the heating element. I managed to reset them both and now the kettle works fine. This can become an issue if you have accidently boiled the kettle dry once in it's life. Best of luck.