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Dalene Meyer Posted on Mar 17, 2018
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Nina serger tension settings. Straight stitching gathers up or breaks.

1 Answer

R.A. Ellis

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  • Sewing Machines Master 12,731 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 18, 2018
R.A. Ellis
Sewing Machines Master
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Is that a Bernina? Which model?

Usually, if you are experiencing improper stitching and/or broken threads, it's most often a mis-threading problem. Proper threading is EXTREMELY important to successful serging.

Remove all the thread from the machine. Use colored threads that match the machine diagrams.

ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading!

Thread each thread in the ORDER specified. Usually, Upper looper first, then Lower looper, then needles.

When threading each, grasp the thread below the thread tree and below the tension dial, and give it a tug to seat the thread completely. Sometimes it will pop when it seats. If the stitching has loose looping threads, most likely the thread is not seated completely.

Verify the thread path is correct for each thread before going on to the next thread.

The best tension setting is the midway point--usually marked on the dial. Then the tensions are tweaked following testing. The colored threads will help you determine which thread is misbehaving.

...

5 Related Answers

Chris Wetmore

  • 190 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 04, 2008

SOURCE: tension factory settings for Baby Lock serger Model BL400

The factory settings are 4, 4, 4, 4, and width at M. Hope this helps.

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Anonymous

  • 57 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2008

SOURCE: How do I change the stiches?

You can do all of these stitches by using different combinations of your stitch selector, stitch width and stitch feed knobs, for instance, on the panel I can see on your machine:

http://www.jo-ann.com/joann/product/images/52659.jsp?CATID=cat3122&PRODID=prd11333

Stitches 1, 2 & 3 are straight stitches, centered, left and right. Really basic stuff, not different stitches at all. 4,5,6,7 & 8 are zig-zag stitches of different widths. 9 is the widest zig-zag (no. 8) on a finer stitch length, etc...

I think you should try and get an instruction manual for your machine. After a lengthy search of my usual manual sources, I've determined that that this may not be so easy. I think you should contact White on their 800 number and let them try and help you... 1-800-331-3164.

If you found this helpful, please vote generously as I receive nothing other than acknowledgement for my time.

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 24, 2008

SOURCE: My bottom thread is loose when sewing a straight stitch

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.




Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !


Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 25, 2009

SOURCE: my white speedylock serger 1634 thread keeps getting in knots

i have the book and it says thread from inside out, inside looper (upper) then lower, then thread the needles, first right then left.  I have found that it does not matter if you thread the needles or loopers first but that you should try to thread from inside to out.  

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 06, 2009

SOURCE: Baby Lock Serger Thread keeps breaking

Mmmm...., maybe NOT the solution, maybe, just a key.

I have a copy of theBaby LKock EA-605 instruction booklet in English, Germann, French and Spanish. NO ideas how it casme into my orbit, but happy to pass it on.

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Can I adjust the stitch length to sew a gathering stitch\/

Pin as needed to hold gathers in place. Adjust sewing machine to balanced tension and appropriate length stitch for seams before stitching seam with gathered and straight edges. Stitch on the seamline with the gathered side up- watching that pleats are not formed.
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What tensions should I set my White Speedylock 234DE Serger on, please?

Manipulating the tensions on a serger creates the different stitches. Therefore, it depends what stitch you want to make that determines how you set the tensions. For a basic 4-thread overlock, usually setting the tensions at the midway point is standard, however, some tweaking of each may be required to get them balanced. What helps is to thread with four different colors making it easier to see which thread's tension needs adjustment.

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Set tension on speedylock model 7234

Unfortunately, because a serger uses different thread tensions to form the various stitches, there is no "set it and leave it" setting for everything. However, on most machines, the midpoint of each tension dial is the beginning point to create a regular overlock stitch. That is most often the factory setting, however, that may change over time and use requiring some tension tweaking by the user.

If you have trouble distinguishing one thread among them all, then try threading with four separate colors of thread. Then you can easily tell which thread/tension is out of wack. The ultimate tension is when the threads meet in the middle of the fabric.

One important tip: ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading the machine and give each thread an extra little tug when threading the tension disk (this insures the thread is seated completely in the tension).

Second important tip: It helps to go through each stitch variation and write down in your owner's manual or a reference sheet what each thread tension setting works best for that stitch. Then you have a reference chart for the next time you need to adjust tensions and don't have to go through a laborious effort to recreate the stitch. The tension settings will change if your change thread weights, but at least you will a general beginning point to fine-tune your setting.

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This workbook may be helpful in creating each of the stitches on your overlocker:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwjNgNqgmcPWAhXHgFQKHbIPAf8QFggxMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seworiginal.org%2Fserger_1.PDF&usg=AFQjCNES0GfhyTGFsmFtL2zqoyDDIbLrNA
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Kenmore 19050/19550, I can not figure the proper sequence of numbers to se up for a gathering stitch

All you need to do is set the machine to a straight stitch with the longest stitch length possible. One more thing that is helpful is to loosen the upper tension so you can pull the bobbin thread to gather.
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How do I get a balanced tension with my Elna 624 overlocker?

The best way is to thread with 4 separate colors of thread and then studying the stitch result. With the 4 colors, you can easily tell which thread tension is "off" and whether it should be tightened or loosened. However, a serger is not like a sewing machine where you can set the tension and use that setting for most projects. With a serger, a change in one or a couple of thread tensions will create a totally different stitch.

For most machines, there is a mark at the midway point on each tension control that is the "optimal" tension for a 4-thread overlock. HOWEVER, every machine differs, so these settings may need to be tweaked.

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You may want to download the serger workbooks at this site (Bernina), and work through each of the stitches. Make notes in the workbook as to how you have set up your machine to get the best of each stitch. This will be a great reference manual for many years.

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Can you gather

You can always gather on a sewing machine, no matter its age or model.

Usually, I like to set the upper tension looser so the upper thread shows on the bottom of the fabric. Set the straight stitch length to very long. Stitch two lines of stitching about 1/4" apart on the fabric.

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Instructions on changing thread tensions on a Mylock134

Probably the best thing would be to consult the owner's manual.

BEFORE you thread the serger, RAISE the presser foot so the threads will seat properly and the thread will slide easily. Be sure to thread each thread in the proper ORDER! (Usually upper looper is first, lower looper second and the thread tail should always end up laying OVER the top of the upper looper before passing under the presser foot.)

It is also helpful to use different colors of thread so it is easier to tell which thread's tension needs adjustment.

Sergers require varying tension settings depending on the type of stitch and the appearance you prefer. To achieve the standard stitch setting on most sergers, start out with all the thread tension settings at the midway mark between the high and low numbers. Then test and adjust from there.

Verify with the owner's manual that you are threading everything correctly and not missing any steps. If any thread happens to break or come unthreaded, it is usually best to unthread EVERYTHING and start over from the beginning. (Sergers are very finicky, so if you are frustrated trying to get things to work, the last thing you will usually try is unthreading and rethreading from the beginning.)

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What should the tension settings be for Elna Club 4D overlocker

Hi Nikita86,

Do you perhaps still have a scanned copy of the Club 4D overlocker?
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How to do gathered stitches on j3-20 series

Gathering stitches is same on most makes and models, you just set up for a straight stitch but turn stitch length up to 4 and loosen off the top tension by one number, ie turn it down a little. Then sew two straight stitch seams where you want to gather, one at 10mm from raw edge and one at 20mm from raw edge, leaving long thread tails on both. Then draw up the bobbin (underside) thread to gather the fabric.
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I'm having trouble gathering fabric...no matter how I adjust the stitch length it seems to be too tight and I break the threads when I try to gather. Help!

So you are sewing two rows of straight stitch at 10mm and 20mm from fabric edge with a stitch length of 4? Are you using good quality thread? I like Molynecke, Guttermann or Sylko Supreme.

Try loosening the top and bottom tension too, and use a gathering foot if you have one.

A quick solution is to zig-zag over a length of pearl cotton or similar heavy weight string/thread, this works well for large volumes of gathers such as around a bed valance frill.

For large volume gathering like cushions and bed frills, I use a pleater/ruffler attachment, however, this has only 3 settings so isn't a variable gathering effect.
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