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Kim Harden Posted on Mar 14, 2018
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I need a manual for Nikon Epiphot 200 Metallurgy microscope. It is old and the aperture diaphragm appears to be out of alignment. So, need to re-align.

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Terry

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  • Nikon Master 11,377 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 16, 2018
Terry
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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 111 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 15, 2007

SOURCE: colors out of alignment; curved lines

this sounds like a convergence issue.. one thing you are going to want is a good test dvd.. avia - guide to home theater or video essentials are two very good ones. anything that will supply you with test patterns and let you pause on them will work.

you will need to get into the service menu, using your remote press DISPLAY, 5, VOL+, POWER in quick sequence. once the screen comes up you should have green letters and numbers at the top of the screen. at this point, keys 1 and 4 change the item, keys 2 and 5 change the category, keys 3 and 6 change the value, mute enters write mode, enter executes it.

you will want a test pattern displayed that has a center point, enter the pje section of the menu and go to tphp, if you don't see a crosshair, press 6. you are going to want the convergence grid and the test pattern displayed simultaneously, so press 9 until both are on screen. it will be a crosshatch pattern overlaying your test image. use the joystick button (left or right) to roughly line the crosshatch up with your test image.

now go to tpvp and use the joystick (up and down) to finish lining things up. once you are happy with the changes, hit mute then enter to save it to memory.

this next part is from a tweaks file in the public domain that i have for this model and use any time i am working on one of these.

How to Enter the Convergence Mode
Once you're in the service menu, you need to access the convergence mode. Press the 2 or 5 key until you see PJE in white blocky letters (you should be able to get there quickly by pressing 5 once or twice). Now press 9 on the remote. You will see a bracket appear in the middle of the screen. Press 6 and cycle through the different types of patterns until you get a white grid on a black background.
Controls
Once in the convergence mode (activated by pressing 9 in the PJE section), the buttons on the remote work differently. Keys 1 and 4 move the cursor around on the grid (convergence points) in a spiraling fashion. The joystick on the remote will adjust the position of the current color at that grid point. Key 3 cycles between red, green, and blue adjustments.
You may also depress the joystick, which will allow you to move the bracket freely around the grid. Press it again and you are back to being able to adjust the position of the current color at that grid point. Handy if you are just touching up an area and don't want to spiral through all the points.
How to Converge the CRTs
It's much easier to converge the set if you can see what you're converging. Green should be the color to converge to. The geometry (straightness of the grid) of the green CRT should be good enough - If you notice that some lines are definitely out of whack, you should straighten them.
We need to disable the red and blue CRTs. Press 2 until you get to the 2150P-2 category. Cycle through the items until you get to RGBS. Change the value to 2 (Green CRT Only).
Move back to the PJE category by pressing 5. You should be back at the grid with a green bracket - If you don't see one, press 3 until you do (the bracket may have been set on red or blue, which have been turned off). Navigate around the grid, correcting any obvious errors. Once you're satisfied, turn the red CRT back on (RGBS value of 6, Red and Green CRTs on), and return to the grid. Press 3 until the crosshair is red. Now, align the red to the green, getting as close as you can. By the way, not all grid points are selectable. Keep in mind that the edges of the screen will tend to be more out of focus, and harder to get "tight". Get it as close as you can. You also may notice that some points affect the position of other, nearby points. You'll get the feel for it after a short period of time. Now, do the same for blue, making sure to turn off red (RGBS value of 3, Blue and Green CRTs on). When you're all done, turn all the CRT's back on (RGBS value of 7, All CRTs on), and look to see the results. Touch up where it is needed (if needed at all).
I found the 100 IRE Crosshatch image really showed areas that still needed convergence. I would cycle within the PJE category (pressing 6) between the convergence grid (to fix errors) and the 100 IRE Crosshatch image (to view areas with convergence problems).
Save your convergence to memory by pressing MUTE followed by ENTER.
Remember, you need to do this for each mode you use - This doesn't mean for each input. It applies to 4:3 mode, 16:9 mode, and 1080i 16:9 mode (even though 1080i is a 16:9 mode, it requires its own convergence due to the higher scan-rate). Each mode is separate, and is saved separate, however, each one does tend to affect the other slightly.
Try not to use the Flash Focus. I know it's very easy to use, and they put it right there on the front of the set, so it basically begs to get pressed. But realize that pressing Flash Focus will rely on the sensors to converge your set - It will pretty much re-do all your hard work. It may get close, but it will never be as good as a service mode convergence.
Now that your convergence is done, you should re-register your new convergence to Flash Focus (FF). Ryan says below don't use Flash Focus, and I agree. However, if you do or someone else does, it shouldn't require nearly as much touching up if the new convergence is re-registered to Flash Focus. This is simple to do. While in the PJE category, press the Flash Focus button to initiate a re-registration process to the system. If the operation fails (I've never had this happen), press 0, followed by ENTER to restore the convergence settings you last saved. You'll need to investigate why it did not work. In the PJE category, change to item ERR and it should read a value other than 000 if your attempt at re-registering FF didn't work. If our attempt at re-registering did work, it should read a value of 000. Typically, reasons why re-registering FF won't work are due to overscan being reduced too much but there are other reasons too. Regardless, while you are investigating just don't press FF and you'll be fine.
I have read numerous forums regarding re-registering flash focus. Most say only re-register flash focus in Full. This is what I did. I only watch TV in Full mode anyway, so it worked well. I have read many people having troubles with other modes if they re-register flash focus in Wide Zoom mode so I can only say, read forums and ask questions if you do use your set in other modes before you re-register your flash focus in another mode besides Full.


hope this helps you,
trin

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AJAY MANJARIYA

  • 85 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 03, 2008

SOURCE: HP PHOTOSMART PRINTER C4280 PROBLEM: PRINTER WILL

what error u had got please tell me . also u can uninstall ur printer and again install it

Anonymous

  • 382 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 01, 2008

SOURCE: Panasonic PT-47WX53G Convergence Problem - board replaced still does not align

hi,
First start by verifying your TV is plugged directly
into a wall plug, no extention cords and no surge protectors.If plugging into the wall stops the shutdowns then
go out and replace what ever cord you were using.otherwise you need a TV tech to look at the TV,the problem could be in many places in the TV where convergence IC may be failing
135 volt supply to the horizontal sweep could be low
almost any low voltage supply could have a cracked
solder connection causing random interuption,also I recall nuisence shutdowns with that Model from the CPU PCB being loose.Left side of chassis all the way to front of PCB
its a small PCB that docks into signal main PCB
and it has 3 plugs that fit into sockets and it does
get loose over time (heating and cooling).What I would do would be unplug the TV then remove and remount the CPU PCB..Thank you!!..

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 03, 2009

SOURCE: Nikon Optiphot-2 microscope: tube length?

The Nikon Optiphot 2 tube length is 160 mm DIN finite. It is a 1990 vintage microscope. Any objective lens with the standard RMS thread, -160 engraved on it will work. It will not work with other brnads with the infinity symbol engraved on it or infinity tube length Nikon 200 mm, CFI60 objectives for 2000 vintage to present microscopes. - Lawsen Lew

Gletkin

Gletkin

  • 49 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2009

SOURCE: I keep getting this message

The print head is the carriage that holds the ink cartridges and has tiny nozzles on the bottom that spray the ink on your paper. The nozzles have to be aimed (aligned) either automatically, or in WinXP with the following manual process:

1 Left click on the start button
2 Open "Printers and faxes" on the Start menu.
3 Find your printer on the printer list and right click on it once.
4 Select "Properties" from the pop-up menu.
5 Click on the "Maintenance" tab at the top of the new window.

A selection page for all sorts of upkeep items is then shown. Manual alignment of the print head is one of the choices.

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EE NIKON D 200

Do you mean "fEE"?

You're apparently using a lens with an aperture ring. Turn the ring to its smallest setting (largest f/number). If the lens has an aperture lock, lock it. You can control the aperture from the camera body, the same way as on a lens without an aperture ring.
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This lens lacks the electronics to communicate with the camera. You need to set the aperture to its smallest setting (as you've done) and switch to the manual exposure mode (turn the mode dial to M). You'll get no exposure assistance from the camera's light meter. You can use a separate light meter and/or adjust the exposure by reviewing your pictures.
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In all modes the aperture ring on the lens should be locked at the smallest aperture. In the M and A modes you control the aperture by turning the command dial on the front of the camera. In P and S modes you control the aperture indirectly by turning the command dial on the back of the camera.
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FEE

When this appears on a Nikon AF camera it means that you have not turned the aperture ring to it's minimum setting as aperture control on these works by the stop down linkage operating part way during exposure to achieve the desired setting. Some camera bodies such as the F75 control the aperture totally electronically and lack the lens throat lever needed to stop down the lens and so are not compatible with completely manual lenses.
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Sticking aperture

Yes. A good camera technician can partially disassemble the lens and then thoroughly clean the blades and the rest of the aperture diaphragm mechanism. This is commonly referred to as an internal CLA (cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment). This is a very nice macro lens and it is worth repairing if it otherwise is in exceptionally nice condition.
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Lense will not work with SLR Nikon D90

This lens is too old for the D90, it has not got the electronics for metering and autofocus.
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This recommends CPU lenses for the D90, type G and D.
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Nikon Optiphot-2 microscope: tube length?

The Nikon Optiphot 2 tube length is 160 mm DIN finite. It is a 1990 vintage microscope. Any objective lens with the standard RMS thread, -160 engraved on it will work. It will not work with other brnads with the infinity symbol engraved on it or infinity tube length Nikon 200 mm, CFI60 objectives for 2000 vintage to present microscopes. - Lawsen Lew
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Camera lenses

If your new DSLR has the ability to be used in some mode with accessories like microscopes, telescopes, and the like (perhaps via T-adapters), you should be able to mount the lens via a screw-mount adapter for your brand. Unless the lens has a switch to make the aperture setting manual, though, or your adapter depresses the aperture pin on the lens, you will only be able to use it wide open. Generally, you should only expect to be able to use a manual exposure mode or perhaps an aperture priority mode.

Further, on some brands of camera (like Nikon), you will not be able to focus out to infinity with the lens with a simple adapter. While there are adapters that include an optical element to allow infinity focus, you should do some research to get one with good optical quality. The one made by Bower appears to do a decent job:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mureena/2853461109/

Other camera brands may be able to attain infinity focus with a simple adapter.

In general, adapting an older screw-mount lens to a newer body is going to require some constraints that are likely only worth the bother if the lens provides some capability you otherwise do not have in your current selection of lenses or is unique in some fashion. It would be, for example, a good way to obtain the use of a lens like the Sirius 500mm f/8.8 mirror lens, which uses the fixed f/8.8 aperture. It would be doubtful that adapting the Sirius 80-200mm f/3.9 zoom would make you happy, though, when a lens offered within your DSLR brand of similar speed would not cost much and could be used in all modes offered by the camera, and have autofocus as well.
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