Question about Frigidaire Ovens
Everything else on oven & stove work
Answered on another appliance site..
the F13 indicates that you have an EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) error in the clock control board of the range. You can unplug/turn off breaker to the range for 1 minute and then plug/switch it back on. This too may possibly fix the DR.. maybe?!
Posted on Feb 12, 2018
Testimonial: "Thank you. After power surge I unplugged the oven. New Breaker was installed and we plugged oven back in. that is when DR code came on. Tried unplugging and plugging in again still happens."
SOURCE: GE JGRP17 Gas Oven
Rosanne, he problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in
series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of
electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to
"bake". When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow
through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.
Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.
First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN OR TURN IT OFF AT THE BREAKER!
To replace it... Remove the racks and look up at the broiler manifold. You'll see the igniter mounted at the rear (the round thing with 2 wires going to it). You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.
(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)
The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter, tuck any loose wires as far back into the oven as possible and replace the racks.
(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)
There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
Posted on Oct 11, 2007
On appliances like this only the heating elements use 220 volts. things like the clock, fan, etc use 110 volts. That is why some things work and other do not. Start at the breaker, sometimes a double pole breaker will have 1 side tripped, but will look perfectly fine. switch the breaker all the way to off then re-set. If nothing changes follow the power to the appliance remove the panel and look for some fuses, check to see if any are blown. Also sometimes the microwave will have a separate power source even though its built in to the same appliance. So that's not always a good symptom to follow.
Posted on Nov 11, 2007
First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.
Posted on Nov 11, 2007
Most likely a hot-surface ignitor has failed. If it doesn't consume enough current, the gas valve won't open. It's usually a fairly easy fix, once you gain access to the ignitor and have a new one to replace it with. Make sure you unplug the range...
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
You must check your incoming power for 220 volts. You have lost one leg of your power. Either a bad breaker or bad wall outlet or bad range cord.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
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