Bernina 830: When making a buttonhole... the zigzag #1 stitch on left side looks nice... then the #2 bottom bar tack looks good...

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiVv4WPxZSCAxVUnokEHfK6DIwQwqsBegQIEhAG&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DmPfnx0F7968&usg=AOvVaw1t37XkmxRxeW07N0Cip0Tb&opi=89978449

Easiest way is to create a bar tack at one end of the buttonhole (widest stitch width and stitch length set to 0). Stitch maybe 4 or 5 stitches.
Then move needle all the way to the left, set stitch length to very short (maybe somewhere between 0 & 1), width to slightly less than half, stitch forward to the end of the buttonhole.
Then make another bar tack (as above). Move needle all the way to the right, set to less than half width, short stitch length, and stitch in REVERSE to first bar tack. To tie off, set width to 0 and length to 0 and stitch 2-3 times in place. Raise presser foot, pull gently on fabric and clip threads.

You do it using narrow rows of side by side zig zag stitches and bar tacking the ends of the rows. Make a line where you want the hole to be. Set the zig zag stitch width very narrow, whatever is closest to what suits the fabric. Coarse or loose weaves need a wider width, finer ones a narrower width. Experiment on some scraps to get it right. Number of stitches per inch, or stitch length, should be very fine, at least 20 per inch, but not 0. Try a few more experiments on scraps to make sure it looks right. Make a test hole to be sure it is the right size for your buttons.

Stitch a straight line of zig zags down one side of your line, with the edge of the stitching not quite touching your line. Stitch a second row directly on top of the first one.

Repeat on the other side of the line. Ideally you should still be able to just see the line you drew when the rows are done, but not see any bare fabric on either side of the line.

Then move to one end of your rows. Leave the stitch length the same, but change the width to match the width of your two side by side rows. Stitch a bar tack, about the same length as your two rows are wide. If your two rows are 1/8 inch wide, your bar tack should be 1/8 inch long. Do the same at the other end. Make sure the bar tack covers the very end stitches in the rows as it is the anchor that will prevent unravelling. This is exactly what machine buttonhole makers do, but they do it all for you.
Carefully slit between the rows to open the hole. I like to put a drop of Fray Check or something similar on my buttonholes after I cut them open. It makes them much stronger and they will never come out.

does it sew buttonholes both ways?

My Janome 6500 always buttonholes away from me, so when it starts, it sews the near bartack, then stitches backwards down the right hand side of the buttonhole. It then comes back with little straight stiches on other side and sews the zigzag backwards on the left side, then the far bar tack. I would have thought your Janome would do the same stitch sequence.

There isn't an automatic button hole on this machine. You can do it manually. Thread the bobbin thread as usual, but put it through the little hole on the hook in the bobbin case. Set the stitch length between 0 and 1, like a nice satin stich. Set the needle position to the far left and the stitch width to 2. Sew down the left side. Center the needle, set the width to 4 and lower the feed dogs, stitch about 6 stitches across the bottom. Then reverse the direction, set the needle to the right, stitch width to 2 and go back up the right side. Lower the feed dogs again, set a wide stitch and finish the top.

Another good option is to buy a universal presser foot shank from Bernina and then attach an old cam type buttonhole attachment from Singer. They make beautiful buttonholes and you can even do a keyhole button hole.

Hey, I have a Bernina 830 Record. If it's the same machine, set your stitch length at 0 then back it off about 1 to 2 turns. The middle button is your button hole. Got to one and it goes down the left side, #2 is the bottom cross bar, #3 goes backwards up to form the right side of the buttonhole and $4 is the tack across the top, #5 stitches it into place. I have my original manual if you have any other questions!
Donna/Portland OR

Some machines will start out by sewing a straight stitch all the way around the buttonhole area first and then will zigzag/satin stitch along the sides. Bar tacks will be the last stitches sewn - hope this helps!

You may be able to still get that manual, check with your dealer. If not you can call Viking at: 1-800-474-6437 if it's out of print for a photo copy of the original owners manual.

To make a buttonhole do the following:

1. Turn the selector dial to the top position, That is the first step of the buttonhole.
2. Turn the stitch length dial (the bottom dial) to the picture of the buttonhole, it's between the 0 and the 1 on the dial.
3 Put on the "C" foot and put the tension dial, (the small dial just above and to the right of the needle) on 4.
4. On a test fabric, sew about an inch or so and stop. Turn the selector dial down one click and sew the bar tack of the buttonhole. Just do a few passes, don't build up alot of stitches here.
5. Turn the dial down another click to the 3rd step, the right side of the buttonhole and sew until you reach the place where you started the left column of the buttonhole and stop.
6. Turn the dial UPWARD one click to the bar tack position again and do another bar tack like you did at the top of the buttonhole. Don't build up alot of stitches here, about three passes does the trick.
7 Remove the fabric from the machine and when you cut the threads, leave a tail about 2 inches or so of the thread. From the back side of the buttonhole, pull gently on the thread and a loop from the front thread will appear on the backside. Pull the front thread to the rear and tie off the threads and then cut them close to the knot you tied and the buttonhole will not come apart.

Move the width bar to between 4 and 6, the higher number makes a wider buttonhole. Move the length bar to the middle or right of the buttonhole icon. Set the selector dial on #1, snap on the buttonhole foot with a button snugged up in the back slot. Pull down the button stop lever behind the needle threader and make sure it is lower than the edge of the buttonhole foot, and behind the little tab on the left side of the buttonhole foot. Position the needle over where you want the bottom of the buttonhole to be. It will bartack, sew backwards, bar tack and sew forward based on the size of your button. When it is finished it will stop sewing. Turn the stitch selector dial to #2 to reset, then back to #1 to sew the next buttonhole. Practice on scraps until you are happy with the stitch length and width.

Hi, I'm a Bernina tech and can tell you you need to have a technician recalibrate your buttonhole foot to the machine. There is a function in the service program to do this. Also the machine will need a speed calibration once the buttonhole foot is calibrated. This will definatly solve the problem.