That's just a top mount fridge so if you don't have any ice on the inside back wall of freezer and the fan and compressor is running you could have a freon leak,is everything running if not what isn't running?if you noticed that it has been getting warmer over time remove everything out of the freezer,remove the back inside wall of the freezer,look at the evaporator coil,if you see ice just on top of the coil where the freon lines connect to the evap coil then you have a freon leak,the coil should have an even frost pattern covering the entire coil,if you hear a clicking sound coming from the back then the compressor might not be running,remove the back bottom cover,there's a start device on the compressor part number WPW10448874 the easiest way to check this part is simply unplug the machine remove the start device off of the compressor and shake it,if you hear pieces jingling inside it the device is cooked,you can check it with a meter,you have to write back and let me or whoever might help you know what is going on with it so we can try to help you out,you write the freezer isn't cold and that can be from alt of things,touch the compressor is it red hot or cold?is it running or not,write back
Testimonial: "My family member checked many of the components without finding anything obvious. They ultimately decided that the easiest solution would be to replace the refrigerator."
i don't know if they already bought a new fridge but what i told you to do was pretty simple,if you look at this video and remove the inside back wall of the freezer and it's covered with frost almost like snow then you have a defrost problem,if when the guy in the video shows you the defrost thermostat,if you see just ice on those two copper lines and no frost anywhere else on the coil you have a freon leak,that's the easiest way to tell,watch video and i hope it helps you out.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnRKj7_B...
if they already replaced it with another top mount fridge this could help you in the future,usually the thermostat goes bad on these fridges,sometimes if you look at the t-stat the top of it if it has a plastic cover on it lifts up from moisture getting into it,if you unplug the fridge,cut the two wires going to the t-stat and connect them,manually put the fridge into defrost and the heater comes on then you know the t-stat was the problem.
sorry,plug the fridge back in after you connect the wires and manually put it into defrost,if the heater comes on the t-stat was the problem
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SOURCE: Water collecting in refrigerator and ice collecting in freezer
sounds like you have a clogged defrost drain tube. removing back panel of freezer will give you access to drain trough, melt away the ice with a hair dryer, youll find a drain hole under there somewhere,pouring boiling water down the drain will clear it pretty quickly( i use a steam machine purchased from the infomercials works awesome, after you clear it and all water drain down tube wrap a piece of solid copper wire around the heater( black heater right above the drain trough) and stick it in the whole maybe an inch or so. now every time the heater comes on to defrost it will prevent the hole from freezing over
SOURCE: refrigerator and freezer have stopped
there should be a troubleshooter/techsheet behond t he kickplate under refrig
SOURCE: Whirlpool ED5PHAXSB side by side refrigerator not cooling...
There are a lot of possibilitys. You'll have to use the process of elimination.
But it could be the thermostat (make sure your setting is midway) The milk spoiling indicates it is too warm so bacteria is breeding
Get a refrigerator / freezer stand alone thermostat (about $5) That will give you accurate readings. The fridge shoud be between 35 and 40 F and the freezer 0 plus or minus 3 when set correctly
It could be your condensor fan is clogged or just that your coils need cleaning (underneath or behind) Use a vacuum with the brush end or chisel point. Dust can cut you efficiency by 20 or 30% by itself.
Assuming this is frost free model the defrost timer may be acting up in the freezer.
Forgive me for not knowing where the coils are and if it is frost free but I can't find a manual for this particular model. However the principles apply in any case.
SOURCE: My whirlpool refrigerator (8 years old) is not cold and hums
Possible of 3 reasons.
1) Defrost bimetal is open and not allowing power to heater element in evaporator coil in freezer.
2) Defrost timer is not going into defrost, motor stopped moving.
3) Evaprator fan motor is not rotating. Possible motor.
First check for frost in the back panel of the freezer section.
if there is frost and the fan is operating, would suggest manually putting unit into defrost, depending on particular model. may be a switch you can move with a standard screw driver to get the fans and compressor to shut off. If you find this either. Top of fridge in refrigerator section below temperature selection controls. Or remove toe plate, the pretty decor under the door. and it will be in there.
If this is an electronic style, look under that toe kick and there is a technician's sheet that will explain how to get into defrost.
Allow 10 minutes for heater to heat, listen for water sizzling on heater element. if this does work. you will need the defrost timer.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: dometic refrigerator Model # rm2610
Well first of all solution # 1 pertains to household refridgerators..RV models have no fan inside maybe outside,But I would find out if it gets cold/freezes with 120 volt and or LP(propane) and look trrough the internet and download your model service manual.
Hi,
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling
Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101
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