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How to fix a Dacor lower oven?

The heating element or fuse appear to be the root cause.

Posted by Jeff Spawn on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dacor Double Oven

HI - I just had the same problem - repairman came and reset the breaker in the oven which "tripped" (even tho I havent used the lower oven in months).  Read posts here on other Dacor ovens which explain how to get to the reset switch to avoid having $150 in repair costs - I have not tried that myself tho but good luck!

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dacor ECD230 lower over won't heat up after cleaning

Under the panel between the ovens there is a little square box with a reset button on it.

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

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dsims119

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: fridgiaire Gallery series Model GLEB30T8CBA lower elements dont work

I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.

318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer
318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer

Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.

The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.

To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.

NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.

Posted on May 13, 2009

Mukesh Kumar

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Dacor wont heat, broil or convection after self cleaning

like another person stated-from the front behind the door, take off the 6 screws and the cover by the latch. there is an "oven hi temp limit switch" It is crome with 2 heavy black wires connected to it. On the back side of this is a small red button which will reset the limit switch. I had the same issue (everything worked except the any of the heating elements) and quickly resolved.

Posted on Jan 10, 2011

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Why won't the lower element heat?

DID U TEST THE NEW ELEMENT B4 TRYING IT? U MIGHT BE SURPRISE. OTHER WISE I WOULD D SAY CHECK THE WIRING AND CONNECTIONS IF ITS NOT WORKING, CHECK FOR VOLTAGE AT THE CONNECTORS?


1.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms



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Jun 25, 2015 • Ovens
1helpful
1answer

Dacor bottom oven not heating

I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.

I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.
Jan 31, 2014 • Dacor Ovens
0helpful
1answer

Bake element

It may have also Blown the Fuse, to the element, in the stove itself.
0helpful
1answer

I think my heating element for the Dacor 6 burner range went

Hi there.
You have faulty oven element. and nothing more serious than that.
Simply disconnect and remove the faulty element, and fit a new one.
Problem solved!!!.
Plz rate my solution.Thanks.
1helpful
1answer

Dacor Double Oven

HI - I just had the same problem - repairman came and reset the breaker in the oven which "tripped" (even tho I havent used the lower oven in months).  Read posts here on other Dacor ovens which explain how to get to the reset switch to avoid having $150 in repair costs - I have not tried that myself tho but good luck!
8helpful
1answer

My Dacor wont heat, broil or convection after self cleaning. No heat but everything else works The bake, broil, and convection elements on my Dacor CPS130 electric wall oven will not heat.  The oven has...

like another person stated-from the front behind the door, take off the 6 screws and the cover by the latch. there is an "oven hi temp limit switch" It is crome with 2 heavy black wires connected to it. On the back side of this is a small red button which will reset the limit switch. I had the same issue (everything worked except the any of the heating elements) and quickly resolved.
Jan 07, 2008 • Ovens
0helpful
1answer

Bottom oven of dacor double oven

I found the lower circuit breaker had been tripped. That didn't fix the problem but upon further inspection whoever had worked on the unit years ago had dropped a screwdriver that had lodged between the oven wall and the rear casing and shorted out the lower heating element. I removed the screwdriver and oven works fine now. I don't think that will solve the cmmclow problem but maybee the curcuit breaker is tripped.
0helpful
1answer

Dacor Oven - convection fan stays on while on "bake" setting

Question: does the unit appear to hold the correct temperature? Most convection units only turn the heating elements on and off...not the fan. If the unit is reporting operating temp and then taking other direction...and it is cooking right...you're done.
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