Electrical Supplies Logo

Related Topics:

R
Roy Wiggins Posted on Dec 25, 2017
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

I have abulldozzer 415 electric fence charger only has one terminal for positive no ground it litesup untill i connect fence hot wire?

1 Answer

Franco Pinto

Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Habit-Forming:

Visited the website for 3 consecutive days.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

  • Expert 111 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 02, 2018
Franco Pinto
Expert
Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Habit-Forming:

Visited the website for 3 consecutive days.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

Joined: Dec 21, 2017
Answers
111
Questions
0
Helped
40913
Points
243

Hi
this type ( if not most of them ) has only one terminal positive because when the fence is touched the intruder is the negative terminal hence causing shot circuit ( discharging the electric to the intruder )

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 169 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 03, 2008

SOURCE: Power Generator

You have a brushless generator and you've already checked the capacitor that does the voltage regulation (wiring is fine).
The next thing to look at are the diodes, movs, and wires in the rotor.

Carl

Ad
protek480

Craig Butler

  • 1730 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 02, 2009

SOURCE: we have 2.2 miles of fence,the charger is good for

You have got to make sure there are no weeds or brush at all touching the hot wire. Nothing can touch it or it pulls the voltage level way down. Do a full inspection of line.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Anonymous

  • 23 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 05, 2010

SOURCE: battery positive lead shorted out on battery strap

What is your question?Seems you are are the right track to repairng the fried wires. Even if you do not get them exactly right right just make sure everything is grounded. The engine and battery need grounded tot he frame/firewall.

David Leggett

  • 268 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 07, 2010

SOURCE: Installed the new solar charger

I have see this happen before and its usually do to most moisture/rain getting in. ie use multi meter to varify solar charger putting out current/voltage. Odds are its not anymore. Rechargable batteries are notorius for not lasting but not in 2 months.

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 23, 2011

SOURCE: I have a Maytag MDE

1st you do realize that Australia runs 240 volt 50 cycle (hz) and this dryer is for 60 cycle? if that is not a problem and the dryer can run on 50 cycle power the here is how it is hooked up to the four wire connection.

The two "hot wires" connect just as before. Both black wires will connect where the old black wires were.

The white wire will go to neutral, just as before.

The green, or Ground wire will connect to the frame of the dryer. Try to find a suitable ground point on the dryer to connect the green wire. Often you'll find a green screw that's intended for the green wire.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer
tip

How to wire Intermatic T103 and T104 timers

These instructions are for USA residential wiring only.

VERY IMPORTANT: Understand that in US residential wiring the WHITE wire is _NOT_ ALWAYS_ the neutral wire. Additionally, prior to 1999 the National Electric Code (NEC) did not require that these white wires be re-identified with black tape or similar means when used for purposes other than neutral. The white wire is sometimes used as a hot, especially when wiring Intermatic T103 and T104 timers.

Also understand that the WHITE neutral wire and the bare (or green) equipment grounding wire are connected together ONLY at the main electric power panel and must _never_be connected together _again_. Once those two wires leave the main electric panel, the WHITE neutral wire must _always_ remain insulated from the bare or green equipment grounding wire. This is very important for safety considerations.

If your wiring is very old and does not have a bare equipment grounding conductor, you _must_ protect the circuit with a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter). GFCI wiring is not difficult but is beyond the scope of this post.

DETERMINE WHAT CABLE YOU HAVE:
Usually one will find one of the three following scenarios for the incoming supply cables when wiring a T103 or T104 Intermatic timer:

1...A 120 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE (hot), white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with the T103, but not the T104.

2...A 240 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE(hot), the WHITE is LINE (HOT), and the bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 240 volts. This scenario is used with the T104 ONLY.

3...A 120/240 volt cable with 4 wires: Black, red, white, and bare. The black and red are (LINE) hot, white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to red is 240 volts. Black to white is 120 volts. Red to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with either the T103 or the T104.

The only difference between the T103 and the T104 is the timer motor voltage rating. The T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor and the T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor. The T103 timer motor is connected to terminal "A" and terminal #3 during manufacturing. The T104 timer motor is connected to terminal #1 and terminal 3# at the factory.

Also, when connecting the bare or green wires to the "GR" terminal, it is best to wirenut the wires together with a pigtail, then connect the pigtail to the "GR" (GRound) terminal, WHICH IS THE GREEN SCREW ON THE LOWER PART OF THE CASE.

WIRING THE TIMER:
The wiring diagram for the T103 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T103.pdf
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120/240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES (scenario #3):

Incoming (LINE) wires from 240 volt circuit breaker:
Connect the black (LINE)(hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the red (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #3. Connect the white (neutral in this case) wire to terminal "A".
Connect the bare equipment grounding wire to the "GR" terminal, which is the green screw on the case.

Outgoing wires to 240 volt load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. The bare or green wire goes to the "GR" terminal.
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING _120_ VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #1):

Incoming wires from 120 volt breaker or source:
Black (LINE) to terminal #3. White (neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

Terminals #1 and #2 are NOT used in this case.

Outgoing wires to 120 volt load(s):
Black(hot) to terminal #4. White(neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

The wiring diagram for the T104 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T104.pdf
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #2):

Incoming (LINE) wires from breaker:
Connect the black (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the white (LINE) (hot in this case) to terminal #3. Connect the bare wire to the "GR" terminal.

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.

Outgoing wires to load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. Connect the bare or green wire to terminal "GR".

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES:
Same as above, except the white wire is not used. Just tape or wirenut it off.
1helpful
3answers

I have Parmak S.E.3 fence charger, it's send energy out into wire but not enough to shock cattle, the unit is around a 7 acre field with 2 lines, what could be the problem?

Grounding is very important for an electric fence, especially in dry soil. I normally drive 2 or 3 - 6 foot long ground rods 10 feet apart then join them all together and run that to the charger using double 14 gauge or 12 gauge copper wire. You can get the roda at Tractor Supply.
1helpful
1answer

When I hook up the ground wire the meter shows not working but when I unhook it, it shows full power.

It sounds like to me that you have something shorting the "shock" output to ground. Check your fence to see if there are any plants, or other objects touching the "Hot" wire to the ground. You could also have a broken or cracked insulator that is causing the short circuit on the output.
joe
1helpful
2answers

2001 jeep cherokee overheating have replaced radiator thermostat thermostats sensor There is an electric fan that does not come on it works when you hook power strait to fan have also replaced relay in...

You sound pretty good at this
Go to a local repair shop and have
them print out a wiring diagram
They will have to be successful enough
to subcribe to All Data,Mitchell,etc
0helpful
1answer

Installed the new solar charger in July. ZThe hot wires and ground wires are properly connected, snd the fence is properly grounded. It worked great until approximately two week s ago (end of Sept). The...

I have see this happen before and its usually do to most moisture/rain getting in. ie use multi meter to varify solar charger putting out current/voltage. Odds are its not anymore. Rechargable batteries are notorius for not lasting but not in 2 months.
1helpful
1answer

We have 2.2 miles of fence,the charger is good for 30 miles.We have a 8 ft ground rod by the charger. the fence is a continues loop. positive wire to fence, negative to ground. meter on the charger says it...

You have got to make sure there are no weeds or brush at all touching the hot wire. Nothing can touch it or it pulls the voltage level way down. Do a full inspection of line.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

1helpful
1answer

Controller has no voltage output when connected to fence

You have a dead short to ground somewhere along the fence circuit.Disconnect the leads again,and use a resistance checker to check resistance to ground.(Push a metal rod into the ground to connect one of your leads to,and connect the other lead to the fence.)One or the other fence circuit ends will have a lower resistance to ground.That fence end is closer to the short to ground.Follow that part of the circuit until the resistance to ground is as close to zero as you can find.(taking the ground rod with you as you go)Somewhere in that area you will find your short.
0helpful
1answer

Wiring diagram for a minn kota mk220 2 bank charger

First. the +/positive/hot wires go to the respective/separate +positive/hot side battery terminals.. and the -/negative/ground wire go to their respective/separate -/negative/ground battery terminals.
The wires from the charger are "paired out".. meaning the + and - pair must go to the same battery. .. you can't mix and match.
Not finding what you are looking for?

83 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Electrical Supplies Experts

vince

Level 3 Expert

2530 Answers

NOEL
NOEL

Level 3 Expert

8606 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

Are you an Electrical Supply Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...