Question about Boating
I have recently replaced my 1998 df15 Suzuki remote outboard engine, port side gear/throttle gear change with a 2003 df15 Suzuki remote but has a stbd. side gear/throttle gear change. As the wiring harness on both engines has similar male/female plug can I simply new into old?
The basic circuitry is identical for identical connectors.
Additional harnesses are avalaible for newer dashboards etc...
Posted on Dec 26, 2017
If you want a good selection id try a parts locator. One place that can find you a good short or long block for a [URL="http://www.texas-junkyards.com"]Audi A4 engine[/URL] is [url=http://www.texas-junkyards.com]TEXAS Junkyards[/url], Junk Yards in TEXAS TX salvage recycler. They have a link somehow to multiples of thousands of recycling centers and will locate the best one for you.
Posted on Jul 16, 2008
SOURCE: What do u mean by
I had the exact same problem described here. Here's the full details:
I was driving home from work when the car just died on the freeway. I'm about 90% convinced that when it did, the green key light in the dash flashed 3 times, just like when you remove the key from the car. Restarting the car on the freeway worked fine. When I got home and shifted into park, the car died again. When I tried to restart, it started up just fine, but died within about 1 second. I tried this several times. I went in the house to get organized, then came back out to troubleshoot. I had it in my mind that it might be related to the key, given the key light flashing. I fiddled with the key and noticed the dashboard light flickering. I continued playing with the key, and pretty soon couldn't reproduce the problem.
Thinking that the problem was "fixed" by my fiddling with the key, I took the car out again. About 15 minutes into my trip, going 65MPH on the freeway, the car freaked out. A few dash lights came on (I think including the key light) and the gauges (speed/RPMs) went full for an instant. ...then, the car recovered. I pulled over. When I tried to start the car, I again got the symptom where it would die after about 1 second. Finally, I was able to start the car and went home.
I took the car to a local mechanic who specializes in Honda. He couldn't find anything wrong and couldn't reproduce the problem. Did the same with the local Honda dealership. Same thing. Both were very nice and didn't charge me for this and said to come back when the problem was happening more often. That scared me, since having a car die on the freeway is very dangerous!
I did my research and found this (and similar) stories. ...even though my records indicate that the recall was fixed in my car years ago during a routine maintenance, I was convinced that I was experiencing the problem now (with 115K miles on my 1999 Honda Accord). I took it into the dealer and insisted that they replace the part, even though they couldn't diagnose anything. They did, charging me $166.31. I also asked them to look at signs of failure in the old part.
When I picked up the car, the dealership gave me the old part, and pointed to some melted solder on it, indicating that in the past it probably got really hot. He thought I might have been right that this was the failing part. I took the part home and opened it up. On the inside, I see burnt plastic under the melted solder. Clearly the part had been sparking, which heated it up and melted the solder. I'll try to attach pictures.
I'm not sure why my part is failing, but best guesses are that one of these three things happened:
1. The part was never replaced, even though it says so on my record. This could have been because the dealer / mechanic was lazy, or it could have been an honest mistake.
2. The part was replaced, but was replaced with the wrong part. The dealer might have had a box of old (defective) parts lying around and replaced my part with one of those. Again, this could have been on purpose, or an honest mistake.
3. The new part is also defective.
I'm currently in the process of trying to get Honda to pay for this under the recall 02V120000.
Anyway, hopefully this email will help others.
Hopefully you can see from this picture, but the solder on the upper-left joint is all wrong as if it's been melted...
Here's the inside of the switch. Note the blacked plastic. This isn't black grease--it's actually burned plastic!
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
yes the b goes to the battery.
heres the site for you.. we have all the answers.
i drew this up a while back. it could help you out alot.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
might be some electrical problem, because, Suzukis are mostly controlled Electronically, it may represent a malfunction!!
try contacting an electrition!!
Posted on May 08, 2009
you need to have the engine coolant switch
checked,since the computer relies solely on sensors,the ect tells the computer how cold or hot it is so the
computer will make it a rich or lean mixture to start the engine,if it tells the
computer that it is 75 degrees the computer will lean the mixture like starting
a car in the winter without a choke.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 18, 2017 | Clymer Evinrude/Johnson 5-70 Hp...
May 02, 2016 | Boating
Apr 15, 2016 | Boating
Dec 02, 2015 | Boating
Aug 26, 2015 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks
Jun 25, 2015 | Mercury Marine 15hp & 20hp 4 Stroke...
Sep 01, 2014 | Clymer Yahama 2-250 HP Two-Stroke Outboard...
88 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: