Question about Maytag Heating & Cooling
The compressor checks out ok. Capacitor is new.
if the butter fly clip is brroken . you need to change the door. other than that you can replace the handle only. with the butter fly clip. parts cast only 100.00
Posted on Feb 07, 2008
you need to do an amp draw with your meter,clamp the run wire on the compressor,you should get 2-5 amp reading,any higher means the compressor is going bad,also should be a locked rotor amp(LRA) reading on comp.-mike
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
SOURCE: Maytag MZD2766GEW No Cooling
I replaced all the factory components with a supco 4 in 1. This fridge has a run relay and you must use the the supco part that has a the run cap included or use the Supco part wired to use your original. I did use my original overload too. I should detect compreesor heat much better. Doesn`t hurt a thing to use two overload devices. Some techs do not recommend start kits like Supco but my fridge runs just fine. It could save a unit that you would have to replace. I would not use one on a newer fridge that is still in warranty.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
Sounds like the Freezer Fan is wearing out or is worn out. This fan problem is very hard to detect. The reason is that when the motor is starting to wear out the fan will spin, but at a much lower rpm. This is enough to keep the freezer cold. but will not ciculate enough air thru the freezer and the refrigerator to prevent freezer from and refrigerator from cooler. The cost to repair/replace this fan is a minimum of $300.00
Posted on Jul 28, 2009
Testimonial: "Your solution was right on the mark! The fan was spinning but not fast enough (according to my repair guy). Thanks again!"
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