My kettle has started to switch itself off about half way to boiling. I switch it back on and it flicks off again after 6 seconds. I have done this a few times and the 6 second delay seems to stay constant. Any ideas please. Roy P.
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Look under the kettle at the round circular connector in the bottom. Inside there is a small button that is depressed when the kettle is put on the base. If this is not pushed in far enough it will have problems.
The cause is that after some use the connector in the base plate collapses into the base by 1-2 mm This means the switch is not pushed in far enough.
My kettle had similar issues... I pulled the base plate apart (3 screws I think) and cut a round disk of plastic to lift the connector up by about 1-2mm and then reassembled the base.. No more issues
I had the same problem but my solution was different: Take off the bottom of the kettle. (Although there are 3 pronged security screws, an appropriate width straight blade screw driver will work) On the switch assembly you will see a circular bi-metal strip with an internal tag. This bi-metal strip, when heated by steam from the tube underneath it, bends to click off the power switch. On my kettle it was bent too far down close to the switch lever so I merely bent if up slightly so, when heated, it had to bend further before it tripped the switch lever. There was a bit of trial and error involved. The first time I bent it too far up and it didn't trip the switch lever at all when hot. A further adjustment down a tad made it work perfectly.
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Sounds like the thermostat has gone out of calibration. If you're handy with appliance repair it might be possible to purchase (internet) and replace that part - they're usually not adjustable. Otherwise it's a new kettle.
There can be several causes. In many cases the power switch is thermo or current tripped, It is like a thermo circuit breaker.
The power switch itself may have to be changed. The element is pulling too much current. The thermostat may be defective.
Contact the manufacture to find out where you can buy spare parts to try. You will require the proper connectors, and crimp tools to work inside of these. Also, you will require a sound knowledge of how these appliances work, and the safe way of servicing them.
Because of the way you asked the question, I would think you are not familiar with how to service these devices. I would suggest to give the kettle to a service rep, or to purchase a new one. There are safety issues when servicing appliances.
Unfortunately the problem is in the switch mechanism, and will need to be replaced to correct the problem. My sense is it would be cheaper to replace the kettle than trying to find somebody to repair it.
I think you would only solve this problem by cleaning the thermostat contacts, or replacing the thermostat which wouldn't be worthwhile as it's likely to be cheaper to buy a new kettle. Besides this , just getting into the kettle needs special 3 tongue screwdriver and then a certain technique to open it up without damaging the plastic parts. Im'e afraid its a throw-away world now and its not good .
this is more likley to be the switch its just a bimetallic type,when it gets hot steem on it it flicks the switch to turn the kettle off try giving it a realy good clean up inside around the switch it may just be lime scale blocking the vent hole
however normaly when the switch playes up its a new kettle
I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit. In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch. I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch. I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!
What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.
Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.
My corded Russell Hobbs kettle, after years of use, now turns off before the water is as hot as it should be.
The kettle switches off before full boil.
Opened up the bottom plastic cover. Nothing appears burnt.
switches off before boiling