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Whirlpool model GT1196 SHS blew internal fuse while cooking baked potatoes. Replaced fuse and everything powered on. When I tried to heat a cup of water to test the micro it started then blew the fuse within a second. Any ideas what to check next??
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The only thing inside a microwave oven that draws enough current to blow a fuse is the magnetron that generates the microwaves to provide the cooking power. Based on the age of the unit (approx 15 years) it is most likely best to just replace it as repairs at that level are not cost effective. Newer units cook better and faster using less power these days.
I haven't heard of such a thing. You must have cooked it until there was no moisture left in the potato. That would also account for the failure of the oven. It would be the same as no load in the oven.
A thermal protect part is your current problem.
That was a very long duration to have set for potatoes. It would have made the magnetron burnt by exeeding the limit and findinf there was no conductive medium by moisture , it has ended up burning the magnetron.
First of all clean up the inside and clean up the point of the magnetron beam.Now confirm on the inside to be totally dry.
Disconnect power and check inside for break of fuse to the magnetron.If the microwave does not heat on testing with a cup of water , then it is possible that the magnetron is cooked.
Confirm the cost for the unit to decide on replacement.
Hope this helps.
Many of these ovens have either a humidity sensor or oven cavity sensor that will shut the oven down if the internal oven cavity humidity or temperature exceed a certain level. Baked potatoes are often a culprit as they retain a good amount of heat and generate humidity when they cook. In most cases, allowing the oven to cool down with the door open for about half an hour will restore operation.
However, there is also a thermal cut-out (TCO) on some models that will trip if the internal temperature of the oven cavity gets too hot. If the TCO trips, it must be replaced.
Since you posted no Brand Name of Model Number, I do not know how your oven is configured. If you post back with this information, I can verify and may be able to diagnose a cause of your problem.
one of three things shorted could cause this: H.V. diode,capacitor,or the magnetron tube, take screw driver and short terminals on capacitor before touching anything inside the case, then chk resistance on capacitor should show infinite after needle settles, diode should show hi resistance one way and a lower resistance in the other direction(use the RX100 scale not the RX1) on both parts diode should not show very low resistance or it could be leaking,mag is a different story,it can be chk'd but in a different way
There is an internal fuse, and also a couple of thermostats, and I would be suspicious of the thermostat on or near the magnetron.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
There should also be a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. It helps with troubleshooting.
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