Will I still have water running to the water heater if I shut off the bypass valve?

For the water heater leak detection alarm, make sure that there is no water left near the water heater. (Fix any existing leaks.) Then press and hold the Clear Alarm button on the water heater panel for 1 second. You should hear a beep and the alarm will be bypassed for 24 hours. If additional water is detected, then the alarm will be replaced with a service heater message. (Note: there is no clear alarm button on the App or the water heater shut-off valve.) See the manual for one of the Richmond Smart Water heaters here: https://static.globalimageserver.com/site/richmonddotcom/electricwaterheatinglanding/SmartElectricResidentialWHwithEcontrol.pdf . A manual for the add-on leak sensor and shut-off valve is available here: https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/RHEEM002/Install_Instruct/AP21850.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

blockage -or possible valve failure need to check the lines

It sounds like it's doing it's job, by not letting your water heater turn into a missile, or exploding....The "T" in T&P stands for temperature. When it gets too high, the valve will open. The "P" in T&P stands for pressure. When IT gets too high, the valve will open. When they both get too high...you know the rest...The condition can be caused by many factors.
1. The house "pressure reducing valve" is letting in too much pressure. Any more than 80 lbs. is too much. 50 to 75 is good.
2. Hot water expansion in a closed loop system...no "prv" or "water meter" bypass...To fix, you can install a small "expansion tank" above the water heater. It will allow the extra bit of water to go somewhere temporarily, Letting the T&P valve stay closed. Installation is always on the hot outlet side, because high efficiency water heaters use a "check ball" in the factory installed cold water inlet nipple, which also doubles as a dip tube. (lets cold water into the heater at the bottom)
When a gas fired water heater turns on, there is a pretty fast spike in both temp. and press.
3. The gas control valve itself, has a non resetting 190 degree, "high limit" safety shut off feature. IF that were to fail, the control would run away temperature wise, but I have never heard of one failing.
regards!

your tank is probably going bad in your water heater the shut off valve would be your homes water supply valve.

Check to see if it has a hot water heater bypass installed,if so the valve is likely in the bypass position...

The hot side (top line) should have a check valve between tank and water line. I'd replace it. Be sure you install new one the right way. Stem, spring etc should be facing in tank.

Any RV sales and service place should have them.

Look at back of water heater, valve(s) should be back there. You want valve open to bottom (cold in) and also valve open to allow hot water out at top. Any valves in between, closed.

The first question is this
From the outside of your RV is the water heater square or is it longer than it is tall?

If it is square it is a Suburban
If it is longer than it is tall then it is an Atwood
Forest River mostly uses Suburban

How long do you let the unit burn/run before you try the hot water? From a cold start it will take - depending on the outdoor temp. & the gallon size of your water heater, 15 to 30 minutes for the water to get hot.

If you have waited this long then I would suspect the bypass valve is in the wrong position