Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts.
MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER though seldom CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.
to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click.
Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS.
And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Some fridges are now using ADC boards.
Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC. They are normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic.
Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such as icemaking and electrical air damper door opening and closing.The defrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances.
AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. ( if in series with the windings)
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground or COM
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
How to Test your Defrost Timer How to Test your Defrost Timer
SOURCE: Freezer won't defrost
savey73,
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa
supertechks
SOURCE: ffa70 hotpoint fridge freezer
Adjust the temperature control for the freezer to a normal setting. Fast freeze is only for when new products are put in that need to be frozen. This locks the system into a continuous run mode and could be responsible for the freezing condition in the refrigerator section. Check the temperatures with a thermometer as the sensor for the freezer temperature could be bad causing the light to come on.
SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?
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To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.
Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is
the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to
all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other
types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and
keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In
a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an
electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.
The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer.
Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover
or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front
corners or center of the front kick plate.
A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on
the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the
defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.
The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked
with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.
There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety
thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you
have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then
you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary
by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.
The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it
is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that
needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the
sensor.
If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that
will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I
recommend you contact a reliable technician..
SOURCE: MSD2456DE - fridge side warm
Forcing the frig into a defrost cycle may not solve this problem long term. The old fridgs had a sliding door which bled cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment which you simply adjusted to keep your fresh food compartment at more or less the proper temperature. This simple manually operated sliding door has now been replaced by a motor actuated sliding door that is controlled by the fresh food compartment thermostat. On Whirlpool side by side fridges, the door has, for some reason, been designed so that the sliding door itself will shear or break if the door encounters an obstruction such as ice in the sliding track. Those geniuses designed it so that the door will always fail in the CLOSED position. This means that if this door breaks, the door letting cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment will stay closed and not permit any cold air to enter the fresh food compartment and all your food will spoil. The stupid fridge, will continue to run and run because the thermostat in the fresh food compartment will continually call for more cold air, which is just not available due to the broken door. Eventually, the freezer coils will completely ice up and you will see frost on the outside of the panels that cover the coils. If the door is broken, defrosting the freezer will NOT result in any cooling of the fresh food compartment because the door is closed. To check, use a mirror to see if the door is open. The door is typically on the upper back corner of the fresh food compartment on the freezer side. It will have louvers on it. Using a mirror and a flashlight, you should be able to see if the door is open. If it is closed, using a small screwdriver, you should be able to move it open (unless it's iced up). If you can easily move it open with the screwdriver, the door is definitely broken. At this point you have two alternatives. One is to replace the unit and be very careful about too frequent door openings and overloading the frig with food that is warmer than room temperature. These motor controlled units are not cheap. I should know having bought three of them before getting smarter. The other alternative is to attempt to rebuild and/or repair the sliding door assembly. Dis-assembly is accomplished by carefully cutting off the styrofoam front with a box cutter or something similar. This will expose the door and motor assembly. You can either try and glue another piece of plastic where the readily identifiable broken piece was, or attempt to fabricate a whole new door from a suitable piece of plastic. In any case, finish the job by applying lots of silicone lubricant to the door and door tracks to keep it from sticking again. Simply taping on the styrofoam front is good enough till the next time. I hope this helps you with your problem.
SOURCE: Samsung model RS2556SH, refrigerator
I have a Samsung fridge model no. RS2556sh. We lost power and when the power came back on the fridge did not. The LED is blinking in the top right corner and the lights or on inside the fridge but not cooling in either side. It doesn't sound like the compresser or any of the fans are coming on. So, what's wrong?
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