I need wiring schematic for presto heat dish parabolic heater

SOURCE: Heat Disk Temperature Control (Rheostat) doesn't work properly

The switch inside is a thin piece of metal that flexes as it gets warmer / colder towards a pin that conducts power. This pin is rotated towards and away from the thin piece of metal as you rotate the dial counter clockwise / clockwise. The thin piece of metal glows when in use as resistance to electricity running through it causes it to heat up. You have seen this through the vent slats under the dial on the back of the unit. The resistance the thin piece of metal provides causes the electricity usage to be lower and the reason the unit has an 800w to 1500w power rating. The thin piece of metal is failing. You can have the heater FULL power but that is blowing lots of $$ in electric and you may not need all that heat. In the end the thin piece of metal will FAIL so the heater will no longer turn on at any setting. You can bypass the switch since the heating element and everything else is still in good working order and have a heater that works on 'high' all the time when that happens. You CANNOT order just a new switch, which would take anyone less than 5 minutes install. I thought the switch design was ingenious but poor quality metal even though it is a fraction of an oz in weight (since it is so small they SHOULD HAVE used better quality metal, it would have cost next to nothing extra) is most likely the culprit here. It is sad that the Presto Heatdish has to go to the landfill due to such a simple materials error. You will see how to bypass the switch though so it is on 'full and full time'. Maybe purchase a high wattage timer for it so you can set it to turn on in the evenings and mornings for a specified amount of time? Some good timers are around $7. Stan Horstman

SOURCE: Presto Heat Dish

The hardest part of cleaning the dish is that you can't get your hand inside the cage surrounding the dish. What I did was to use a wire cutter to snip enough pieces of the cage off so that I could get access to the dish. If you do it carefully, it looks as if it was intended and doesn't prevent the cage from working. If you think of the cage/dish as a clock, I cut all the strips between 9 and 11, and 1 and 3. Easy to clean the dish afterwards.

That might not solve the buzzing problem, though. It didn't solve it for me.

SOURCE: presto heaters

We have one in our office where our entry is pretty close to teh main door. It used to buzz all the time after being on for maybe 10 minutes. One day I got sick of it and took a cloth and some windex and cleaned the reflecting dish, and that actually stopped it

SOURCE: Cleaning the dish on my Presto space heater.

I pried the upper rim with needle nosed pliers --,just enough to get the grid off. After cleaning with Mister Bubbles, I popped the grid back in and bent the rim back down. I then took a hammer and
smoothed the rough edges. Looks almost like new!!

SOURCE: Presto Heat Dish buzzer

I have no doubt that a previous post meant well with the suggestion to remove and bypass the tilt (or "tip") switch but this a very dangerous thing to do. It costs the manufacturer money to incorporate these safety features. It cuts their profit margin so believe me they wouldn't include them if it wasn't absolutely necessary. To eliminate this switch would disable the unit's capability to not only warn you with the buzzer of an upset condition but also ensure that the element will stay on when lying on it's side on the floor!! The only way the heater "knows" that it has been tipped is from this switch opening up and splicing it's wires directly together will forever prevent the detection of an upset heater. If you fall asleep with the unit on and the pooch brushes past it, knocking it over, it will lie on your nice carpet or wood floor silently cooking anything it touches and the alarm won't sound even when you need it. Don't set yourself up for an easy fire.
The buzzer is wired in series with the heating element (coil) and without the two safety switches it would stay on forever (the round button-like devce at the top of the reflector dish is a temperature high limit switch there to prevent a runaway heat condition). These two switches actually short circiut the buzzer so current will flow only through the heater element under normal operation but if either switch opens current can now flow to the alarm buzzer as well. Since the buzzer adds a lot of resistance to the coil/buzzer path it severely reduces the available shared current to the point where the coil won't heat up but since the buzzer only needs a fraction of what the coil does, it sounds off.
Incidently, that high temperature switch can be tripped off (turning on the buzzer) by a dirty reflector because the dirt or crud spilled on the dish prevents full reflection of the developed heat, dramatically increasing the temperature near the limit switch (as a white surface under the sun reflects heat while a black surface absorbs it). It usually takes a few minutes for this to happen. When the switch resets the cycle repeats. However if the alarm sounds immediately for no apparent reason at start up, either switch or the associated wiring will be open circiut.
Many electrical devices that I have serviced have different sized connectors to prevent mixing up their positions when reassembling but these units use identical sized spade terminals so make sure you note their original locations before pulling them off. Transposed wires may appear normal but cause many and varied new problems. Wires normally are routed to avoid strain so if one looks like it is stretching too hard to reach it's terminal it's probably in the wrong spot.