Cleaning SCUBA tanks

With the Printer powered on:
1. Open the Lid
2. Raise the Print head
3. Remove Ribbon.

The printer's controls will now allow you to move the rollers back and forth. Look into the printer to locate the card and try moving the rollers in one direction, so the card exits the card path.

Card jams usual occur when the card path is dirty and in need of cleaning. Do not attempt to use any house hold cleaners. you need a specific type of alcohol cleaner, otherwise the rollers will dry out and crack. If you do not have a Fargo Cleaning kit, you can check out this link for purchase.


ID Card Printer Cleaning Kits Brien Security

The printer should be cleaned every 3000 cards or every few months.

Service manuals are not generally available. It is strongly recommended that you have an authorised dealer service your regs unless you have undertaken specific training. Hope that helps.

It is a HORRIBLE idea for you to dismantle your first stage. It should only be done by a trained technician because of how many small parts there are... now depending on your regulator you might have the ability to turn down the pressure... read the manual to find out if your reg has this adjustment capability. 

If you are not trained in this it is best to take it to a licenced scuba shop and get them to do it. Much safer and better peace of mind. If you want to clean it yourself then go to the same shop and ask them to point you in the direction of a training organisation, often specific companys, and do the training first, get the right tools and get into it.

The scuba regulator is employed in an open-circuit scuba set. Said scuba equipment reduces high air pressure conveyed by the diving cylinder to the first stage and feeds breathable gas to the diver through the second stage's mouthpiece. Also called pressure regulator or demand regulator, the scuba equipment is one of the essentials to diving that determines breathing quality and inhalation effort during the dive. But given the different types of regulators and the pertinent design of its first and second stage components, how should a neophyte diver - or even a seasoned diver at that, choose a scuba regulator that incorporates user adjustment and delivers a venturi-assisted air flow in its features? Consider your diving purpose and frequency. Better yet, take note of the following criteria to guide you in your purchase: 1. The Scuba Regulator's Mouthpiece. Check the specifications if the regulator is outfitted with a patented orthodontic mouthpiece. This implies that it is ergonomically-designed to accommodate an overbite or underbite by the human mouth. An ergonomic mouthpiece helps reduce fatigue in the mouth and jaw area, particularly in the cruise of lower depths and extended dives. 2. User Adjustment Settings. There are optimally-designed scuba regulators that are outfitted with adjustment levers to therefore allow divers to finetune valve settings in order to provide the least possible inhalation effort throughout the dive. One notable scuba equipment is the Aeris AT 400 Pro Regulator that is equipped with an adjustable second stage. 3. Weight of the Scuba Regulator. Visualize yourself on a dive and using just any other type of scuba regulator. Is the regulator bulky to considerably increase drag and cause jaw fatigue or is it buoyant enough for you to carry around with your mouth? Lightweight scuba regulators use polycarbonate thermoplastics for its housing to make the scuba equipment compact, sturdy and corrosion-resistant that makes them fit for extended use. 4. Nitrox Compatibility. This entails an ocular inspection of the cylinder tank (Nitrogen and Oxygen proportions) and scuba regulator (Nitrox compatibility) specifications. As a matter of convention, most regulators are suited for nitrox mixture use out of the box; containing the standard, maximum proportion of 40% Oxygen (in terms of volume) but then again, there are gas mixes supporting leaner proportions of oxygen such as the trimix. Therefore, check if the scuba regulator supports the gas mixture configured for your diving cylinder prior to purchase. 5. No-Contaminant Feature. As much as possible, choose a diving regulator that has been manufactured using Dry Valve Technology (DVT). DVT operates through an automatic valve that prevents contamination of the first stage mechanism to thus prevent regulator flooding and the entry of moisture or dust particles. This likely improves scuba regulator performance and extends its useful life. 6. Air-Sharing Feature. This feature often associated with octopus regulators (used as a spare demand valve or alternate second stage) will prove to be most helpful during diving emergencies such as a free flow or during diver rescues. High performance octopus regulators such as the Aeris Gyro Octopus Regulator are designed lightweight and with air-sharing feature, while sporting an inline swivel for convenience mounting and flexibility

Scuba gauges give a diver three very important pieces of information: 1. Time 2. Depth 3. Air Consumption This information enables a diver to stay within safe time and depth limits and avoid running out of air. There are many different devices on the market to help with this, from simple gauges to complex digital consoles. Time If a diver is not using a dive computer to monitor their nitrogen, they dive according to approved dive tables. To use dive tables properly, a diver needs to track their downtime. This can be done with a good dive watch. Two things make a good dive watch: water resistance and a rotating bezel. 1. Water Resistance. Good dive watches are rated to a depth in meters or feet (e.g. 200 feet) or a pressure rating in atmospheres (e.g. 4atm). Even though most divers probably won’t dive below 130 feet (the recreational dive limit), a good dive watch should be rated to 200 feet. Note: There is a difference between “water resistance” and “waterproof”. A “waterproof” watch is what you would wear in the shower, but would probably start leaking at 15-20 feet. 2. Rotating Bezel. A bezel is an adjustable ring on the face of the dive watch with a pointer indicator. At the beginning of a dive, the pointer on the bezel is aligned with the minute hand where it stays though out the dive. At the end of the dive, you compare the difference between the bezel and the minute hand to find out the length of the dive. The bezel should only move “counterclockwise”. It is possible to accidently move the bezel during a dive. Because of this, watchmakers make sure any accidental movement will turn the time in a conservative direction, making the dive longer rather than shorter. Depth Another important part of scuba gauges is a depth gauge. A depth gauge enables a diver to keep track of their depth even if they cannot see the water’s surface. Gauges can be either an analog (needle-and-dial) device or a digital device. Both work in the same way. They measure the surrounding water pressure and convert this into an accurate reading of your depth. Another feature of a good depth gauge is a maximum depth indicator. This tells a diver their maximum during a dive and must be reset after each dive. Air Consumption Another equally important part of scuba gauges is a submersible pressure gauge (SPG). This is connected to the first stage with a high-pressure hose and measures the pressure of the air in the tank. The SPG is much like the gas gauge on a car. At the beginning of a dive, a diver starts with a full tank. This should be about 3000 psi or 200 bars. As the diver breathes during the dive, the gauge will move slowly downwards. This allows the diver to have enough air left in the tank to: 1. Make a slow, safe ascent 2. Make any necessary decompression stops 3. Inflate their BCD once at the surface 4. Breath from the regulator if the surface conditions are rough A submersible pressure gauge also allows a diver to stop diving with air still in the tank. This keeps contaminants from entering the tank due to no air pressure. Wrist Depth Gauge Scuba gauges come in two basic styles. Stand alone gauges or gauge consoles. Stand alone gauges such as a wrist mounted depth gauge or a submersible pressure gauge attached to the first stage of a regulator are great backups when using digital gauges. Gauge consoles allow divers to have all their gauges in one place. Although less easy to read, analog gauges sometimes give slightly more accurate readings than digital gauges, particularly at shallow depth. Submersible Pressure Gauge Choosing Scuba Gauges When choosing scuba gauges, remember to look for: 1. Easy-to-read numbers 2. Luminescent dial or back lighting options 3. Rotating/swivel mounting 4. Easy disassembly for cleaning or replacing parts 5. Good warranty

"Because the scuba regulator is such a vital piece of gear many scuba divers choose to buy their own scuba regulator instead of renting one from the dive shop. When a scuba diver has used a few different scuba regulators, on numerous dives, he will notice that they all have slightly different ""action"" - some feel looser or tighter, some will deliver air more forcefully, others will have a slight ""suck"" to them. The goal of all regulators is the same: to deliver air on demand at ambient pressure. Comfort with a scuba regulator depends on how the diver breathes; which is different for everyone. Though a helpful clerk at the dive gear shop can recommend ""the best"" regulators, from the most respected manufacturers, in truth no one can tell you which regulator ""feels right"", except you. Sponsor Links [what's this?] As a novice scuba diver renting or borrowing equipment from a dive shop always take note of what scuba regulator you are using and whether you like how it feels. When you find the one which makes your breathing feel effortless remember its make and model. When you decide to buy your own scuba regulator you will know which one to get. When shopping for a scuba regulator here are some things to consider: See our choices for scuba regulators * Ergonomic design and easy to hold * A purge button which is easily pressed even when wearing 6mm neoprene gloves * External controls which let you make fine adjustments to air flow * Non-corroding metals like titanium or chromed brass * Diaphragm vs. piston mechanics. Many divers prefer diaphragm regulators for its smooth movement and its moving parts are less * Balanced vs. unbalanced regulators. Almost all regulators are balanced. Do not buy an unbalanced regulator. * Always buy new. Do not pick up a cheap second-hand regulator; it may be faulty or reconditioned * Look for a warranty * Swivel joints on the second stage offer improved ease of movement * Hose should be soft and flexible "

"Because the scuba regulator is such a vital piece of gear many scuba divers choose to buy their own scuba regulator instead of renting one from the dive shop. When a scuba diver has used a few different scuba regulators, on numerous dives, he will notice that they all have slightly different ""action"" - some feel looser or tighter, some will deliver air more forcefully, others will have a slight ""suck"" to them. The goal of all regulators is the same: to deliver air on demand at ambient pressure. Comfort with a scuba regulator depends on how the diver breathes; which is different for everyone. Though a helpful clerk at the dive gear shop can recommend ""the best"" regulators, from the most respected manufacturers, in truth no one can tell you which regulator ""feels right"", except you. Sponsor Links [what's this?] As a novice scuba diver renting or borrowing equipment from a dive shop always take note of what scuba regulator you are using and whether you like how it feels. When you find the one which makes your breathing feel effortless remember its make and model. When you decide to buy your own scuba regulator you will know which one to get. When shopping for a scuba regulator here are some things to consider: See our choices for scuba regulators * Ergonomic design and easy to hold * A purge button which is easily pressed even when wearing 6mm neoprene gloves * External controls which let you make fine adjustments to air flow * Non-corroding metals like titanium or chromed brass * Diaphragm vs. piston mechanics. Many divers prefer diaphragm regulators for its smooth movement and its moving parts are less * Balanced vs. unbalanced regulators. Almost all regulators are balanced. Do not buy an unbalanced regulator. * Always buy new. Do not pick up a cheap second-hand regulator; it may be faulty or reconditioned * Look for a warranty * Swivel joints on the second stage offer improved ease of movement * Hose should be soft and flexible "

"The scuba tank is one of the most important pieces of dive equipment. It must be looked after. A well-maintained tank could give 20 or 30 years service. A neglected tank can fail with the force of a hand grenade. It pays to care for a scuba tank, not only for economy, but also for safety and diving enjoyment. The following ten tips can help ensure a scuba diving tank will provide many years of faithful diving service. 1) Never completely empty a scuba tank. Always leave at least 1000 kPa to ensure moisture doesn’t enter. 2) Always rinse the scuba tank and valve in fresh water after use. 3) If the scuba tank is to be stored for a few months, drain the air down to around 1000 kPa. This is to decrease the amount of oxygen that can cause corrosion. 4) A scuba tank should be stored standing up out of direct sunlight. 5) A scuba tank should be carried with care and attention. They shouldn’t be carried on the shoulder as a fall can lead to the valve getting smashed off and the tank taking off like a rocket. 6) A scuba tank should be regularly tested in accordance with statutory regulations. 7) A scuba tank should not be left in a closed car in the heat of the day. It can heat up and explode or the burst disk can rupture; both scenarios leading to damage to the car. When in the car the tank should be carried with the valve towards the back. If the car brakes suddenly the tank valve won’t be damaged as the tank moves forward with its momentum. 8) The scuba tank valve should not be turned off too tightly. It only has to be just nipped closed enough to stop the air flow. 9) A scuba tank should be filled with clean, dry air. Any discolouration around the air outlet or bad odour should be treated with suspicion. If there are any doubts that a tank has been filled with bad air, it should not be used for scuba diving and should be checked immediately. A bad fill can lead to damage to the tank, as well as pose a threat to a diver. 10) If painting a tank, ensure no heat curing paints or strippers are used as these could affect the strength of the tank."

" 1. Rinse your booties in clean, freshwater after each dive and allow them to dry thoroughly before storing. After a div, your booties will be covered in a salty residue and/or dirt. This must be rinsed clean to prevent the neoprene from degrading. Your scuba booties must be completely dry before storing to ensure the neoprene stays clean, odor-free and free of mildew or mold. 2. Scuba bootie zippers should be lubricated occasionally to prevent degradation of the metal or plastic. 3. Always store your scuba booties out of direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will break down the neoprene after years of exposure. 4. Periodically machine or hand-wash your scuba booties. A good rinse after each dive helps to keep your booties clean, but to ensure there is no residue or grit left on your booties you must properly clean them on a regular basis. You can purchase a commercially prepared neoprene shampoo, zipper lubricant/desalter and a neoprene sealant to thoroughly clean and seal your scuba booties. A commercial shampoo and sealant are specifically manufactured to care for your neoprene and is the recommended method for proper maintenance. 5. Any holes in the neoprene on your scuba booties can be fixed using a commercial wet suit cement. "