Model numberE3EB-020H AC works fine, no buzzing
Is it only in heat? Possibly the heater contactor but I don't believe nordyne uses a contactor. could possibly be the transformer humming? many different strange noises come from units, may want to have it serviced.
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Testimonial: "Thomas Woodburn has been great get back to me and explaining the most probable cause for the noise. Thanks!"
Yes, I think we will have to get a professional. Just afraid of getting someone that will really take advantage of us. Thanks!
what I would do is call for someone to do a maintenance, say you just want it cleaned up before season. Then, see what they find and you don't have to say yes to the repairs.
That's a good idea! This morning we turned the heat on, it buzzed for about 10 minutes, I heard a 'click', it stopped buzzing, and the blower stayed on. We left it running for another 20 minutes, with the blower going off and on, and no buzzing. Think it might be ok?
actually I just pulled up your diagram and it shows you have 2 heater contactors. I'm willing to bet your second stage heater contactor is worn. the heat stages on demand, meaning when you are really trying to heat, both stages will run. when you are simply maintaing temperature it will run only in first stage, therefore saving electricity. you are only hearing the noise while in second stage (just a guess). you could carefully verify this by running the machine with the panel off and watching the contactors pull in with a call for heating. you can then very carefully hold the contactor "button" with an insulated screwdriver to see if you can stop the rattling and be sure this is the problem. 240 volts hurts so be confident or don't. contactors are relatively inexpensive but I'm sure it's your problem. best wishes.
Thank you SO much for taking time to look this up, and reply! We took the panel off where we can see the blower, 2 breakers,wiring diagrams, and notices. There is a ?metal panel beside the breakers that has 3 five sided bolts. I assume this is the panel with the contactors. The side has a bunch of wiring where the blower is attached. We're trying to decide if we should try to troubleshoot this ourselves or not. If we do confirm this is the problem, is it something we can buy and replace ourselves? Thanks again for taking time to help us!
obviously for me it's simple, it's what I do everyday. electricity is dangerous and yes it kills people. BUT, electricians do it, electricians are smart. You don't touch bare wires, you watch your elbow when your inside a machine etc... changing a contactor is simple, you take a picture of it first and put it back together the same way it was. yes you can buy one and yes you can fix it. obviously you have to have the power on to see what is happening but when making the repair be sure the power is off!!!
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As Thomas stated, the heat elements may be controlled by what's called a contactor instead of a heat sequencer. The sequencers are quiet. But contactor's can be loud. It's probably that. You won't get a 100% answer without a Technician. Ask him/her to replace the contactor with a sequencer, if that's the issue.
Testimonial: "The sequencer sounds great, but if we had that could it just go out anytime without the warning buzz? Would rather have the noise to let me know to start figuring out an expensive repair may be coming.... :)"
SOURCE: Goodman Condenser - Heat - Buzzing Noise every 60 seconds
You stated capasitor was checked . if cap. is ok sometimes start terminal wire will burn into at compressor or you may have a loose connection causing a voltage drop (more than 10%).If both check ok try a hard start kit. Who knows it might start. good luck
SOURCE: Anyone have a wireing diagram for a nordyne E1EH-015HA
Intertherm does not offer a wiring diagram for the E1 series anymore. So I have included a link to the E2 series. They are very similar and you may find this service manual helpful for whatever problem you may be having.
http://www.nordyne.com/literature/359a.pdf
SOURCE: Dryer makes buzzing noise but will not run.
that is the sign of a bad dryer motor-sorry-mike
SOURCE: GOODMAN HEATPUMP AC REVERSING
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. The reversing valve making noise (probably a 60 cycle noise) is a sign that the reversing valve is not stoking a full stroke to where the armature of the coil is neutralized by the internal plunger moving to the neutral position. Sometimes you can take 2 hammer handles to the BODY of the reversing valve with some careful strikes so as not to DENT the body and loosen up the internal piston so that it strokes fully. If that does not make it snap out of the buzzing routine then the only option is to replace the reversing valve. This will require the system to be drained of coolant, purged, the valve replaced and then the system recharged which does not come cheaply. It is not going to hurt anything buzzing. I know it is irritating and annoying but my thoughts are if you can give it some wooden taps and at least quiet it down some what to leave it alone unless your willing to go though the expense of a full system drain & service + a service call with a reversing valve change.
Here is the worst that can happen.... the solenoid on the reversing valve gets hot from not fully stroking and fails at which point you get the new reversing valve installed.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
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let me add you need a 2 POLE 24 VOLT COIL CONTACTOR.
and...enquiring minds want to know
Sorry I got out of touch. The initial buzzing noise started when first turned on after being off all summer. Have ran it a few times now. Buzzes for 10 minutes when first turned on, then no more, UNLESS power turned off. Yesterday when turned on, for the night, it only buzzed for 2 minutes. I think we should buy a new contractor to keep on hand, if we can find one mobile home compatible for this model furnace. I can see it going out when it's really cold, and calling in someone who will have to order the part?? Now if we can just figure what to order..... And the price.... Can't order something expensive to sit here not knowing for sure it's the right one, and that it works...
as I said you need a 2 POLE contactor with a 24 volt coil. good luck.
Not sure, but I think the mobile home compatible has to be aluminum wiring instead of copper. If the whole furnace were replaced it might not be that important, but just one component may be really important??
the contactor has nothing to do with the wire. you are not changing any wires you are only changing the contactor. copper/ aluminum wire does not effect the contactor
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