I can't seem to figure out how to seperate the engine radiator from the air conditining radiator. They are connected by what appears to be a sleeve on the top, right hand side, (facing the engine from the front). There must be a simple way. I'm replacing the water pump and the fan clutch and am going to send the radiator to a shop to be flushed. Please help.
You don't need to knock out the tabs. The problem is that the condenser connector is fit through the holding bracket and that locks the two pieces together. First, remove the bolts holding the shield in place and push it out of the way. Take out the two bolts on each side. The lower one on the RHS (drivers side) is into the lower tab. There is a tab on the lower left that pops out and allows the LHS to separate. Then, move the radiator as far to the right as possible. On the bottom right, there is a small tab that fits into the radiator tank ridges. pry that out and push it to the front of the car. Now, take a long punch, rod or screwdriver and drive the upper tab out toward the center of the radiator. Do the same with the middle tab. This separates the radiator from the AC condenser. You can put it back together like it was, but I cut about an inch out of the front side of that bracket so that the AC connector can be pushed through it. I had to take it out a second time and was very happy about that modification. This is a poor design and the slot cut really helps.
Both solutions really helped. However, the tabs are so tight, I'm afraid of breaking them but I guess its the only way. This is rediculous. Anything to make the dealership and mechanics more oney. They wanted $600 to replace what I should be able to do for $180 at the max. Thanks so much. It took me a very long time to find this site.
I replaced the radiator in my '97 Explorer and had to break the mounting tabs on the driver's side to separate the two parts. Ford installs both parts as one unit to cut production costs and passes the pain along to the repairman. If you're reinstalling the same radiator then I don't know how to do that without breaking it.
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Most likely you have air trapped in your engine, particularly in the heater loop. You need to properly bleed the air out of your radiator cooling system. The hot and cold blasts of air coming from first hot water followed by air.
Read up on how to bleed air out of your radiator system. Some systems are very difficult to bleed.
If after doing a good bleed of the radiator system the problem returns, you may have a bad head gasket or other leak in your cooling system which is injecting air into the cooling system (radiator/water cooling system).
make sure the engine is fully warmed up (check the temp gauge and feel the top hose from the radiator to the engine) that hose should be HOT and it you should NOT be able to calopse it-it should feel hard. If you do not have a leak under these conditions, you probably just have an overfull surge tank and it 'puked' out some fluid. If you top radiator hose is NOT hard after the engine is fully warmed up, you have something wrong-it could be as simple as a radiator cap that is not sealing properly, or a leaky hose, an intake manifold leak, or an internal leak in the engine (don't rule out a leaking radiator, it has end tanks that can and do leak).
Are you just refilling the coolant resevoir, or also adding antifreeze/water mix to the radiator itself?
When the engine is cool, remove the radiator cap and add antifreeze/water mix until the radiator is full. Leave the radiator cap off and leave the hood up and start the engine and let it idle. As the engine warms up the thermostat should open up around 180 degrees and allow the water to circulate in the radiator. If you see no movement of the water and the heat continues to rise to an unsafe temperature, your thermostat is stuck and needs replacement
Drain the coolant from your Explorer into an adequate
container by opening the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Save
the coolant for reuse if it is relatively new and clean.
Remove the negative battery cable from the battery if your
Explorer has a 2.9-, 3.0-, 4.0- or 5.0-liter engine. This step is not
necessary for 2.3- and 2.5-liter engines.
Follow the upper radiator hose to the front driver's side of
the intake manifold, where it meets the engine. This is where the
thermostat housing on your Ford Explorer is located. If necessary,
remove the air cleaner duct for easy access to the housing.
Loosen the clip on the end of the radiator hose and pull the
hose off the thermostat housing. Use a 10mm wrench or socket to remove
the two retaining bolts on the thermostat housing cover. Remove the
Note the position of the thermostat before removal. Pull out
the old thermostat. Seat the new thermostat inside the housing in the
same position as the old one, spring-side facing into the engine.
Install new gasket over the thermostat.
Reattach the thermostat housing cover and the radiator hose.
Reinstall the air cleaner duct if removed earlier. Fill the radiator
with reserve or new coolant. Start your Explorer and run with the heater
blowing until the engine gets warm. Check for leaks.
if you replaced the core then there is no way the temperature blender flap is stuck open? it is possible that you have a big air bubble in the core and there is nothing circulating in it? it does sit higher than the engine, if so burp it out. did you happen to video the core removal/install process and put it on youtube?
You probably have air in the system. Take off the radiator cap and start the engine. Turn the heater on hot. Let it warm up and fill the radiator as the level drops. Make sure the thermostat opens and coolant is flowing in the radiator. Continue to add coolant until the level stops dropping. Also check for any bleed ports on the hoses or housings where they attach. If you see any bleed ports, crack them open and let any air out. Put the cap back on and see if the heater is working. If this doesn't work, please get back to me.
With cool engine... open radiator cap and look inside radiator. Do you see lots of sediment and calcium growth on radiater tubes? If yes, a coring may be needed. If only slightly bad, a radiator flush may be needed... then refill with 50 percent antifreeze.
Good thermostat, cleaned cooling system, non-leaking water pump, good water flow via water pump... nothing else left (unless you put the thermostate in backwards)..