Fisher & Paykel ActiveSmart 517L Top Freezer E521TRX3 control panel lights blinking

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW612 Top Loading Washing

Hi there
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.

first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.

Nick

Charles T Nevin

• 4070 Answers
• Posted on Oct 28, 2009

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel N500B fridge freezer. Freezer not freezing

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

SOURCE: I have a Fisher Paykel dishwasher with water in top drawer

You need a Air gap kit designed by Fisher and Paykel to address this problem. It is pricey but it is worthy. I used this and very happy with it since no back flow problem from one while other running. Here is a link to order it.http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/

SOURCE: what is error code 136 on a fisher & paykel IW...

136 fault is 'motor stall'...Quite often this is a broken wire to the motor. However it could also be a Motor fault, or Rotary Position Sensor problem. Water damage can cause this fault as well. After a visual check for broken wires or water damage, and if your machine is in good condition, you should consider a tech....Good luck...Nomess

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel GW612 - Lights showing

Hi just read your posting.The fault on your machine is called Single Rotor Position Sensor Error.The rotor sensor is attached to your motor which is located underneath the machine.Now the Error Code will come up on your machine because 1--The wiring to the Rotor Sensor is faulty. 2-- The rotor sensor itself is faulty or 3--- The motor controller, 'which is located under the top panel is faulty.Unfortunately to test the rotor sensor you need an RPS tester .This device will also check the wiring to the rotor sensor.If you have an electrical test meter I can guide you throe the testing of the wires to the rotor sensor but without the RPS tester you cant accurately test the rotor sensor.Some service techs I know just change the rotor sensor to see if that rectifies the fault but in your case you dont have a rotor sensor so even if you do purchase one and change it, the fault could be your Motor Controller.My best advice to you would be to borrow an electrical test meter if you do not have one and reply back and I can help you eliminate the Wiring as the cause of the fault,and then contact a service tech to find out if the fault is with the Rotor Sensor or the Motor Controller.But if the fault is with the wiring then I can guide you throe step by step to repair it.I hope this helps and please reply on how you got on or if you need further assistance.Good luck.