I have a punch p450.4 amp and I was driving and the my music stopped. I saw that the protct light was on and when I restarted the car the power light was on but just cracky sound. When turned up, the amp goes into protect mode. I removed the stereo a pioneer avic d3 everything was good. I unhooked one rca, it touched nothing, sound came back, and then the amp blew the fuses. now, with the correct fuses replaced everytime the amp goes to power up it blows both fuses. I am thinking it has an internal short?
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The amplifier probably has shorted output transistors.
Disconnect the speakers and RCA cables. Replace the fuses with two 10 amp fuses or a single 20 amp fuse. If the amp blows the fuse when it powers up, the outputs are almost certainly the problem. Don't try it with the two 30 amp fuses. The smaller fuses will provide more protection for the power supply. If the amp powers up with the smaller fuses and they don't blow, check the speakers and the wiring (for shorts to ground or shorts between wires).
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Here is an idea, when do you blow the fuse key on, key on engine running, key on engine running hitting the break pedal? Try and get the key on without blowing fuse if possible, then one at a time try those circuit loads ie: horn, brake pedal and so on, if you isolate which load is pulling to many amps(blowing fuse) unplug that load itself, then restart testing, see if fuse stays ok. You can also substitue the fuse with a circuit breaker and unplug each load until click(of breaker) stops.
Is it the correct size fuse ? Is it the power fuse or remote ? Either way check your connections going into the amp . Try this hook your other amp to the set of wires for the rockford if that amp has a problem its a wireing problem if not chances are its an interal problem on the rockford . Hope this helps !
well if the amp works with the car off and when you start it the fuse blows then you may have alternator issues use a volt meter to check battery voltage is not above 14.5 volts
if the fuse blows when the amp turns on then most likely you have a shorted output section in the amp.
Short inside one of the transistors. This requires very good soldring skills and electrical know-how, and some thermal paste to go between the heat-sink and the transistor. Unfortunatly this is not a cheap repair, probably cost around 100 dollars.
well, hopefully the amplifier was wired correctly. But either way there are so many factors that can cause this problem... But the biggest one is the amplifier must have been sending some distortion to your subwoofers which a subwoofer can take a certain level of distortion and be fine but too much will blow any subwoofer even the highest of high end subs at a high volume... when your subs hit the point of blowing they will tend to just blow out one at a time... they don't just pop both right away. I'd say get the sub that isn't blown off off of the amp before it blows too... distortion is clipping most of the time... when you destroy the subs it will eventually work it's way to the next component in the system which is your amp and then you will be out an amplifier and subs. save yourself the headache.......
I used to have one of those amps also (nice amp btw) Did you try another fuse of the same size?
Is it blowing fuses everytime you put one in or did it just blow that one fuse ?
Is the conection on the battery solid and clean of corrosion build up? Because that is a good amp and if wired properly shouldnt blow out or anything and so if the speaker is not blown then maybe connection is weak somewhere? I would try disconnecting the speakers from it and try a new fuse and if it does not blow the new fuse than amp is ok? and if it does blow the new fuse right away then there must be a short somewhere in the wire or the amp. then disconnect the fuse again and reconnect the speakers and if the fuse blows with the speakers connected but doesnt blow with them disconnected then you know it is a blown speaker causing the problem.
Just currious but what size fuse do you have connected at the battery?