At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The ignition timing is controled by the flywheel in relation to the core of the ignition unit and the key way in the crankshaft, so if the key in the flywheel has Shepard then the saw will kick back, if the key is ok then you can increase the air gap between the coil and the flywheel magnets to 0.5 mm, this may help.
Remove cover again (with pull start assembly). Check that pull start is free to turn. Check that motor is free to turn.
Most likely cause is that the coil is too close to the flywheel (can be caused by magnets sticking to the coil core). Fix for this is to loosen the coil fixings /screws /bolts, turn flywheel so magnets are away from coil, use thin card or plastic to space coil about 0.5 mm from flywheel and carefully re-tighten the coil fixings. Check that fixings are tightening up properly (no stripped threads, or the magnets will pull the coil against the flywheel).
Reassemble, checking that motor turns freely at each step as you do so.
Was it a genuine Honda ignition unit? as i have had bad after market units, check the air gap between the flywheel and the unit this should be around 0.3 mm, finally remove the cutout wire completely from the coil and try for a spark again.
I cant seem to get your model number to work for me but under Rover push mowers it looks like they use Briggs and Stratton engines so if true Air Gap: 0.203/0.305 mm (0.008/0.012 in.) The way I do it is fold a piece of printer paper one inch folds four thickness, wrap around flywheel, roll the flywheel around so the magnet is pulling the coil up tight to the flywheel,the four thickness of the printer paper is your air gap, then tighten the screws . Pull on the paper as you rotate the flywheel to remove it. Dont forget to check that the little wire is plugged in other wise it wont shut off. Replace the spark plug and spark plug boot/wire as well as the flywheel cover and it should start up.
The points are under the left engine cover behind
the flywheel. You can just see them through the
flywheel holes. They should be flat and clean.
When the (F) lines on the flywheel and engine case align
the points should just break open. This is when the piston
is about 2 mm from the top of the cylinder. If the points
won't open to about .014" total then they need replacement.
You will need a flywheel puller for that.
Once you remove the recoil starter and the engine cover remove three bolts holding the starter cup. Loosen and remove the main flywheel nut.
Now using a harmonic balancer puller thread three equal length bolts through the puller slots into where the starter cup bolts were. Now tighten up the puller's center bolt to put tension on the flywheel. Once good tension is on the setup take a brass hammer and tap the center bolt of the puller. This should loosen the flywheel. You may need to retension the puller a time or two to get the flywheel to break free.
Air gap on the ignition module should be .152 mm. The thickness of a clean, dry business card is close enough. Loosen the module, place a card between the module and the magnet of the flywheel. Allow the module to stick to the flywheel through the card. Tighten the module, then turn the flywheel slowly to remove the card.
Good luck!
check what they call air gap between the coil and flywheel .010-.012 gap
also be sure your flywheel is in time.
you will actually have to remove it to do this and check for the sheared key or be sure the key way aligns with the crankshaft keyway on the flywheel
there is no timing spec . the air gap is .010 to .012. or .254 mm to .305 mm.open the gap all the way up and tighten the screws.bring the flywheel magent to the coil making sure that both sides of the coil is on the magnet.slide the gapping tool in and the magent will hold it in place.once it's there release the screws holding the coil and the magents wiil pull the coil to it.once it's there retighten the screws and your done.
×