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I have a Manitowoc QY-0214A, it starts the ice making phase and will run that for around 5 minutes. The water then stops running and the ice tray starts to heat up. Any suggestions?

Posted by Michael McKenna on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 625 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer runs for 5 minutes then stops

look in the vent line for a small disk shaped overload with two wires coming out of it. it may be bad. also check for a lint build-up in the exhaust line out of the blower. check the damper outlet going out of the house for a build-up of lint.

Posted on Aug 21, 2007

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0duro

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Sub-Zero Under Counter Ice Maker not making Ice

ice stat defective
hot gas solenoid vavle defective
pls post make /model.
if ignis / whirlpool then above points should the trick.

lastly reclaim gas replace both driers recharge with fresh gas to spec( liquid by weight).

Posted on Feb 26, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE DRYER

Hello ENRIGHT11 Welcome to Fixya
My name is Huum,


You said,
DRYER MAKES VERY LOUD NOISE WHEN RUNNING. ALTHOUGH IT HEATS UP AND BEGINS TO DRY, IT STOPS RUNNING COMPLETELY AFTER ABOUT 5 MINUTES. IF YOU WAIT AN HOUR, YOU CAN START IT AGAIN, BUT IT AGAIN SOUNDS VERY LOUD (ALMOST A RATTLING SOUND) AND THEN SHUTS OFF AFTER 5 MINUTES

Faulty Blower Wheel

If you hear a great deal of noise coming from the blower area of the dryer when it is running, then the blower wheel could be defective.

The are many different designs for blower wheels and just as many unique failure modes. Vanes (fins) can break off the wheel and bounce around in the blower breaking more pieces. The blower can break around the coupler with the shaft. This can cause the blower to spin loosely on the shaft. The blower can form cracks which cause it to vibrate, etc.

You should also not be surprised to find foreign debris in the blower. The occasional bird, rodent or squirrel has been known to bypass the out vent cover. If they crawl into the exhaust tube the first thing they come into contact with is the blower wheel.

If the blower wheel is not spinning, or if it is missing vanes, it is not moving air efficiently. As a result, heat is not removed from the heat source and it can trip the high limit switch or blow the thermal cut-off.
Worn Belt
A worn belt can stretch and/or become brittle with age. The belt can then slip on the drum or motor to cause squeaking. If this is the case, the solution is to replace the worn belt.

The belt is not the only item that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum bearings, worn drum glides or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the Belt is is a good idea to also change the Drum Support Rollers, Drum Glides, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical easily changeable when replacing the belt. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.
Worn Drum Glides
Some dryer models are equipped with Drum Glides. The front of the dryer rests on these glides. They provide a low friction surface on which the drum spins. After time however, this glides wear down. Much like an automobile brakes, these glides make a load grinding noise when they wear thin. This griding against the drum usually leaves a bare metal stripe that is visible at the point of contact. If the glides are worn, the solution is to replace them.

The drum glides not the only items that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum bearings, a worn belt or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the Drum Glides it is a good idea to also change the Drum Support Rollers, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the glides. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Worn Rear Drum Bearing
Some dryer models are equiped with a Rear Drum Bearing. The rear of the drum rests on this bearing. It provides a low friction surface on which the drum spins. After time however, this bearing will wear down. If the bearing is worn, the solution is to replace it.

The rear drum bearing not the only item that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum glides, a worn belt or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the rear drum bearing it is a good idea to also change the drum glides, drum support rollers, drum belt, idler pulley and clips depending on make and model. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the rear drum bearing. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Worn Drum Support Rollers
Some dryers such as Whirlpool/Kenmore brands are equipped with Rear Drum Support Rollers. The weight of the dryer drum rests on these rollers. They provide a low friction surface on which the drum spins when in operation. After time however, these rollers wear down. When they wear, often times they begin to elongate and form a non-round 'cam' shape. The result is that when the dryer is turned on it creates a rumble that sounds as though you are trying to dry a pair of tennis shoes. This sound is usually the drum being forced up and down on the non-round wheels. If the rollers are worn, the solution is to replace them.


When replacing the Drum Rollers it is a good idea to also change the Front Drum Glides, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the glides. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new. Whirlpool
Kenmore models have a dryer maintenance kit that contains all of these items in a single kit.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


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Posted on Jan 23, 2009

Joe Hogan

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker not working

If your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, check these, in this order:

  • It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these:

    • If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire.

    • If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire.

    In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.

  • The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary.

  • The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it.

Posted on May 30, 2009

Rich Landrum

  • 4736 Answers

SOURCE: On my electralog heater, after

From what you have described. it sound like the heating element is overheat and the automatic over heating sensor is shut it down. One of the primary reason these heaters overheat is that the become clogged with dust, lint & pet hair. Cleaning the heating element. may solve your problem. A vacuum cleaner (especially a Shop Vac) that has a hose, a brush attachment and a crevice tool, works well well in cleaning the heating element. Be sure the unit is OFF and unplugged, before attempting any cleaning.

Hope this helps you solve the problem.

Posted on May 19, 2011

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1 Answer

Manitowoc QY0214A starts up and in about 1 min. goes into heating cycle. What's my problem


The ice thickness probe is a plastic and metal piece hanging from the water distribution area at the top of the ice making plate. It is probably touching or really close to touching the plate. It should be about 1'4" - 5/16" from the plate. It is adjusted by turning the screw located on the top of the sensor facing out at you. turn it clockwise to thicken the ice. the ice should come off in one large piece linked together by a roughly 1/4" sheet across the front. You can get a 1/4" drill bit and lay it on the plate behind the metal tip of the sensing probe and use it as a feeler gauge. Turn the screw until the probe just makes contact with the bit. Remove the bit and try again.

Sep 17, 2014 | Manitowoc QY-0214A Self Contained Ice...

1 Answer

Make ice thenfull shuts off anddoes not come on ice starts melting


The bin thermostat or door switch is sticking. If it is an adjustable thermostat turn it clockwise a quarter turn.

Jun 24, 2014 | Manitowoc QY-0214A Self Contained Ice...

1 Answer

Starts into ice making then dumps ice slurry in tray


Adjust the ice thickness sensor out 1/4 turn at a time until 3mm ice bridge forms between cubes. Clean condenser thoroughly, descale ansd sanitise waterways inside.

Jan 30, 2014 | Manitowoc QY-0214A Self Contained Ice...

1 Answer

Ice machine on and appears to be running, but no water is circulating. Tried turning on and off, still no water. Anyone had this problem before?


the water inlet valve has a screen in it to stop lime and particles from entering. this tends to get clogged up, thus restricting water flow. disconnect the water line to the machine and check inside the valve opening. if it's clear and the problem persists, the solenoid coil on the valve may be burned out. you can check it with a contenuity tester (usually on a volt meter) by unplugging the wires from the coil and testing it through the terminals. if there is continuity, the coil is good. if not, replace the valve assembly.

Jan 19, 2014 | Manitowoc QY-0214A Self Contained Ice...

1 Answer

It will not stay in harvest cycle long enough to make ice before it goes into defrost


First it has to go through freeze cycle then harvest cycle to drop ice then back to freeze cycle. If you have never worked on ice machines before you should call a service company.

Aug 16, 2013 | Manitowoc QY-0214A Self Contained Ice...

1 Answer

Makes ice for 3 cycles then stops running.Can turn off then on again to make more ice for a couple more cycles.


check the cycle time for a batch of ice. should take around 15 minutes to freeze and then you will hear the harvest cycle kick in. If the harvest cycle takes 3 minutes or more that is your problem. You will need to get a hold of NICKEL SAFE ICE MACHINE CLEANER. DO NOT use CLR or any kind of cleaner other than NICKEL SAFE ICE MACHINE CLEANER. If the ice doesn't fall off of the plate in about 90 seconds either the plate is dirty or the nickel plating has come off. There is a failsafe shut down if the unit takes more than 60 minutes to freeze or more than 3 minutes to harvest 3 consecutive times. The cleaning instructions should be inside of one of the covers. If not it's available online.

Aug 15, 2013 | Manitowoc QY-0214A Self Contained Ice...

1 Answer

I bought a used QY_DUAL4C ice machine with remote condenser, but the condenser is 3 phase, and the building is single phase wiring. What can I do?


you'll either need to have the electric company run a three-phase line, or install an electric converter (aka inverter) to make single phase act like 3

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I HAVE AN MANITOWOC Q SERIES CVD 2075 UNIT RUNS FOR 30 MINUTES AND ONE OF THE DUAL FANS CUTS OUT CAUSING INSULATION TO BURN OF HOT GAS LINE PLZ HELP


Sounds like a bad headmaster valve, bad fan motor, or bad pressure cycling switch for the fan motor. Will need to know operating pressures to troubleshoot. Not really a DIY job unless you have some experience.

Sep 29, 2010 | Manitowoc MAN-CVD2075 Condenser Unit...

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