Need tweeter cups to hold tweeter

Hi, The hole that was cut for the tweeter is holding the magnet. It was tight going in. And hard to get out. Take a flat screwdriver and pry up one of the edges a little. Then go to opposite side and pry up a little bit. You may need to put something in the gap of the first side you pry up so it doesn't go back in. Once you have both sides up a little bit. You should be able to grab ahold of it with your fingers and remove it. May have to move it back and forth .

You will need to determine if it's the amplifiers or the tweeter themselves that are not working. If you open up the cabinets and check each tweeter with an ohm meter for continuity it will show if the tweeters are working, in which case the amp is the problem. if the meter shows that the tweeters are blown, you should still hook up another tweeter or speaker to the horn amp to see if it's blown and therefor took out the tweeters.
If any of this sounds complicated, you'd be best off taking the cabinets to the repair shop.

Check the tweeter with ohm meter.
There should be screws holding tweeter in place. Touch around the edge of the tweeter for soft area. Screws may be below lable ring which is glued on.

In the most general, basic sense, I would be assuming that this is just one speaker and not 2 with this problem, or 3 or more.
Only way to get the ball rolling is pull the tweeter from the cabinet, checking to make sure all wires are connected at the tweeter and inside the speaker.
If that is the case, then you would need to determine if this is the tweeters fault, or its crossover (thing that divides the sound into whats right for the woofer and what the tweeter wants).
If you have a multi-meter, you would disconnect the wires from the tweeter, set the meter to ohms and touch a probe to each speaker terminal. No action means burned out tweeter, 100% action means burned out tweeter, a reading slightly less than the rating on the back of the tweeter (for instance an 8 ohm tweeter would show anywhere from 6 to 8 ohms on the meter) means tweeter is good.
If you have no meter then take the tweeter from the good speaker and swap in place of the bad one, making sure you respect + and - connections.Its a little risky this way,since if there is something wrong in the speaker it may hurt the good tweeter..(the meter is the safer bet). If it works, then you need a replacement tweeter, if not the problem is either wire connections inside the speaker, or something is wrong with the crossover.

After removing the back cover disconnect the tweeter cable form the terminal. Then hold the tweeter magnet and turn it anti clock wise. The driver unit will unscrew and come of the horn assembly.
Keep the driver unit on a firm table and unscrew the four + screws. It has a sandwich assembly which will part into two if you put a sharp knife and twist. You will see the tweeter diaphragm which can be lifted up again by using a sharp knife. The replacement diaphragm is available from the below given address
http://reconekits.com/tapcothumpth-15ahorndiaphragmpn0013252-1.aspx

The crossovers in professional speakers don't fail that easily. It could be a blown tweeter. To confirm remove the metal grille-- remove the screws of the Horn Tweeter -- remove the cable connectors on the tweeter terminals ( Red and Black wire ). Now if you have a multimeter put it in Ohms range and touch the probes on the tweeter terminals-- It should show a reading betwwen 4 to 8 Ohms depending what is written on the back of the tweeter magnet. If you do not have a Multimeter you can take an ordinary cell/battery ( 1.5v ) from a TV remote and touch the terminals of the Horn Tweeter with the battery. + to the tweeter + ( a small red dot or mark will be there on the tweeter ) and -- to the tweeter -- . When you touch the terminals or give 1.5 volt supply the tweeter will make a scratching noise.
If you do not hear the scratching noise - it indicates a blown tweeter coil and will need replacement.See link below for spares:-
http://legacysoundservice.com/catalog1/product_info.php?products_id=1417
But if it does, you are in trouble and will need professional help from a electronic technician.
Could be blown HF Amplifier, suspect the crossover last. They seldom fail.
Revert back for more help

The tweeters are under the trim panel closest to the windshield. A flat-blade screwdriver can be used to gently pry this panel up. This panel also houses the sensor for the automatic lights so just pry it upwards and let the windshield pillar trim hold it upright. Each tweeter is held in by three 7mm bolts. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 7mm socket to remove these. Unclip the speaker wire connector and you're good to go. I'm in the same boat as you on the replacement, as I haven't found any yet, but I'm certain that a local stereo shop will hook me up with what I need.

the best solution I've found is this:
1. Remove all the tweeter screws.
2. Take a thing metal rod (a coat hanger should work) and lightly tap the tweeter through the top port in the rear until it is loosened and comes out. The tweeter is totally sealed so you probably won't damage it if you need to do this to a working tweeter.

This method also works for the woofer but you need to be very careful to tap the frame or magnet of the woofer and not the cone.

Remove the six hex screws from the plastic front speaker housing. It\'s the piece with the speaker\'s make and model imprinted.

Gently pry the cover off. The blue LED light can be easily freed by gently prying it loose from the back of the plastic housing. You\'ll notice the two wires connecting your tweeter. Don\'t pull too hard on the cover while the tweeter is still attached to prevent detaching the wires. Instead, take very short, stubby Phillips head screwdriver and remove the two screws holding the small plastic brace against the back of the tweeter. It\'s a tight fit. Don\'t pull too hard on the wires! Next, push the tweeter out from the front, touching only the extreme outer rim. Or, use needlenosed pliers to grip the heat sink on the back of the tweeter and gently pull from the back. The tweeter has a very powerful magnet. Find a small but robust rectangle made of ferrous metal. Large enough to span the front diameter of the tweeter. When the speaker magnet grabs the little metal plate, adjust the plate until the buzzing stops. This means of course that you have to turn the power to the speaker on.

I found that they can hold up to 6 1/2" speakers and 2" tweeters. I'm not sure the specific mounting depth but i can almost assure you there wont be any 6 1/2" speakers that require a whole lotta space