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Most self stopping kettles have a bi-metal piece, generally in the handle or top part, which, when boiling, gets one side of the metal to expand more than the other, causing it to bend and mechanically turn off the switch.
There are many causes that it can stop working- iron fatigue, corrosion, jammed switch etc that can make it stop working. In general, it <strong>wouldn't</strong> be financially worthwhile to repair it, however many people still use them when they stay in the room, since they still do a decent job of boiling the water quickly. Typically they have a safety, so the thermo-fuse will shut it before a fire starts- on your own risk.
It's usually not so expensive to get a new one, so I'd go for using it temporarily til I get around to getting a new one!
In case you are still watching this issue for a solution - I'm afraid my assessment of the company troubleshooting support and of this particular issue is that we are out of luck. I have the same problem. Have downloaded manuals - very little information except for use...ie, don't get them wet. I have contacted the company - they asked me for the same information I gave them in the original troubleshooting request... We bought a new one - fortunately on sale at Target. The blinking light is the normal indication - lack of heat and boiling is the problem. Our new pot boils on both bases...old pot clicks and then just sits there with a blinking light - the light should blink until the temp is reached.
I intend to return the old pot to Target and move on....I suspect there is a burned out coil but, it is too hard to troubleshoot and won't be able to be fixed.
I suspect that a better (more expensive) pot might have more durable coils...but, we'll see how long the new one lasts.
sounds as if you have a lose wire in the base or else you element has failed. Undo the bottom of the kettle and check all wires are connected to the element. If all the wires are connect i would say your element has blown.
The coils of Russel Hobbs outrun the shell jar for sure as the corrosion in the kettle would have caused the leak.
The best can be to get the kettle welded with metal, use gas welding to mend up the leak and use a good grinding tool to polish off the suface.
Wash and clean/scrub well to remove all flux /dirt before you use it.
Boil water three times to discard before you use it.
You can continue to use the Hobbs.
I think you would only solve this problem by cleaning the thermostat contacts, or replacing the thermostat which wouldn't be worthwhile as it's likely to be cheaper to buy a new kettle. Besides this , just getting into the kettle needs special 3 tongue screwdriver and then a certain technique to open it up without damaging the plastic parts. Im'e afraid its a throw-away world now and its not good .
I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out
before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from
Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell
tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being
open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also
has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle
after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the
element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They
protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element
temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case
where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these
are the likely culprit. In my kettle the contacts did not line up
correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially
overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings
from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance
and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the
surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element
behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out
of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal
switch. I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused
into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it
will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal
switch. I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!
Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.
I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit. In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch. I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch. I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!
What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.
Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.
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