My water heater is a "Marey" propane and the water won't get hot and it keeps saying "E2" I lost my manual so I can't see what that means. Do you know?

SOURCE: I dont know what ECO failure means or how to fix it.

This water heater is equipped with a control which has a built inE.C.O. (Energy Cut-Off). The E.C.O. will shut the gas off,
should the outlet water temperature exceed 200 F. If the
E.C.O. has tripped, the entire gas control must be replaced.
For gas control replacement, contact your local gas utility, or a
qualified service technician. The replacement control must be
an identical model to the control which has been removed.

SOURCE: Hot Water Heater in 1991 Pace Arrow RV is not working

If you look on the outside of the RV, you will find the vent for the water heater behind and access door. There usually is a drain plug and valve located as well. Generally they will be tucked away under the kitchen sink area with internal access as well. You will need to find where the valve that shuts the water off to the unit is and turn it on. Most times the water heater is either electric or propane. But sometimes they are only propane. Once your find the access door, you will know where the water heater is. You can also contact Fleetwood who makes the Pace Arrow to see if they have any information on your unit. Usually your unit info or trim number will be located on a little plaque right by the entrance to the RV. You will need this when you contact them. Hope this helps.

SOURCE: takes too long for hot water.

You need a recirculating line. You will have to hire a plumber to run a water line from the farthest fixture or to the fixture you are concerned about on the hot side and return it back to the water heater. this will cause hot water to constantly run throught the hot water line (via the recirculating line) and when you want to draw water from the fixture, you will already have hot water right at the line.
I know this works with standard tank water heaters, but it is a lil trickier with rinnai units(but very possible) if your plumber pleads the 5th and tries to sell you another unit call the Rinnai manufacturerand ask them how.

SOURCE: Exterior mounted Rinnai tankless water heater not

What is the outside temperature? If it it is below freezing, you might have a frozen pipe. Using a plumber torch heat up the pipe, if it works, replace the insulation using a heavier layer.

Kelly

• 3740 Answers
• Posted on Feb 14, 2011

SOURCE: The water heater red light

There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly