Question about Pitco Frialator Kitchen Appliances - Others
Posted by John Purnell on
SOURCE: want to convert pitco frialator model 14 from gas to propane
I agree - What everyone fails to tell you about conversion from Natural Gas to Propane -
1 - Take your time -
2 - The parts you get may be to many
3 - If you are going to use the unitl out-side - Wind is not your friend -
4 - While 20lb tanks will work - 60lb tanks are the best
I have found that only 70% of the gas in a 20lb tank will be used - the Amount of preasure / volumne decreases as the tank gets empty - a gas grill will empty a tank - a Deep Fryer (I have a Pitco 14 and 35c) will not - therefore, 60lb tanks
5 - Also, a 3/8 hose and connections will work, but 1/2 hose and connection work better - especially with a 60lb tank
6 - Find a good welder supply store to work with to get the hoses and adapters - Stay away from Lowes, Home Depot and other Box Stores - They are ok for most things, but not this project - Pay the extra money for the right stuff.
1 - Have 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2 wrenches - Open and Box style
2 - A very good philips and slotted screw-driver
3 - Remove the Front Door and Front Panel
4 - Remove the Burners - Be careful - they are heavy and if dropped, they do crack
5 - The orfices for the burners are simple to change
6 - The Gas Regulator on the Control valve is simple - not easy to get to, but simpe to change - and make sure it is tight, (so it does not leak) but not to tight - it can craxk
7 - The silver thimbel - it is a atomizier for the pilot - is also easy to replace, but hard to get to - don't bend the gas tube to much and be carefull removing the old one - it is jamed into the pilot
8 - Wind - IS NOT YOUR FRIEND - If outside, you need to cover the left, back and right side from wind - it will push the gas out of the burner (at the orfice) and into the cabinet and it will "POP" with gas - the orfices will have little flames on them - very yellow and very bad -
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
SOURCE: my pitco frialator chips fryer diplaying CFG error
CFG error on controller board can be cleared by resetting the controller back to factory setting and by doing this, all program added after the factory setting will be erased so you have to reprogram them again.
Programming guides are downloadable at PITCO site on http://www.middleby.com
Posted on Jun 06, 2011
SOURCE: pitco fryer
Try removing the oil and boil out the fry tank.
Fryer cleaning manual is downloadable on PITCO site at http://www.middleby.com
Posted on Jun 06, 2011
SOURCE: What are most common problems found with pitco
Some of the most common problems with Pitco fryers is failed Hi-Limit thermostats, carbon build up on burner tubes, and dirty or clogged burners. This hi-limit thermostat is mounted inside the fry tank on one of the burners. Often the cappillary tubes are damaged or broken during cleaning causing the limit to fail. The hi-limit is the most common part I replace on Pitco fryers. The other common items are self explanitory. Keep the fryer clean in all areas, including burners and tubes. You will see the repair man less often.
Posted on Jul 04, 2011
SOURCE: my brinkmann turkey fryer doesnt get up to boiling temp
Hi Larry, W/D here. Just got your question so I'm a bit late in getting back to you......
The amount of heat delivered at the burner is dependent on a number of things, and we'll take them in the order of most likely:
1st, The gas tip must be clear. It's possible for critters to build nests in the gas delivery piping that can plug either the gas delivery port or the air side of the mixing venturi; both will give you a reduction in BTU's. Compressed air can be used to blow out the air side of the venturi. The orifice for tha gas can be cleaned with a thin wire, or use a tip cleaner, available at a welding supply store. These are inexpensive.
2nd, The burner proper can become plugged at the ports where the mixed gas/air combusts. These can be cleaned with a small drill bit,sized to the holes, and just passed back and forth to clean them out. Compressed air works well to remove any particles remaining.
3rd, The regulator may be defective. If this is the case, you'll need to replace it as it contains no user serviceable parts.
4th, the in-line regulating valve may be sticking in the partially open position. This is difficult to diagnose, however, and is more of an assumption, after all other causes are eliminated. The cure for this is replacement also.
Hope that this was helpful to you.
Best regards, --W/D--
Posted on Nov 04, 2011
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