Kenmore Elite dryer model number 592-89003 01 starts and runs on auto dry or timed and shuts off at 3 minutes without completing cycle and says cycle complete, no error code and no heat.

Probably the Moisture Sensor Bar has failed.

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=11085087400%20kenmore%20elite%20he4

https://www.google.com/search?q=kenmore+elite+he4+smartheat+dryer+not+working+on+auto


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most likely the board is bad,the board is big money,just keep using it on auto,that's what you should be using anyway the dryer automatically stops when the clothes are dry,say you set your clothes for 60 minutes and they dry in 40,you're drying the clothes 20 more minutes that you didn't need,if you set it on auto the dryer sensor knows the clothes are dry and shuts it down when they are dry,this doesn't have a timer this has a computer board or it could be the touch pad not working correctly if it doesn't take commands but either part is expensive the board is like 200 and the touch pad is close to 300 bucks,i would use it on auto,one more thing to check is sometimes the ribbon or plug that connects the touch pad to the board could be loose or have some lint or something in it,i've just unplugged them and plugged them back in and then it works,also clean out all the lint out of the dryer and vent line,this is the number one cause of most problems in dryers and you won't have to worry about a dryer fire,if it's gas you should do this once a year yours is electric so you can wait like every 18 months with gas you have a flame in there so you don't want lint in or around the flame,clean out the duct that the lint filter slides down into and i use a leaf blower to blow out the vent line just take it off the dryer stick the leaf blower int the line and blow it to the outside when you have the dryer running go back outside and make sure the air is blowing out good

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Dryer has a moisture sensor that detects the clothes are dry so it shuts off earlier. If the clothes are still damp then the dryer vent may be plugged and causing the unit to run hot or not able to fully evacuate the air from the machine. Clean the vent and make sure it's completely free and try again. If it short cycles again and clothes still damp you may have a sensor controller issue.

that model number doesn't come up,you sure that isn't the serial number?also does the dryer have heat,when you run it on time dry the timer just counts down like a clock,when on auto or more or less the heat comes on until the dryer heats to temp. the heat shuts off and the timer will advance,when the heat comes back on the timer stops moving,it will do this until the clothes are dry,if you do have heat you could have a bad sensor or a bad cycling thermostat but you'll have to check it with a meter.send the model number and i can help you better.

How old is your dryer?

if it works on auto but not on time you have a bad timer,it's not counting down,it's better to use auto anyway,when the clothes dry the dryer shuts off on it's own,this way your not using extra electricity,if your clothes dry in 30 minutes and it's on 60 minutes it will still run after the clothes are dry on auto it doesn't.if you open the door and look around the opening you'll see a tag with the model number,your missing a couple of letters on the model number.

Hello, I would be curious to know if the dryer performs the same way on "timed" dry and "auto-dry", have you tried ? Here's a tip on how you can absolutely know if you have venting issues ( and I don't necessarily mean a "clogged" vent, there are other factors too ) Disconnect the vent at the rear of the dryer and run a cycle as you normally would and observe what happens. Also if it has the flex venting on it ( whether plastic or foil type ) get rid of it, personally I will not even service a customers dryer until they agree to change it when present. I'll watch for you reply in this post if I can assist you further. Good luck. macmarkus :)

you can't get any parts for this dryer the computer board is no longer available,must be old technology replace it.

if the clothes are warm after the cycle then you need to make sure the vent to the outside of the house is not plugged if they are not warm then it is in the heating circuit of the dryer wether it be the element or a fuse will have to be tested. to dry clothes it takes heat and air flow if you dont have one of the two they will not dry correctly