I have a Rockwood Amp-4080, How do I set it up in tri- mode? It has a selector switch with 2, 3, and 4 for speaker channels. How do you configure the wires for that?

Reset digital timers before programming to eliminate trace testing memories and restore full functionality

Make sure you're in correct mode fro programming: Time setting mode, with selector moved to top next to clock symbol

Compare your timer manual with Hagar manufacturer's generic manual for the 2-channel: English on page 3.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Hagar-monotron-200-2-channel-manual.pdf
http://www.credaheating.co.uk/assets/kb/operating_instructions/0/Flash_2S_Programmer_Instructions_Issue_1.pdf

Contact Creda
www.creda.heating.co.uk

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The Peavey CS4080HZ is intended to place 2,040 watts
per channel into four-Ohm-rated speaker
impedances. The "HZ" suffix is intended
to state the amplifier has a relatively high
impedance output and is optimized for no
lower than four-Ohm loads. Are you strapping in Bridged or Stereo Mode? Bridged Mono Operation
Both amplifier channels can be bridged together to make a very powerful single-channel monaural amplifier. Use
extreme caution when operating in the bridged mode; potentially lethal voltage may be present at the output
terminals. To bridge the amplifier, depress the rear panel Bridge switch to the IN position. Direct the signal to channel
A's input and connect the speakers across the hot outputs (the "+" binding posts) of channels A and B. Only channel
A's input attenuator is active while in Bridge Mono mode. Both connectors are strapped together, so either connector
can be used with a patch cable to drive the input of another amplifier.
Unlike the stereo mode, in which one side of each output is at ground, both sides are hot in bridged mode. Channel A's
side is the same polarity as its input with the minimum nominal load impedance being 4 ohms (equivalent to driving
both channels at 2 ohms) in bridged mode. Driving bridged loads of less than 4 ohms will activate the DDT
circuitry, resulting in a loss of power, and may also cause a thermal (overheating) overload.
Therefore, check the impedance of the cabs for each mode. Remember, if you connect two individual speakers in Parallel (+ to + and - to -) you cut the impedance in half. Two 8 ohm speakers in parallel now have a load of 4 ohms. Series connection + to - to + to -, will double the impedance. Two 8 ohm speakers will have a load of 16 ohms.
I have actually taken a two speaker cab with a 4 ohm impedance and opened up the back to re-do the wiring. I rechecked the impedance with a ohm meter. So yes, be careful. Whatever you do, keep the speaker lengths as short as possible. Buy really good speaker wire or if you make your own, go with 10 gauge wire.

Let's review the setup procedure and precautions. This is for bridging the amplifiers within a single box.

• The mono-stereo-bridge switch must be in bridge position
• The input signal must be connected only to Channel 1. NOTHING should be connected to Channel 2.
• The Channel 2 level control should be turned all the way down. Turning it up will amplify common-mode noise.
• The + speaker terminal is connected to the red binding post for Channel 1 and the - speaker terminal is connected to the red binding post for Channel 2. Neither side of the load should be grounded.
  
• There are no connections to the black binding posts. They should not be grounded or shorted together.

It does not seem practical to bridge or parallel two MT 1200 boxes; it would be very difficult to get the levels and offsets precisely matched. If they aren't matched, you will get oscillations or common-mode amplification - that is your humming noise.The bridging switch makes six changes to the circuitry to get the amplifiers properly interconnected in one box so this won't happen in the recommended configuration.

You CANNOT power 4 total 4 ohm speakers from this unit without special configuration. The lowest you can go is 4 ohms per side, which would be one 4 ohm cabinet per side. You would have to do a series parallel arrangement with the resources you have... two Peavey's in series and that combination in parallel with two 15's in series...
This is a VERY unsafe configuration with this mixer. ALSO please read my tip on here in regard to PMP mixer grounding hazard of the A channel when using Speakon to 1/4 inch cables.

Frankly, forget about maximum performance unless you want to risk blowing your mixer...

If I were you, I would put the two 15's in SERIES as 8 ohms on one of the channels and the Peavey's in SERIES as 8 ohms on the other channel.

You would be well to heed this warning as I have repaired a bunch of these units. Be careful of any poor speaker connections as there is an insulation breakdown problem in the power amp circuit board if a speaker becomes intermittent. If something fails DO NOT replace the pwer fuse as you will do more damage.

I am assuming you are using the standard sonamp 260 not a 260x3
and that when you say you are getting sound on only 1 pair that means only on 1 side (left or right channel only?)

Are using a speaker selector box? you must to regulate the resistance (ohms)

if so first unhook all but on pair of speakers and see if both channels are working.

if they do your problem is in the speaker selector not the amp if no then check to see what the amp level is set to. These are the two small holes on the front right of amp make sure they are set about equal at around half way up.

If that doesn't work flip the RCA cables coming to the amp perhaps you have a bad cable if that doesn't work make sure your receiver (source) is outputing a stereo signal to begin with.

lastly 8 sets of speakers off 1 amp? that's pushing it.even with a high quality Niles or speakercraft selector that controls the resistance going to an amp I wouldn't go past 5 sets.

The right way to do it would be to use 260x3 or a sonance or speakercraft 12 channel amp.

Does your amplifier have a Channel swith which says 2/3/4 channel mode. If so and you are running the amplifier in Bridged mode, try changing the setting to 2 channel or Bridged mode.

Hello william_pric,

Look on the speaker output terminals to see if there is an indication, usually a line between the positive (+) on one to the negative (-) on the other, with the word "bridged". If the bridging terminals are not indicated, you can always try one of the positives and the other negative. If there's no sound, it must be the other two terminals. Just be careful that you don't short the terminals, and don't crank the volume up without the sub connected. Some amps don't like an infinite load.

For an input to the amp from a stock OEM radio, your best solution is to use a "line out converter", connected to the rear speaker wires. The PAC SNI-45T shown in the link is one such device. This one includes a "remote turn-on" lead for the amp. You could use a cheaper LOC and just run 12V from an accessory lead on the truck. In this case, the amp will turn on and stay on whenever the ignition switch is in the "on" or "accessories" position. If this is objectionable, mount a SPST switch somewhere convenient and wire the turn-on wire through it.

Hope this helps.

Sounds like you have a bad or dirty gain potentiometer. Try turning the gain up and down with the volume at a moderate level. If u hear static, it is possible the potentiometer is bad or dirty. Replace with one of the same value and see if that solves your problem.

Hi monmax,
I hope you are aware that in bridged mode your amp will become monaural (single channel, double power). If you still wish to bridge it:
Switch of power.
Set mode switch behind amp to "bridge" position.
Connect speaker positive to CH1+ve terminal of amp output and connect speaker negative to CH2 +ve terminal.
Be aware that now, in bridged mode your amps output power delivery is 1100 watts for a 4 ohm speaker and 900 watts for an 8 ohm speaker. Make sure your speaker can handle that.
Peace
Jango.

your wall speakers may not be connected.... disconnect each speaker from the selector box and test with a small AAA battery to see if they are connected by putting the battery between each speaker's wires , you will hear it crackle ,then gradually connect each wall speaker onto the speaker connector box . If the first set does not work i suggest there may be a problem with your speaker selector box . Good luck