GE Model TFX20D not cooling!

Are you sure all of them went out? It's very unusual to lose all 3

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Heater-Assembly/67001794/1022690 is what one looks like (since you didn't give your model number - couldn't look up the one you need)

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-GTL21KBXABS/0432/0166000/G0904088/00002 It is item 58 on the diagram, but again not your exact schematic. The defrost heater is normally located very close to the coils.

But if you test your defrost heater and it is good (see video on first link on how to test) then you might have trouble with the thermistat - http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-GTL21KBXABS/0432/0166000/G0904088/00002 or the timer - http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Timer/482493/3348 and some whirlpools even have a defrost control board - http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Control-Board/W10353224/1860724

Hope this helps!

you have a defrost problem,next time send model number,there's a timer or a board in the machine that turns a heater on when the timer tells it to and it defrosts the freezer and then the timer shuts the heater off,your machine is not doing this,you have either a bad timer or adaptive defrost board,a bad thermostat or a bad heater, also when it's running and when you open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you have a bad defrost fan motor,wait till it melts out,get it running and cold, open the freezer door and you'll hear the fan blowing,find the timer and turn the middle of it with a screw driver,this will advance the timer manually into defrost,turn it slowly until you hear a click and the fan shuts off,now you're in defrost,take the back wall off,if the heater is on you have a bad timer because you had to manually put it into defrost,if it's not on you have to check the thermostat,you can look at it and if you see a buldge in it you can tell it's bad,if it looks normal cut the wires and bypass the t stat, shut off the control to the freezer to kill the power to the t stat or unplug the machine all it is is one wire goes to the t stat and the other wire comes off the t stat and goes to the heater,just connect the wire dirrectly to the heater and turn the control back on, if the heater comes on the t stat is bad,if the heater doesn't come on take the wires off the heater and read the heater out with a meter,it's not a bad idea to change the t stat and the heater,reconnect the new t stat and wire in the heater and you should be fine

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
  
  
• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
  
  

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor
  
  
• The Thermostat
  
  
• The overload, relay, or capacitor
  
  
• The defrost timer
  
  
• The condenser fan motor
  

Hi, This model has a mother board instead of a defrost timer. If you are having a defrost issue, the first part you want to test is the defrost heaters. If you need instruction on testing the defrost cycle, please let me know so I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

Sounds like the defrost timer is not tracking the time properly. The unit needs to defrost once every 6-8 hrs. in order to work. Make sure the inside (evaporator) fan is running ok. If it rund for a few days and then warms up in the refrigerator section (coil iced), then the defrost timer is the culprit.

First point: The entire fridge is cooled by the freezer section. A fan blows air across to the food section.
2) Every 8 hours or so, a timer shuts off the compressor cycle, and starts up a heater to defrost the freezer coils. If the heater(s) are burnt out, or if the safety thermostat (to prevent overheating) is open, then you will have no defrost. The coils will frost up and eventually prevent airflow to the food section. Milk goes sour.
3) In rare circumstances, the timer itself can stall. This cause the same symptoms as above, but this is not as common as the other 2 causes of No Defrost.
Sequence: Check heater continuity. Check safety thermostat continuity while cold. Check defrost timer operation.
Hope this helps. I am a journeyman with 39 years exp. Happy New Year.

there are 3 components in the defrost circuit line def. heater, def. t-stat., and def. timer / adaptive def. control. with that being said frigidiare rf are more than likely to have a bad def. t-stat on models made before 2003 and the adc fails on model made after that time

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/marlon_56d9a24f02585258

Defective defrost timer, heaters, or defrost thermostat. Locate the defrost timer, rotate the dial (clutch head screw) clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one click. That puts the timer in defrost. Wait 25-30 minutes and the defrost should happen. Normally the timer will shift back to the cooling mode after 18-22 minutes. If it does not restart after the 30 minutes your problem is the defrost timer. Rotate the dial SLOWLY a little more and it should go back into the cooling mode. If you followed the above instructions and did not get a defrost the problem is in the heaters or defrost thermostat.

The answer to your last question would be yes. You can test for voltage at the harness where you plugged in the new assembly. With the refrigerator defrost timer in the defrost mode do your voltage test. The thermo stat for the defrost does not close until the temperature drops to about 16°F. If you have and Ohm meter you can test for continuity through the heater assembly by testing heater end to end and bypassing the thermo disk. If you have voltage at the first point test where you connected the harness your timer is O.K.. If there is no voltage with timer in the defrost position it could be bad.