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It could be the power site problem, and the common cause is that the transistor or if not the resistor which is located on the live site close to that fuse.
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Check EVERY segment of cord from the wall AC outlet to your machine.
Are there any power strips?
Are they turned ON?
Are any power strips overloaded with either too many things plugged into them, or a large power draining appliance?
I am certain you have already checked to make certain that
1) it is plugged in
2) There is not a fuse blown
More info would help. Was it working before? For how long? How old is it? Have you checked the wall plug for power with a lamp or a tester? How long did you wait for the system to reset before you plugged it back in? IF the wall plug has power and IF you've waited at least 10 minutes before you plugged it back in, then try this: unplug all of the power cords from each component to the next component until all are unplugged. THEN unplug the main power cord going to the wall plug. Wait 10 minutes, then plug back in all of the power cords to the MAIN UNIT and then plug the main unit (the receiver I would assume) back in the wall. If that doesn't work, something in the HTS itself is blown. Good luck. . .
have you checked the power cord to make sure it's inserted correctly into the machine? if it is in the machine correctly, the problem could be the on -off switch or the power cord it would be a good idea to have the machine checked at a sewing machine repair shop
Re you getting the standby red light when you switch on the power??????? If not, then I will advise you to check with another power cord which will confirm you that old power cable is defective. If so, check all the connections i.e. power plug, wall socket and the TV end.
If all these are OK then the trouble lies with your switch. It is not making contact though it may be giving clicking sound. Have it changed since you have already checked the fuses.
Good day. Here are some tips on how to troubleshoot the problem: 1. Check for physical connection first. Check if the power cord doesn't have any physical defects. 2. Make sure the printer is plugged in to a known working
power outlet. 3. Unplug the power supply from the printer(it's the black box
where the power cord is plugged in behind the printer). It may be
hard but it can be removed. Leave the power cord plugged in it and
the other end to the power outlet in the wall. Check the LED around the silver contacts of the power supply. It should be on and green. If that's on, power supply is ok. 4. Plug back the power supply in the printer. Make sure it's
plugged in the right position. It may seem to be plugged in already
but the position is incorrect. Double-check. 5. If you have double-checked already that the power supply is
plugged in correctly 100%, then it should power on. 6. If not, try pressing the power button of the printer. Hope one these steps fixes the problem. Good luck!
If you feel comfortable doing it you could try removing the back and examining the power supply. Make sure the power cord is not plugged in. Remove the screws holding the back on the organ. Look to see where the power supply is. It will be a fair sized metal box that the power cord comes out of. Look for a fuse holder on the box.If there isn't one or you already checked the fuse look to see how the power supply is fastened down. If you can remove it you can check the power cord from the plug end to the connection in the power supply with a volt ohm meter on the lower resistance scale. Check both sides of the power cord . Look for an internal fuse soldered into the circuit if there is one. Check it also. You can also check the power switch the same way. Think of the power cord and switch etc as a garden hose. You want to make sure that the flow of electricity is not interrupted any where between the plug and the power transformer. Do all these tests with the cord unplugged. Also avoid touching anything connected to the filter capacitors as they store dangerous amounts of electricity. If none of this helps note the plug that connects the power supply to the organ. Unplug it and take the power supply in to be tested. A good piano service place should be able to direct you to someone. Also remember that something had to make the power supply fail if it is indeed faulty. None of this is simple or recommended for a person who has no experience with electricity or electronic repair. If you feel at all hesitant about doing it you are better advised to consult a repair person. If you do have experience but no schematic you can still usually find the problem with careful thought and procedure. Break the circuit down into modules and test them one at a time starting with the power supply. It could be something as simple as a frayed cord or blown fuse to something as complex as a burned out transistor or faulty tube ( in the case of older organs) causing the power supply to fail. I once repaired a home organ that the power supply blew in again because of the customers house wiring. That particular wall plug in had been wired improperly. Hope all this helps.
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