What can I do to keep snakes away? - Reptile

nothing
we can reduce the attraction by removing any food for rats and mice
clean up the area , remove ant tin drums that snakes can live under
the main thing is , snakes follow the food source so have no food source and they keep moving

snakes are attracted by warmth and the smell of live food
to keep snakes out , remove all vermin from your grounds and house and keep all doors/ fly screens closed
lock any pet doors
keep the yards well mowed , all rubbish removed to stop vermin breeding

Hi Judy:
Don't know how your question got in the Cars and Trucks section, but had to reply anyway.
Can you give us a hint of your general location, and the kind of snakes you are dealing with?
If the snakes are not presenting a hazard to people they actually may be beneficial by eating rodents or other pests.
My suggestion would be to contact the local Government Conservation Officer for appropriate information.
Please reply as a comment to this post to let us know how it is resolved.
Cheers.

The first step in keeping snakes away from your house is to control the factors that are attracting them there in the first place. It is time to roll up your sleeves and do some work in your yard. Remove weeds, excess vegetation, piles of debris and any other areas where snakes can hide. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Keep-Snakes-Away-From-Your-House

The kind that prolly bites. You posted in the car and truck section bud I highly doubt anyone knows the answer to this question

I keep and raise many corn snakes and have had numerous successful hatchings...they are a lot of fun. Age and size will determine the enclosure they will need to start with. A 20 gallon long will do fine for a few years...make sure you get the type with the sliding locking lid to prevent escapes.



I use under tank heat pads for my snakes typically abbreviated UTH (under tank heat). I UTh on the side I choose to be warm and nothing in the other side ...so in effect you have a hot side and a cool side. The hot side will be maintained at 82-85F and the cool side is room temp. usually no lower than 71-73F in my house except on the coldest of winter nights. but thats OK because the snake will migrate to the warm side as it desires.



Now we need to address the substrate. After many years I have settled on ASPEN bedding ....inexpensive. clean and free of harmful odors and caustic oils. Cedar and Pine and Redwood have toxic chemicals that over a long term exposure can cause problems like caustic burns and respiratory issues. Please use ASPEN. Snakes love to burrow through the aspen bedding. Or on the cheaper side newspaper is common and easily replaced when soiled. Aspen bedding can be spot cleaned for a month or 2 and then replaced depending on the amount of feces and size.



A water bowl is required and a place to hide out...A small box for free from the USPS the PRIORITY small box is perfect and free if you need to replace it. cut a few openings on the side and the top so the snake can get in and out.



Feeding of rodents / mammals is required. The snake is a carnivore. You must learn to feed frozen thawed rodents available at the pet stores or raise your own. Depending on the size of the snake you will need to feed it something as big as the largest part of the snake. Usually a corn snake at 2 years of age can eat adult mice ...or young adult mice. Another term often used is a HOPPER mouse which is a younger / smaller mouse fed to 1 year old snakes. Newborn snakes require pinkie mice / newborn mice and will quickly graduate to fuzzie mice in 6 months time.

The reason I say frozen thawed rodents is for the safety of the snake. It is possible for the adult mice to bite the snake and do damage to the snake, if you choose to feed live rodents. I realize after many years and seeing the results of my snake being bitten by a rodent ...it happens and I prefer to feed frozen thawed. The damage was minor but if the mouse had bitten the snake any closer to the eye cap it might have been serious and irreparable.



As your snake grows and sheds it can live for many years. Shedding skin is another area that requires a bit of common sense...offer the snake more moisture when the eyes get cloudy and dull. After a week the snake will turn clear again and then shortly after it will shed its skin. During this time misting of the enclosure and a moist damp towel / washcloth will keep the humidity up to facilitate shedding.



Any more questions I will be happy to help with if I can.

You'll need a pro with a large cable snake and maybe a cutter head...

I hope it's not due to a garbage disposal. I try to warn people away from those things.

Garter snakes, like most snakes, need a thermal gradient in their tanks. What this means is that they will need some areas to be cooler than others. Try to keep a gradient between 70-72F on one side and 80-82F on the other. This way your garter snake can self-regulate its body temperatures as needed.

Hello
No. But there is a product called shake away that will keep them away.

http://www.pestproducts.com/snakeinfo.htm