Washer won't spin, Lr fault code

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The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason. By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing. The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down. You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

More information on when the error is occurring would be helpful resolving this problem. Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down. This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes. At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.

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http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/TDL-0044B-B.pdf

If all else fails, replace motor control board, and/or motor.



I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

To pump out the excess tub water while failing to complete spin cycle;

Enter Service Mode by simultaneously pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”

Pressing the Delicates key will lock the lid. Now press the Presoak key the drain pump will turn on. Stop with off button or hit the Presoak key.

This process is documented in the Service Manual. I would go to page 16 of the SM lower right hand part of page, Board Output Test and turn on the drain pump in service mode to pump out the tub.



If I could ask you to do a little troubleshooting;

It sounds like the wash/agitate cycle completes and you enter into the spin cycle of the selected wash cycle is that correct. When the wash cycle fails does the Cycle Status LED indicate that the washer is in the Spin cycle?

With a empty wash basket no wash load in the basket and you start a Spin Only cycle will the Spin Only cycle complete?

If the washer will start the cycle do you hear and loud Spin Only cycle noise such as metal against metal grinding noise?

With the washer off and no clothes in the wash basket can you open the lid then Spin the wash basket as fast as you can in the CCW direction the only direction. The wash basket should spin CCW several rotations and coast down to a smooth stop dose it?

I’m checking for Outer Tub increased bearing resistance…..Rich


FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

hope this helps ya http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/03/11/maytag-neptune-front-loading-washer-motor-wont-spin-and-lr-error-code/

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question %^$&*UR

Hi, this code(LR), represents a malfunction that is located in the Motor Control board. this board is responsible for the proper function and speed of the motor. the unit will not operate properly with a bad MCB

You will need to replace the damaged MCB asap if possible.

This MCB replacment will cost $215.00(part cost)

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question#@$@$

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question )(*UJH

L means "Lid or Door Lock" problem
r probably means 'release' I couldn't find it anywhere... so I'd guess that Lr means the machine did not detect that the Lid Lock released and cycle end (which means either the sensor is bad or the Lid Lock dosen't lock the Lid).

Either way, something with the Lid Lock system ais not right. Be glad it releases ;-)