I designed a logo on Sew Art digitizer, when logo embroider on track suit material, it came out perfect. But on T-shirt material, the back stitches are very thick. My machine is a Elna 8600.

Yep, open the leg seam, embroider, and then stitch the seam closed.

Your tension on top can be loosened. If this causes your stitch to be too loose then tighten your bobbin tension. Just think of the top and bottom tensions as a tug of war. They must be even to get the stitch in the middle of the material.

Not really clear on just what your problem is. Are you making an embroidery pattern using a hoop? If so the machine automatically detects the area size the pattern can be embroidered in without striking the edges of the hoop. When a horizon pattern is too big for the stitching area of the hoop the machine switches it to sew vertically.

If this is your case, you can resize the pattern or flip the material to match the direction you want the pattern to sewn.

Also, not all patterns are designed by their creators to stitch out uniformly. Some hop from one point to another then back again making the pleasures of embroidery miserable. Try a pattern you have already successfully done before to test if it is the machine or the pattern.

Then there is factory reset. Check your manual on how to do this and visit the Baby Lock web site where you will find update downloads. Sometimes just powering off the machine and allowing it to set for an hour or so will also allow it to reset itself.

Last but not least and the answer we all hate to hear is, if none of the above are helpful you probable need to have the machine checked by a qualified service person.

use a long basting stitch longest setting you have o machine

Skipped stitches
1. The needle is not inserted correctly
Remove needle & reinsert needle( flat side towards the back of machine)
2. The needle is damaged
replace with new needle
3. The wrong size needle is being used
Choose a needle to suit the thread & fabric
4. The foot not attached correctly
Check & attach correctly

Most machines have a stitch counter, stitch forward and step back features. Check your manual and embroidery machine's screens for this.

IN case you have misplaced your manual I found this one for you. It's big so allow time to download.
http://www.itsastitchonline.com/mastery_on_the_web/Mastery_170_180_1-10-02.pdf

Each kind of embroidery machine will import differently; Bernina uses an ART format and only that. Many collections (designs) are multi-formatted with ART, PES, HUS, ***, etc. Your machine will embroider best with a specific format - your dealer should be able to tell you which one to use. If that is not possible, pick an easy/small number of stitches design and try several formats to see which one stitches out best.

YIKES - what a nightmare! We can approach your problem two ways, but to determine whether the problem is your machine or your design, I need to know if you have been using one design, or if you've tried to embroidery several different designs and are getting threadbreaks about every 10,000 stitches, no matter what design, needle, thread, and bobbin you use.

Here are some rules you should following whenever you embroider on your machine:

• Change your needle and insert a newly wound bobbin every time you start a new project
  
• Use a size Embroidery Needle - size 90 for most projects
  
• Check the backside of your design - you should see alot more bobbin thread than embroidery thread. If you don't see enough bobbin thread, loosen your top tension. If the tension is set automatically, change it manually.
• Your design might be the problem. Some designs have WAY to many stitches. If you haven't already, choose several different designs with different styles - for example, a monogram, a design that is mostly satin stitches, a design that is mostly straight stitches, and so on. Sew one or all over and over so you determine whether your thread will continue to break about every 10,000 stitches.

I hope this helps. Machine embroidery is so much fun once you've learned and practiced. I hope to hear from you - machine embroidery is not hard to learn, but there is a lot to learn. Thanks.







If you want to get right to work, skip the troubleshooting and answer as many questions as you can or have time for. It is possible that your problem is the design and not the machine. Try one suggestion at time so you what helps and what doesn't. Questions first:

1. Is the machine brand new, or new to you?
2. Do you have your manual?
   
3. Do you been embroidering by machine for a while, or are you just learning?
4. Does this problem occur with every design you sew, or is it one particular design that you are having trouble with?
5. How many total stitches are in the design you are trying ot sew?
6. What kind of thread are you using (rayon, poly, sewing?)
   
7. Did you buy the machine from a dealer, and if so, does it have a warranty?
   
8. Have you taken lessons on how to use your machine for both sewing and embroidery?
9. Are you familiar with embroidery backings, needles, and threads and how to choose which to use for a particular project?

The plus hoop is a multi positional hoop that allows you you to embroider designs up to 4" x 6". It is essential for monogramming and lettering using your Rose. The Rose hooping system is the same as the 1+, the Scandinavia 300 and 400.

The designs you use must be formatted for the plus hoop. That is, the design has already been divided into two or three elements. Each element is an individual design. For instance, say the design is a long stemmed rose. It would probably be divided something like this: design 1: the flower and the top part of the stem, design 2: The middle part of the stem and the leaves, design 3: the bottom part of the stem.

You would hoop up your fabric to be embroidered, attach the hoop to the machine, set the hoop to position 1, select design 1, stitch out design 1, set the hoop to position 2, select design 2, stitch out design 2, set the hoop to position 3, select design 3, stitch out design 3. You should have a complete design when you're done and everything should match up perfectly!

The hoop is divided up into three squares, 4" x 4". Position 1 square overlaps position 2 square and position 2 square overlaps position 3 square. This overlapping allows the designs to stitch out more smoothly.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have further questions. Carrie

Dear sewer:
The only way I have found is to take the pocket off the shirt and re-sew it after you have finished embroidering it. Notrub