We took the filters, drip bar, and 2 sort of triangle things off our Viking hood to clean and can't figure how to reassemble. It's the triangle pieces that we don't know how to put back.

Hello Caron, thank you for your inquiry!

Based off the information you have provided you took apart the bottom panel of your Frigidaire dishwasher and need help reassembling it. I have attached a parts schematic of your dishwasher to help assist you further. Best of luck! -Matt
ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Kinston/5995552584.pdf

ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Kinston/5995552584.pdf

Is the beater bar actually turning when the power is turned on? Sometimes the belt is fine, but something is jammed and keeping the beater bar from turning. What about the section behind the beater bar, but before the hose upright. I've found large pieces of paper jammed in here and then hair gets caught, ultimately blocking the whole system. Usually you have to turn it over, remove some screws and disconnect the belt and beater bar to get underneath. Just reassemble it in the reverse order to how you took it apart. Double check the hoses and run a "unwound" metal coat hanger through to unclog anything. Does the vacuum " suck" with the hose or tube up to it disconnected? If not you may have a motor that somehow got junk pulled into it. You can open this up as well and clean this out. Of course unplug it all before doing anything.

First, deactivate the chain brake, back-off the chain adjuster, then remove the bar and chain. Run the engine at speed for a moment or two--the oil should ooze out of the engine side port. If the oil quantity seems about right, then clean the drive end of the bar oil-passages including the two small passages that go out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the chain groove and check the sprocket on the far end (if equipped). Reassemble the bar and chain, then start and run the engine at speed for several moments with the bar tip near a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. Check the owner's manual for location of any oil-volume adjustment if needed.

Take the bar and chain from the saw. Clean the two small ports that run from the large oil holes at the drive end of the bar out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Start the engine with these parts removed--oil should ooze out from the side port in the engine case with the engine running at med speed. If it doesn't, then there is trouble near the pump inside the case. When everything is back together, run the saw at full speed with the bar tip near a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard after a few moments of running. Hope this helps!

I had the same problem and I eventually figured it out. The blade assembly has to be reassembled first then snapped back into place.

1. the bottom part has a little "nub" that the screws attach to
2. the second part is the thin piece of metal with a ridge
3. the white plastic thing, make sure the ridges are sandwiched together
4. the small blade, the blades must face each other
5. the large blade

use the 2 screws to hold the assembly together, once assembled it snaps into place on the clipper. See attached picture for how it should look once assembled.

It's STUPID that this is missing from the instruction guide that comes with the clippers.

Oil System Plugged.

1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
2. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.

If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Post back with a model and serial number plus what you have done, we will help you with repair/replacement. HTH
Lou

Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar and chain. Clean the oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw.
If no a blunted, hooked piece of wire can be used to pull the hose in the oil tank out. I recommend the filter be replaced. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is probably left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL
Lou

I took the motor out of the range hood. There is a set screw holding the squirrel cage fan in place which I unscrewed enough to slide the fan part off. I then boiled the part in a deep pan with lots of dish soap. I then brushed away the remaining debris. Avoid using dishwasher detergent which is effective but seems to erode the aluminum.

the sponge filter goes around the plastic part with tons of vertical slits on it

Remove the blower and reach up into the duct through the back flow damper and put weather stripping on the 2 edges that are chattering, it will greatly reduce the noise