Plastic arm with a spring on it flew out of back of macine,spin cycle is erratic

THE BOBBIN CARRIER IS WHAT FLEW OUT. THIS IS PUT IN BY ROTATING YOUR HAND WHEEL SO THE NEEDLE IS AT IT'S HIGHEST POINT. THEY'RE IS A SPRING THAT HOLDS THE CARRIER DOWN IN THE MIDDLE APPROXIMATELY. IT IS A LITTLE PIECE OF METAL BUT REALLY IS A SPRING. AS YOU PUT IT IN YOU WILL NEED TO PULL UP ON IT A LITTLE IN ORDER TO SLIDE IT IN. BEFORE YOU DO GO AHEAD AND CLEAN THE RACE THE CARRIER LIES ON AND PUT A DROP OF SEWING MACHINE OIL ON IT.

It must have broken some plastic off inside or may have jammed the belt mechanism. Check the belt and suspension/mounting.

Most likely bearing or spider arm worn out. Probably time for a new washer

You may have a broken interlock switch underneath the lid. Lift lid and somewhere on the right side is a hole. Under it there is a plastic arm, such that the machine won't spin if the lid is open. There should be a plastic 'finger' on the lid. check that out, Gently pushing a popsicle stick down the hole. Thwere should be springy resistance, or look down the hole with a flashlight and see if a plastic finger is across about the middleof the hole.

I hope this isn't too much info for you. Let me know.

I had a washer that at the beginning of the spin cycle it was fine, but when the water was half drained it would begin making a banging noise. When the draining reach the bottom and the spin speed increased it was fine. Finally found the problem - What happened was the tabs that hold the control arms for the brake had loosened. During the spin cycle especially in the middle of the cycle (when torque was at the maximum and speed was at medium. The brake spring would flex out due to compression and hit the some extended metal tab on the brake housing. Once the speed increased and the torque reduced the spring no longer hit the housing tabs. Fix the problem by bending the tabs that hold the brake control arms in place to better hold the control arms in the proper location.

Assuming that this is a top load, direct drive Neutral Drain model, simply lifting and closing the lid may do the same as removing 1/2 of the clothes.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 16Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, the kit cost us $15.00 which is a lot less than the $170 for a new transmission.

I know this sounds too simple, but on My dishwasher which is an SHX46b model, the plastic supply arm that comes out of the pump and supplies the upper arm popped out of it's correct position at the base. It is held in place by two dinky nibs. I just popped it back in and voila, pressure was back and arms were spinning.

lean it back take off the belt turn the pump in both directions by hand. then motor and transmission pulley.unplug it first! my moneys on the pump :)

Yes, start calling junk yards for the whole wiper arm or order the arm at your vw dealer, you will not find just the spring. Good Luck

Give the spray arm a spin to make sure it rotates. It should spin freely. If not, remove plastic spray arm clip, flip it over, replace it, and try again. Make sure holes in the spray arm are clear of debris. Spray arm must be clean for it to spin. If spray arm does spin freely, remove spray arm clip, spray arm and the post assy (the thing the spray arm attaches to). Try your WikiFix again. This time add baking soda to the hole the post assy came from. Top it off with white vinegar. Leave it overnight. In the morning, stick your finger down the hole where the spray arm assy sat. You should feel a plastic thing. This is a propeller attached to the recirculation pump. You need to free it up. Get that thing moving with your pinky or a chopstick or whatever. Try the machine without the spray arm. You should get water blasting up from the hole. Reassemble the spray arm.