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HI PAULA.this is too new but the fact that it went wrong after the power cut indicates that the power surge has damaged the pcb board.try manufactures warranty.good luck.Ali
This looks as if the negative has been scratched by the minilab processor. It could be scratched in tha camera but with this camera there are only two places this could happen resulting in this kind of scratch.
One is the film cassette itself, the other is the take-up spool, where the film is wound onto itself. However this would not be likley to create a scratch affecting more than one or two negs.
Colour film has a built in orange filter which compensates for the excess sensitivity of colour papers to blue. If this is scratched away, then more blue get's through which prints yellow.
The processing machine uses sqeegee's to prevent carry-over of chenicals form one bath to another, and damage or contaminaton of any one of these can scratch the negative. This is much more likely during processing, as the emulsion is softer when wet.
Films usually have a protective anti-scratch layer, but the protection is not 100%. Also develelped emulsion is generally harder than undeveloped as the last development stage often contains chemical hardeners designed to give extra protection to the negative.
The reason it may not show on all the prints is simply that these days many colour film is printed by digital scanning. Many scanners can detect scratches by viewing the negative in infrared light. Photographic dyes are transparent to infrared in order to reduce heat absorption from enlarger lamps, so there should be no image visible in infrared, anything that is must be dust or a scratch. The image can them be processed to compensate for the scrathes making them virtually undetectable.
A thin scratch may be filled in by using pixesl just either side of the scratch to fill the scratch in. With a wider scratch, if there is some residual image then the software can use that and nearby unscratched areas as a guide to make an acceptable guess as to what was supposed to be there. If the scratch is too wide and too deep it will just give up. A bodged attempt may end-up worse than the scratch. (Often a skilled touch up artist can make it dissapear, but machines on their own are not that smart yet.)
So the good news is that your camera is unlikely to be at fault.
If this shows on one film or a batch of films processed at the same time, take them back to the processor. (I have done this before and been paid a fair amount of compensation. If they printed them at the same time it should be obvious that the negs were scratched before you took them home.)
On the other hand if this is showing on films processed at the same place over a period of time then don't use them again.
If this is happening no matter where you get the film developed, then you might need to check you camera!
When you say ''back'' of the film do you mean on the emulsion side or the base side. Base can take light scratches can may desapear in processing..Emulsion side is not forgiving...
Hard to tell..Anything along film path can cause scratches, including the back of the cover, film tension, aperture gate..
Hard to suggest anything precisely other than a good check up by registered Pentax rep.
I once spoted a similar problem by loading a camera with he film wounded backwards. That is emulsion facing the back of the camera and base toward the lens. Emulsion being softer, I found a spot where emusion built up (thus scratching on base side). I did not dare fixing it and sent it for repair for a good clean up.
Under proper lighting, you may also want to remove the lens and carefully look for the scratch in the aperture gate. If you see it, problem is before (feeding side).
Good luck. KX is aging but still a good camera
there is an antiglare film on the tube. the only way to fix this is to replace the crt itself, but this cast more than the tv. i would find a strong cleaner and rub off as much as you can. it is possible i have done this myself.
Hi,powerpe. The mirror release rod can be located in the bottom of the body once the plate has been removed.(there are three screws on the old k1000's) There is a gear train on the left side when viewed turned over.The mirror cockong rod is towards the rear and a little right of the main shaft.You might need to move a little silver pawl with a pin or micro driver then you can push the mirror **** in to release the reflex mirror.the mirror cocking rod is about 1/8" dia.Hope this helps
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