I want to know if the power cable in my docket for V34384 is placed correctly? It interferes with the removal of the unit, I think I am liable to damage the cable by abrading its cover.

I'm not sure what type of TV you have (Plasma, LCD, LED) but either way, these tvs works as a computer, they have different boards, (I think 5 of them, not sure). Now I'm no expert, but the problem could be the Y board, or the displays ( I forgot what is called) adapters, you see them on the edge of the TV.
I'm just trying to help here with little I know, my LG TV was fixed but the display always flicker also.

I think it is best to connect power cable directly to the interference filter where is normally connected.
The interference filter is connected in the terminal board parallel to the mains feed. See below pictures:


Dado

SET IT TO LOWER SETTING

CERTIFIED TV EXPERT HERE, follow this information I provided 3 long solutions to this issue/s Solution 1 Before we start taking things apart, lets try your simple remove power plug routine and power system back up. Also, please try your unit on a few different channels to see if your problem continues on each channel. Your Main Board, Power Board, T-Control Board are suspected problems at this time. Press and hold the power button for about 15 seconds, the unit should power down by itself after you have powered it on. If it does not, then do not be concerned. Let me know if the problem continues. The first link below will bring you directly to the troubleshooting guide if you need to continue forward with the same error. Additional information http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Parts: www.shopjimmy.com 2 Lets focus on the external portion of the TV set first (95 percent of all TV problems are related to things EXTERNAL To the tv itself) Check the physical CONNECTION of all cables by removing each wire bare or RCA and reinstalling it (Each power cable as well), once you have removed one cable, check it for fraying, and if it is already bare, splice a new fresh connection for it. 5. Check to make sure there are NO OTHER uneeded radios, system nearby. these systems, when powered on, will cause electromagnetic interference and prevent more than just severe tv interference SURGE PROTECTOR Surge protectors account for more than 75 percent of electric faults to stereo equipment. Lets start with your AC Wall outlet. It is standard in america that 220 Volts from out of these outlets. This implies that each device will be using 220 Volts (From within that grid zone). If anything including an alarm clock is plugged into any AC outlet socket in the vicinity of the stereo equipment/TV, it will cause electric outage, and prevent electronics from even turning on! Your TV needs dedicated electric power. If your TV is located in the living room then unplug everything else in the living room. Lets plug the TV set into a Dedicated socket. Check all light switches to ensure that power is on for that outlet. Check the TV cable for Fraying both on the ac wall end and where it plugs into the TV. Check all GFCI outlets to ensure that all red reset buttons are pushed in, check the circuit breakers for proper connection and they are turned on. Now, lets try the TV set without it connected to any cable services, vcr, dvd, stereo system, etc. Please respond if we have found a solution. 3 When troubleshooting these units, there are always several variables to consider. First check to see what last occurred with the unit such as did the children play video games, did the electricity go out due to bad weather. You may see that there are many possibilities but let's focus on what occurred last to the unit. Once we determine what happened last, we may isolate the actual cause of the problem. The actual cause may be associated with projection issues, older versions (Picture tube), interference from devices located nearby, and even a radio turned on and located really close to your unit. This is normally known as electromagnetic interference to electronics and is very common with the error you have provided today. Please continue to look for anything EXTERNAL to the unit before looking at the internal components. I have been working on these a long time so feel free to follow up with me

1. Locate where your CD or DVD ROM drive connects to the motherboard and make a note of this. Make sure you know exactly how the gray cable was connected.
2. Have the new DVD ROM drive handy and unplug and/or slide out (depending on setup) the old one. Unplug the cables from the appropriate places. You do not have to unplug the one going to the DVD ROM. Wiggle back and forth gently and then pull out.
   
3. Attach your new cables and reattach to motherboard and power supply where you removed the old ones.
   
4. Reattach the power cord and cables, but do not close up the computer entirely yet.
   
5. Test your new DVD player by placing a disc in the drive and ensuring the green light comes on and you hear it power on. If this happens without a problem, then close up the case. If not, then check to make sure cables are securely fastened in the correct motherboard slots and to the power supply
   

Here are some tips to try:

Limited range of your remote controls could be related to radio frequency interference that comes from something in your home or in the surrounding environment. Certain electrical devices can radiate interference; this could be almost anything that is plugged into an electrical outlet.


Please keep in mind that the device can be brand new, or can be an item that has been in use for quite a while. Also, the item may continue to function properly as far as you are able to tell. The only problem with the item may be that it has started to broadcast the interference, with no other symptoms noted.


Some devices are more likely to generate interference than others. This includes TV cable, cable amplifiers, surge protectors, fluorescent lights, battery charging devices (power tools, golf carts, etc.), anything that utilizes a timer (sprinkler systems, lights, alarm systems, etc.), and a myriad of others. If the problem seems sporadic, we can safely assume that the device responsible for the interference is only being operated during these times. Again, please keep in mind that the age of the device does not determine if it is capable of broadcasting unwanted interference. Any electrical device can be the source of the problem.


The first step is replacing the battery in your remote. If the range on your remote does not improve, remove the wall control wires from the overhead unit. If the range does not improve you will likely need to replace the remote control. After replacing the remote, or if you have other remotes programmed in to the opener, and the range problem still exists, please proceed to the Power Down test.


Multiple garage doors:
If you have two garage door units and one is working just fine, you will need to start by unplugging the good unit. This will help determine if the unit with no range starts to function properly. If the range comes back to the bad unit then you will need to replace the logic board on the unit that was unplugged as it is emitting an RF signal that is over powering the other garage door opener. If the range doesn not improve after the “good” unit has been unplugged, replace the batteries and try programming some additional remotes to determine if the existing remotes are the issue. If the extra remotes do not have any range then you would need to replace the receiver logic board in the “bad” unit.

Disconnect the "audio-out" cables from the unit.
Leave the "audio-in" cables connected.
Try to record. Does this work correctly?

I think you are on the right track. Possibly read some specs on what wire you should be using. I've never had to remove or reinsulate data wire but am well aware of how sensitive "data" wires can be.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

did you ever fix the problem?

if it is a powered sub you should lift the ground. you can do this by adding a three prong to two prong adapter. you know, like when you go to plug something in and the cord your plugging in has three prongs and the outlet your plugging in to only has two. it doesn't have the hole for the ground so you go get a little grey adapter that has three holes on one side and two prongs or tabs on the other.if that doesn't take the hum out (actually, is keeping the hum from getting in) you have a problem with the amplifier.