I have to replace the 3 1/4 inch porclein levers from my double entry set brass bedroom handles. They are black and easily screw off but I can't find a replacement. Any ideas?

Moen Cartridge Replacement for Shower Valves and Kitchen Faucets.

There are two different types of Moen cartridge for a single handle shower valve. The first and most common one is the plastic 1225 cartridge that is used for all Moen single handle valves that are not posi-temp shower valves. This cartridge also comes in brass which is number 1200, but it is more expensive and doesn't last any longer or work any better than the plastic cartridge. The posi temp cartridge is a number 1222. This is the replacement cartridge for shower valves that you turn rather than pull. As you turn the valve it goes from cold to warm to eventually hot. The tools needed for this procedure are pliers, Phillips screwdriver, a small flat screwdriver or awl, a 3/4 inch copper cleaning brush, silicone or heat proof grease, a knife to pull the cap on an acrylic handle, or a 7/64 inch Allen key to remove lever handle.
If it is an acrylic handle simply pry off the cap and unscrew the screw with a Phillips screwdriver. If it is a lever handle there is a set screw which is 7/64 of an inch. Use an Allen key to remove this set screw. If it is a lever handle when the handle is removed you must use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the handle adapter.
Before removing the cartridge make sure that the water is turned off and open the valve to bleed off the pressure. Leave the valve in the open position as it will facilitate the removal of the cartridge if the spindle is in the open position. It can be turned off at the main which is usually the easiest thing to do, or you can remove the faceplate and there may be integral stops behind the faceplate. Use the integral stops if your water main is hard to reach. On the brass spindle of the cartridge there is a notch on one side. Before you remove the cartridge take note of what position this notch is in because that is the position in which the cartridge will be placed. Do not forget this step as a posi temp cartridge will not function properly if installed with the notch in the wrong place. If you install the regular cartridge with the notch in the wrong place, hot and cold will be reversed. Simply remove the handle and spin the spindle 180°.
Pull off the chrome stop tube that encloses the cartridge. There is a horseshoe-shaped retainer clip that must be removed. Use the small screwdriver or awl to pry up the top of the retainer clip. A plastic square head removal tool comes with the cartridge that you have purchased. Place this on the cartridge and spend back and forth to loosen the cartridge. Then take your pliers pull the brass spindle straight back towards you. If this proves too difficult and you are unable to pull it out you will have to buy a Moen cartridge pulling tool. Be sure to buy the right tool as they are not interchangeable. The posi temp tool is much fatter than the regular tool. The tool operates the same way a hub puller. Back off the knot on the tool as well as the screw. Place over the cartridge and advance the screw all the way. Now advance the nut.
After the cartridge is removed take the 3/4 inch copper cleaning brush and insert into the cartridge housing while spinning clockwise. When removing the brush also keep spinning it clockwise. After brushing, open the water main for about three seconds to flush the line out.
When installing the cartridge make sure that your notch is aligned properly and that the cartridge is pushed in all the way and that the two tabs on the cartridge are aligned vertically. Install the retainer clip. If it doesn't go in all the way either the cartridge has not been pushed in foreign off or the two tabs are not aligned properly. You can use the plastic tool to align the tabs properly and to help push in the cartridge all the way. Reassemble faceplate and handle and you are done.
For a kitch faucet, pull the cap, remove the Philips screw, disengage the handle, and unscrew the grooved retainer nut. Pull the horseshoe shaped retainer clip and now you can remove the cartridge. Take note of the position of the notch on the brass spindle. Using pliers, pull straight up to remove cartridge. If you cannot remove using pliers, you may have to buy a cartridge removal tool. Clean out housing using 3/4" wire copper cleaning brush and grease liberally with silicone or faucet grease. Install cartridge, and reassemble handle assembly.
If you have a newer faucet, the handle assembly may be a bit different. Use a 7/64" Allen key to remove the set screw found under the red/blue button on front side of handle. After the handle is removed you must use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the handle adapter.

MOEN CARTRIDGE REPLACEMENT
There are two different types of Moen cartridge for a single handle valve. The first and most common one is the plastic 1225 cartridge that is used for all Moen single handle valves that are not posi-temp shower valves. This cartridge also comes in brass which is number 1200, but it is more expensive and doesn't last any longer or work any better than the plastic cartridge. The posi temp cartridge is a number 1222. This is the replacement cartridge for shower valves that you turn rather than pull. As you turn the valve it goes from cold to warm to eventually hot. The tools needed for this procedure are pliers, Phillips screwdriver, a small flat screwdriver or awl, a 3/4 inch copper cleaning brush, silicone or heat proof grease, a knife to pull the cap on an acrylic handle, or a 7/64 inch Allen key to remove lever handle.
If it is an acrylic handle simply pry off the cap and unscrew the screw with a Phillips screwdriver. If it is a lever handle there is a set screw which is 7/64 of an inch. Use an Allen key to remove this set screw. If it is a lever handle when the handle is removed you must use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the handle adapter.
Before removing the cartridge make sure that the water is turned off and open the valve to bleed off the pressure. Leave the valve in the open position as it will facilitate the removal of the cartridge if the spindle is in the open position. It can be turned off at the main which is usually the easiest thing to do, or you can remove the faceplate and there may be integral stops behind the faceplate. Use the integral stops if your water main is hard to reach. On the brass spindle of the cartridge there is a notch on one side. Before you remove the cartridge take note of what position this notch is in because that is the position in which the cartridge will be placed. Do not forget this step as a posi temp cartridge will not function properly if installed with the notch in the wrong place. If you install the regular cartridge with the notch in the wrong place, hot and cold will be reversed. Simply remove the handle and spin the spindle 180°.
Pull off the chrome stop tube that encloses the cartridge. There is a horseshoe-shaped retainer clip that must be removed. Use the small screwdriver or all to pry up the top of the retainer clip. A plastic square head removal tool comes with the cartridge that you have purchased. Place this on the cartridge and spend back and forth to loosen the cartridge. Then take your pliers pull the brass spindle straight back towards you. If this proves too difficult and you are unable to pull it out you will have to buy a Moen cartridge pulling tool. Be sure to buy the right tool as they are not interchangeable. The posi temp tool is much fatter than the regular tool. The tool operates the same way a hub puller. Back off the knot on the tool as well as the screw. Place over the cartridge and advance the screw all the way. Now advance the nut.
After the cartridge is removed take the 3/4 inch copper cleaning brush and insert into the cartridge housing while spinning clockwise. When removing the brush also keep spinning it clockwise. After brushing, open the water main for about three seconds to flush the line out.
When installing the cartridge make sure that your notch is aligned properly and that the cartridge is pushed in all the way and that the two tabs on the cartridge are aligned vertically. Install the retainer clip. If it doesn't go in all the way either the cartridge has not been pushed in foreign off or the two tabs are not aligned properly. You can use the plastic tool to align the tabs properly and to help push in the cartridge all the way. Reassemble faceplate and handle and you are done.

http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/content/BDHHI/24910-04

Kwikset lever handles are held on with hex set screws. A wrench is included in the package. It's either a 3/32" or 2.5 mm. Note that the lock must be unlocked to remove or install the outside handle.

PUT A SCREW DRIVER IN THE HOLE AND TURN IT

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_0ca6379e2eceb740

Look at screw color.
Dark screw on old 3-way and new 3-way is for 'common' wire.
Other two screws are brass.
Move dark-screw wire to new dark screw.
Move brass-screw wires to either new brass screw.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-way-circuit-500.jpg

You mention a dimmer and a 2nd on-off switch.
You purchased a 'double pole' switch which I believe is a 3-way switch.

3-way switch has 3 screws (plus ground screw which will not be mentioned further)
3 screws on 3-way switch = one is dark colored, and 2 are brass colored.

You can guess. There are only 3 wires and you can keep trying different combination until both switches work. Do not change wiring on 2nd switch and sooner or later the right combination will appear.

On the other hand, electricians test wires using ordinary tester, before connecting anything.
If you want to test, it takes 3 ez steps.

Here's what I would do.
1) Look at wiring on 2nd switch.
Notice switch has 1 dark screw and 2 brass screws.
If you can identify the two wires on the brass colored screws, these are the 'travelers' and same two wires connect to brass colored screws on new switch. And then last wire connects to dark colored screw.

2) You have noted the wires carefully on dimmer, so remove dimmer, and separate wires for testing.
2nd switch is moved to down position.
We are NOT going to test wires on 2nd switch.
We are just testing wires at old dimmer.
Turn on power.

Power is on.
2nd switch is in down position.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
One and only one wire will light up the tester.
Mark this wire.

3) Change 2nd switch, and move 2nd switch to up position.
Test each wire again to bare ground wire.
Again only one wire will light up tester.
Mark this wire.
If same wire lights up tester each time, then this is the Hot wire and it connects to new switch dark screw. And the other two wires go to brass colored screws.
If a different wire lights up each time, then these two wires are 'travellers' and they connect to each brass colored screw. And the last wire connects to dark colored screw.

Try this link, it should get you to where you can find yours, if this isn't it. Then you can view parts, installation etc.

http://www.deltafaucet.com/customersupport/documentation/1343.html?document=pd

the lever handle on that faucet is two pieces, it seperates at the top of the big round part. Hold the big round part with one hand and unscrew the smaller round piece out of the top of it. You must turn the small round part, turning the handle will do no good.

There's a little set screw that u have to take out with an allen key. then after u take the handle off u have to unscrew the cartridge and take it out and replace with a new one. they're made out of plastic- they break easily.

Some months ago I fell over my K-G6 at nite. Later the handle appeared looser than normal. Gradually, it started having the possessed yank-you-off-your-feet feel. This week I carefully disassembled the chrome plated cowling cover the handle goes thru to look inside. Two top machine screws when the front hood is lifted, two rear screws in the plastic, a single center screw near the drive-neutral toggle and a single screw for the power cord strain relief. I removed the handle by taking the two large screws off. This allowed the cowling to come free. From the rear, on the left side is a lever with a two pronged fork pointing up. The fork is supposed to stick into the receiver mechanism which is part of the handle slide. I get it: as the user pushes and pulls on the handle while vacuuming, the handle assembly slides back and forth and transmits commands thru the mechanical linkage to the drive mechanism. My fork was not engaged in the receiver. The reason was 3 screws on the left side of the brass block assembly were loose and the small black wedge was partially crushed. I dissassembled, cleaned, oiled and replaced the pieces and cinched down the 5 machine screws holding both brass blocks and the wedge. When I did this, I noticed the fork engaged with the receiver. Now reassembled, my Kirby runs pretty good and no longer feels possessed. And yes the roller height does make a difference on the drive assist reaction.