How to remove the spin basket on the ge tl1103pbwn

remove fabric option then long extension and screw at bottom could be reverse threads

Fisher Paykel Top-Load Washer WL80t65C Error 40
Error Fault Condition - Spin Basket Will Not Engage Or Disengage From Clutch.
Repair or Check - The spin basket has to be able to rise and fall with the water level. This is to engage and disengage from the clutch. Unplug the washer from power. Remove the spin basket. Remove any objects found between the spin basket and the tub. An object could be interfering with the spin basket clutch engagement. Replace any broken drive components.
Parts for Replacement - Drive Components.

The washer uses a green light, which is the "Start" button, to indicate problems, and the flash pattern is a code to the type of problem. Two flashes means the washer's drain pump must be cleaned. Clumpy or poor-quality detergents can clog the drain pump. The user can attempt to fix the pump, but, If the problem continues, he must contact the GE customer service line for professional service.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_12129638_troubleshoot-ge-washing-machine-green-light-flashing-two-times.html#ixzz2qLdypTQ0

its the inner baskets bearings behind this basket as water gets past the rear seal into these bearings and ruins them,you need to dismantle the entire unit to remove the inner basket from the outer tub to replace these bearings

Had the same GE model number and similar problem. The basket (stainless steel) doesn't look centered in the unit anymore, you can tell when looking around the perimeter of the basket and compare to the rubber gasket. On front load washers the basket (the stainless piece that spins), if the door is open and if you push up on the basket there should be very very little to NO play or give . Meaning the basket should not be able to move up, down, side to side (not talking about spinning, just north, south, east, west). If there is play or movement there is a very good chance (thinking 95% sure) that it is the bearing. Not good news for any front washer but GE in all it's wisdom set it's crack engineers out to design this unit so that the bearing is not an individual part, this design has the basket (THE ACTUAL STAINLESS BASKET), THE SUPPORT ROD AND BEARINGS AS A SINGLE PIECE. The "Basket Assembly" alone is between $550 and $650, before tax, before labor if you don't do it yourself. If you decided to tackle this yourself you have to totally disassemble the entire unit to replace it. No exaggeration, you literally have to take the entire outer tub assembly apart to replace. If you are able to accomplish this without damaging any other part then you have to Humpty Dumpty back together again, without damaging anything else. Hope this helps.

Maybe the belt or clutch has broken. Remove the front panel and take a look seethe top is bolted down you insert a putty knife between the top and front and press downward to get that front off. Then you can run it and see whats broke. I have a training manual

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if you can open the front of the machine
inspect the motor and clutch area
clutch is under motor

The noise coming from this machine as it spins is due to -- If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

it is like that because you can **** a ****

if washer is newer version remove front panel and ck if has a gearcase it's probably bad if it has what ge calls a mode shifter it's probably bad it has a coil with connection to motor bd..look on bd for flashing green 4 flashes means open mode shifter coil