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I have replaced the ignition coil and removed the ground wire from the coil to check for a spark. Still nothing at all. This lawn tractor has an Onan 14 hp horizontal shaft engine. I have replaced the spark plug, ignition coil, and voltage regulator. I am totally stumped. Thanks for your help.
Yes, I used a business card for the gap. The magnets were definitely pulling hard on the coil.
Initially I had a problem of the engine stopping after a few minutes of mowing. After it rested and cooled, it would start back up. The last time this happened, it wouldn't start. Checked the spark and nothing. Replaced the voltage regulator and then the coil. Still nothing, then unhooked the ground wire from the coil, still nothing. Maybe the new coil is defective? Thanks so much for your help!Yes, I used a business card for the gap. The magnets were definitely pulling hard on the coil.
Initially I had a problem of the engine stopping after a few minutes of mowing. After it rested and cooled, it would start back up. The last time this happened, it wouldn't start. Checked the spark and nothing. Replaced the voltage regulator and then the coil. Still nothing, then unhooked the ground wire from the coil, still nothing. Maybe the new coil is defective? Thanks so much for your help!
I found the problem! I had put the new coil in backwards. There is an arrow on the side of it to match the flywheel rotation. Duh! Breathing too many gasoline fumes I guess!I found the problem! I had put the new coil in backwards. There is an arrow on the side of it to match the flywheel rotation. Duh! Breathing too many gasoline fumes I guess!
When you replaced the coil did you gap it per specs? Are the magnets still on the flywheel?When you replaced the coil did you gap it per specs? Are the magnets still on the flywheel?
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Locate connectors where wiring harnesses from engine and equipment are joined. Separate connectors and remove white kill lead from engine connector. Rejoin connectors and position or insulate kill lead terminal so it cannot touch ground.
If spark returns after isolating the ignition modules by disconnecting the white wire then the problem is with the machine, not the engine.
Try boosting it directly from the battery and see if it will turn over now. I had that problem and found my cable on the ground side had corrosion in it. I put new cables on and is ok now.
spark control, yes, trace spark plug wire back to its end, you will find what I will call a coil, for lack of the better word, it can be. I would think that is your problem, if you are presently not getting a spark in the plug.
sounds like you may have ignition coil or module whichever you prefer (one in the same) may be heating up and shutting down? Check all your grounding connections also
just trace the spark plug wire to the coil but you can check the spark by putting a new plug in the wire and make sure it is grounded and turn the engine over if you have spark then you have to pull the fly wheel off and check the fly wheel key
Yes, I used a business card for the gap. The magnets were definitely pulling hard on the coil.
Initially I had a problem of the engine stopping after a few minutes of mowing. After it rested and cooled, it would start back up. The last time this happened, it wouldn't start. Checked the spark and nothing. Replaced the voltage regulator and then the coil. Still nothing, then unhooked the ground wire from the coil, still nothing. Maybe the new coil is defective? Thanks so much for your help!
I found the problem! I had put the new coil in backwards. There is an arrow on the side of it to match the flywheel rotation. Duh! Breathing too many gasoline fumes I guess!
When you replaced the coil did you gap it per specs? Are the magnets still on the flywheel?
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