Question about Elgin Watches
SOURCE: Watch Band Adjustment
I just got this watch for a gift and was able to remove links myself after doing some research. It really isn't difficult if you are patient, have a little mechanical experience, and have some very basic "tools" available.
Try to pick a well lit table in a room where you will not be interrupted.
1. Lay the watch and band sideways on the block of wood so that a pin for the link you would like to remove is just hanging over the edge of the block and pointing down. You need the block to brace the band while you hammer lightly on the pin. Someone to hold the watch in that position would be helpful, but it can be done alone. Only try to remove pins that have an arrow on the back of the band pointing at them. It does not matter with this watch band which way you go with the pin.
2. Carefully line up the push pin point with the top of the pin.
3. Slowly, lightly and carefully hammer the plastic side of the push pin so that the pin in the link just emerges from the band on the bottom side enough so that you can grab it with the small pliers.
4. Slowly and carefully pull the pin straight out with the pliers. You can pick up the watch from the block of wood to get a better grip. Be careful not to bend the pin since you will need to replace at least one of the pins you remove.
5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 until the band is the correct length. I needed to take out 3 so I removed 2 from one side and 1 from the other side of the clasp.
6. To fasten the watch back together again, gently insert the pin back in the hole it came from it. You will probably need to use the tack hammer to make the top of the pin flush with the band.
Posted on Jan 09, 2008
For my relic ZR15372, all I did was take a thin, hard object (a thumbtack in my case) and carefully pushed out the connecting bar from the link.
If you look at the inside of the band of your watch, you may notice that on some of the links (the ones nearest the clasp for me) there is a little arrow pointing at the side - if you look at the side of the links, there should be a little hole, big enough to push a thumbtack into. If you apply enough pressure (again, carefully - no need to stab your thumb or any other part of your body), the connector pin should slide out a little on the other side. Then it's just a matter of pulling the pin out - perhaps a pair of tweezers would do the trick.
Hope this works for you!
Posted on Mar 04, 2008
This was on a Seiko Dive watch SKX007. This has the metal links joined with pins, which, you will find, are split/spring down their length.
I used a neoprene mouse mat as a work surface, which was ideal as it allows the pin to move out, whilst supporting the links and stopping any slippage. I also rigged a table lamp close by.
There is an arrow which shows in which direction the pin needs to be pushed to remove it. Look carefully and you see that one end of the pin is slotted a little, the other is plain. Push the plain end in the direction of the arrow firmly... it's a leap of faith.
As a tool, I used a cocktail stick to start with. It required firm pressure and then it suddenly gives. I was able to draw the pin out by hand, but used pin nose pliars in one instance, as some pins offer more resistance than others. In most cases the cocktail stick worked (I got through a few). I then graduated to a thumb tack which was more reliable, but metal to metal, so a bit more worrying.
Sliding the pin back was simple, though take care to get the smaller links the right way up when it is re-threaded. I pushed it home the last few millimeters with the flat side of the pliers, giving a final push with the cocktail stick. Good luck. Simplysimon.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
You may or may not have
arrows inside bracelet.Arrows are pointing the way the pins must come
First you have to find out what sort of pins or even screws are used to keep links together.
Examine both bracelet sides and find the side where pin ends have a groove.
Start with a tiny screwdriver and start to unscrew one of the screws. If it turns, but doesn't come out, that means you have a pins instead.
For removing pins the best would be pin removing tool (approx.5GBP on ebay), but it's possible to do the job without it.
Take a hardened steel needle and blunt the sharp end to the approx. size of pin end diameter using any sharpening stone or sandpaper. Get an old towel and fold it to make a soft base for work (like small cusion). As you don't have a special bracelet holder you will need a pair of helping hands to hold the bracelet steady upright. You will need small hammer and pair of flat nose pliers as well.
NOTE: The pins MUST be driven split end out first, not vice versa. Make sure that the grooved pin ends are facing towel, not the needle and hammer!!!
Now place the watch on the folded towel, take that needle and smallest hammer you have and start driving the pin out using light blows. Do Not hit hard, as you will brake the needle, scratch your watch or even injure yourself. Watchmakers are using 45 gram hammer, so, calculate your strength of blows.
After a few blows check if the split end is coming out and when you see that the end is long enough to grab it with pliers, pull the pin out with pliers. When pulling, do NOT turn pliers, as pins tend to brake when twisted. Use firm grip and your strength to pull the pin without twisting.
After shortening the bracelet or adding extra link(s) make sure that the pins go back EXACTLY the same way as they came out- the blunt end first in the hole and the split (grooved) end last. Before doing that check remaining pins in bracelet to make sure that you put them back from the right side of bracelet.
It is recommended to use plastic hammer to drive pins back in or you will scratch or damage bracelet. If plastic hammer is not available use an old toothbrush handle (or some plastic item) as an absorber. Simply put pin into the hole as deep as you can with your fingers, put the toothbrush handle on split pin end and hit handle, not the pin.
Make sure that pin ends are flush with bracelet. If needed- hit few more times.
Don't forget to rate, please.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
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