I HAVE A COBY DVD938 HOME TEATER ONE OF THE SATELITE SPEAKER IS NOT WORKING NEED REPLACEMENT 80W 4 OHMS AT 1KHZ,THD 10%

Yes you can the figure you quoted is MINIMUM power, always go more than the minimum. Just like the freeway there is a minimum speed and a maximum speed, so staying within the 2 ranges of speed you are good.

The DVD938 only has analog audio input (2.1 channel), thats why you have only a white (left channel) and red (right channel) audio connection from your ps3 to the home theatre. There is an option called PROLOGIC in the setup menu that will simulate 5.1 with the 2.1, it basically takes the 2.1 channels and splits it into all the speakers.

From the specs this amp can only handle 4ohms when bridged but can handle 2ohms when it's not bridged

Specifications

• Continuous Power (20Hz-20kHz, 0.04% THD)
  • 2 ch: (4 Ohm) 100Wx2
  • 2 ch: (2 Ohm) 200Wx2
  • 1 ch: (4 Ohm) 400Wx1
• Maximum Power (EIAJ)
  • 2 ch: (4 Ohm) 250Wx2
  • 1 ch: (4 Ohm) 750Wx1
• Frequency Response: 10Hz - 50kHz (0,-1dB)
• Total Harmonic Distortion: <0.01% (1kHz, 4 Ohm)
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >105dB (IHF-A Weighted, at 1kHz)
• Dimensions: 10-3/8" x 2-1/2" x 13-5/8"

Hope that helps.

your amplifier has the following specs:

Output Power at 12V:
1 x 200W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 400W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)
Output Power at 14.4V:
1 x 300W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)

• 1 x 600W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)
  

RMS Continuous Power (at 12.0V)
Per channel into 4 ohms...............40W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms ..............50W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms.....................100W, 0.3% THD

RMS Continuous Power (at 14.4V)
Per channel into 4 ohms...............60W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms...............80W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms.....................160W, 0.3% THD
Max. Power (at 14.4V)
Per channel into 4 Ohms..............120W
Bridged into 4 Ohms....................320W
This should help.

Audio section
Max Power Output (4 ohms, 1kHz)
Rear 70W + 70W
Front 35W + 35W
Max Power Output (4 ohms, 1kHz, 10% THD)
Rear 45W + 45W
Front 25W + 25W
Max Power Output (4 ohms, 1kHz, 1& THD)
Rear 37W + 37W
Front 20W + 20W
Frequency Response (-3dB)
Rear 2 Hz ~ 100 kHz
Front 5 Hz ~ 50 kHz

Gday there mate!
ive got two of these amps in my car.
im trying to run 2 x 12'' subs off one and a 15'' sub + 2 x 6x9 speakers..

i cant get any sound coming out.
i had some one wire it up the first time and it worked good.
but ive now disconnected it and now i cant get anything going ... :(

could some one please yell out and give me some help please ..

mostly apreciated...


and mate heres some things....


Output Power at 12V:
4 x 60W @ 4 ohms (0.08% THD)
4 x 80W @ 4 ohms (10% THD)
4 x 110W @ 4 ohms (30% THD)
4 x 110W @ 2 ohms (10% THD)
2 x 150W @ 4 ohms bridged
2 x 220W @ 4 ohms bridged (10% THD)
S/N Ratio: >100dB
Channel Separation: >70dB
Freq. Response: 5Hz ∼ 100kHz
Fuse: 2 x 25A

The XM-1002HX is a two-channel amplifier with power ratings of 100 watts x 2 or 280 watts x 1 into 4 ohms and 140 watts x 2 into 2 ohms. ...

CEA-2006 Compliant Amplifier Power Standard:
• 125 Watts x 2 @ 4 ohms <= 1% THD+N
• 380 Watts x 1 @ 4 ohms BRIDGE <=1% THD+N
• 75 dBA Signal-to-Noise Ratio
• Peak Music Power: 250W x 2 (4 ohm) / 760W x 1 (Bridge)
• 2 Channels
• Continuous Power @ 4 Ohm: 125W x 2
• Continuous Power @ 2 Ohm: 190W x 2
• Continuous Power Bridged @ 4 Ohm: 380W x 1
• Frequency Response: 10Hz-50kHz
• THD (1kHz, 4 Ohm): <0.015%
• Signal to Noise Ratio: >95dB
• Dimensions: 11 13/16” x 2 3/8” x 12 7/8”
• PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply
• Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
• Oversized Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals
• 2 Channel RCA Inputs
• Speaker Level Input
• Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
• Hi-Volt Input Level Control (200mV-6.5V)
• Bass Boost (50Hz, 0/6/12dB)
• Selectable LPF (80Hz, -12dB/Oct.)
• Pioneer 1-Year Warranty

I'm assuming the subwoofers were bridged and couldn't handle the power. Make sure you have atleast 300 watts peak power wattage.

your amplifier has the following specs:

Output Power at 12V:
1 x 200W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 400W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)
Output Power at 14.4V:
1 x 300W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 600W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)

a .5 farad cap should work fine for 12v applications, a .75 will work fine for 14.4v applications. If you plan on upgrading the stereo system in the future, you should probably just pick up a 1 farad now and save trouble later.

when mounting the cap, mount it as close to the sub as possible. i recommended a deep cycle battery in an earlier solution due to the power handling requirements for the amp and speaker combo, any time you are working on a competition or semi-competition setup, you will want to isolate your audio system as much as possible from your vehicle's main electronics. i normally use a deep cycle battery if it's going to be a comp/street combo as you can sit at the lake and jam all night without killing your main battery. for comp only use, i stick to optima batteries, they seem to work well and can dump loads of amperage pretty quick.

if you go the dual battery route, you will want to buy a battery isolator to make sure the two batteries are independent of each other.

hope this helps,
trin