Water line is not frozen, and optics are good, however the icemaker will not work. Took the cover off the module, and one of the two little plastic gear clips in the middle had broken off. Could this cause the icemaker to not function? Thanks.
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The machine has problems and they hve to be addressed.
The machine needs to be shut off, and the food moved.
I do not recommend using a hair dryer since it can melt things you never want to melt.(Those components are plastic and vinyl).
The DUAL WATER VALVE in the bottom back of the machine, needs replaced at the same time, since it's the cause of your problems.
As well, the line to the water outlet could be frozen, which means defrosting the freezer door completely.
Looking at a 12 hour minimum off time, with the machine unplugged.
Using a floor fan blowing into the freezer compartment will reduce that time to approx. 8 hours.
I just resolved an issue with my kenmore elite side by side refrigerator icemaker (model 106).
It was expensive because I took the long road to fixing the unit myself.
My problem: No water going up to the freezer water dispenser into the
icemaker but the water in front of the door working just fine.
-first thing i tried was the simplest. The Internet is clogged with
this miracle fix of using a hair dryer to melt the frozen water line
going to the dispenser output. This is highly unlikely for our model
since the water line is protected within the refrigerator frame.
-2nd thing I replaced my water filter (thinking that there wasn't
enough water pressure to trigger the solenoid valve. $40, and still no
-3rd thing was I tested for voltage going to the solenoid. No voltage
going to solenoid, so I wasted $30 for a new solenoid.....still no
-4th thing was I ordered a new IR sensor and receiver (since the
reciever end is where the relay that sends the voltage to the solenoid
to turn on and allow water to go up to the dispenser).
My IR sender and receiver appeared to be working flakey.
Installed, still no water. $58 BUCKS ON EBAY (EVERYWHERE ELSE $100+)
-I finally removed the freezer front little white door, I TURNED OFF
THE FREEZER SWITCH SO NO VOLTAGE WAS PRESENT, removed the release latch
underneath the freezer unit and disconnected, and removed the freezer
unit to inspect it further.
When I removed the protective white cover that covers the mechanical
wheel, I had a few parts come flying out of it. Turns out that the
wheel accessories were damaged. THERE ARE NO REPAIRABLE PARTS ON THE
FREEZER UNIT. I FOUND ONE ON EBAY FOR $39 BUCKS + $9 SHIPPING! $48
BUCKS, SWAPPED THE HARNESS AND BOTTOM COVER, AND IN 20 MINUTES, I WAS
BACK IN BUSINESS. STARTED MAKING ICE IN ABOUT A HALF HOUR!!!!!
when in doubt, replace the freezer unit for $48 bucks! 7 out of 10
times it will fix your problems. All techs replace the IR set at the
same time too which will set you back another $58 bucks.
Good luck! ;)
Your unit has infered sensors on the frezzer left and right walls. There is a diagnostic test sheet brown in color in your kick plate.All you have to do is open frezzer door look on the right sensor it should blink twice followed by a 1-2 sec delay,if that is good press in flapper door on right sensor do not block path of infered beam you will not see a beam its invisable.Once you hold in flapper on right sensor the led should be solid.If solid optics are good if not solid led replace optic sensors
Look at the "fill" tube that fills icemaker with water. If it is frozen, replace water valve located behind fridge in compressor department, hint: it is blue... If not frozen up, it may be the icemaker... It's either the icemaker or the water valve UNLESS your ice bucket is located in the door, then it could be the "optical" computer board eye that "see's" accross the ice bucket....
pull the front cover off of the icemaker and see if the drive gear is broken (there are 2 tabs in the center of the gear make sure these arent twisted or broken as well) if so replace the module on the fron of the icemaker. if that checks fine check for frozen fill line..
When you open the freezer door the light should be blinking. When you hold the flipper door shut (on the left hand side) without blocking the beam, the light should stay on solid. If all of this happens then the optics are o.k. If optics are ok then you most likely have a broken motor module on the icemaker and should replace the icemaker thermostat along with it. A bad icemaker thermostat will lead to the module breaking. If you not sure how to replace these parts then I would just replace the whole icemaker. That would be easiest and usually not much more expensive.