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How many pieces 3.25 x 2.0 inches can be cut from a 8 1/2 x 11 inch sheet of Cardstock?

I am making label to identify the drawers in my file cabinets. The holders are 3.25 inches by 2.0 inches. I am cutting these from a standard 8 1/2 inch 11 inch sheet of Cardstock. How do cut to get the most labels and least amount of waste?

Posted by Ronald Landis on


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12. 3 across and 4 down with both the sheet and the labels in landscape rotation.

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Counter depth is key to functional, comfortable kitchen design. Standard dimensions keep cabinetry within reasonable size for average-height users, and in relation to common sink and appliance sizes, but guidelines allow for slight or moderate changes. The countertop overhang plays a couple of roles and affects counter depth.
Standard lower, or base, cabinets are 24 inches deep, while upper, or wall, cabinets are 12 inches deep. Countertops typically overhang their base cabinets by about 1 inch, or at least 3/4 inch beyond the drawer fronts and cabinet doors. The overhang helps keep crumbs and spills from getting into drawers and cupboards below and completes the comfortable cabinetry contour that includes a 3-inch-deep toe kick on the floor. Island or bar-style overhangs often extend about 15 inches or more to create knee space for people seated at the bar. Deep overhangs require bracing, which may be provided by brackets, legs or even a steel plate underneath the countertop.

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I want to replace my vanity top in the power room. i vanity top touches the wall on each side. I have measured wall to wall and it's 36 inches wide but all standard vanity tops are 37 inches wide. To...

yes simply remove the drywall from both sides of where you are installing the cabinet then either cut the old pieces to fit above and drywall tape over the seam where you cutthe old piece out or get a new piece of drywall and cut it to fit into the space above alternatively you can try to cut into the drywall perfect fit which you would then just silicon around to fill the seam

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How can above ground pool be repaired

It sounds like the hole is relatively small. You can make a patch using a piece of sheet metal or a piece of flat aluminum which you can purchase at Lowes or Home Depot in the hardware dept. Use sheet metal if the metal surround is metal. Use aluminum if the surround is aluminum. You can tell which is which by taking a magnet and touching the metal. If the magnet sticks, it's metal not aluminum. Cut the patch using sheet metal shears to a size that is 4 inches by four inches larger than the hole. Then you'll have two inches on each side of the hole. You are going to need to put the patch on the inside of the metal, between the liner and the metal surround. This so the hole edges won't tear the liner. When you cut the patch, round off the edges so there are no sharp edges. Take duct tape and cover the edges of the patch. Place 1/2 the width of the duct tape and apply it to one side of the patch and fold the other half over to the other side. You can cut a round patch, but a square or rectangle patch will be easier. Just cut the corners round. Purchase a small tube of silicone sealant ( when you but the patch material) and apply a bead around the patch edges and in the middle. Then affix the patch over the hole. Wipe off any sealant that ozzed through the patch so it doesn't bond to the liner.

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My 110.66652500 must have the 4" diameter extension at the base in the back to go through my doorway. How do I take that part off ?

All right, here's what I'd do.Consider which of these two might work for you.
1) Remove the trim around the door frame and then remove that part of the door frame to allow youself the extra inches to slide the dryer through.
If you are quite handy, you might even make a few small cuts with a saw to widen the door space, and put it all back together.
2) Cut off the sheet metal extension about 1 inch from the "elbow".
Save your cut off piece, and put it back together with a sheet metal sleeve, that you can make from some scrap.
Use the drill I see you have to make several small screw holes in both the piece on the back of the machine and the piece you cut off.
Think in terms a cast on a broken arm for the picture in your mind.
Maybe even do both.
Be blessed.

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1 Answer

How can i get more cfm out of a saylor beall 703 pump. The 705 look exactly the same to me but put out 3 times the cfm. I am guessing it is the same pump just bored out or maybe stroked with a bigger motor...

The 703 has bore sizes of 3 1/2 and 1 7/8 inch with a 3 1/2 inch stroke, the 705 has bore sizes of 4 1/2 and 2 1/8 inch and stroke of 3 1/2 inches. I am also sending you a link to the cut sheets for each pump. How they determine that a 705 is used for 3 H.P. is to turn the pump at 540 rpm and at 5 H.P. it is turning at 845 rpm. this all depends on motor rpm and motor pulley diameter to get the correct ratio of rpm and horse power at the pump.

703 cut sheet link;

705 cut sheet link;

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1 Answer

Cannot use die cuts

No I don't think your machine is defective. Here are some "sandwich" ideas to help you. I know you asked just for Cuttlebug dies; I included other "sandwiches" that you can do with your Cuttlebug. If you need further assistance feel free to contact me.

Magnetic/ Metal Sheets & Thin cork (Media)

Cuttlebug Dies
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Die (cutting side up), Cardstock, Plate “B”
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Die (cutting side up), Chipboard, Plate “B”
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, die (cutting side up), Media, Plate “B”

Cuttlebug Embossing Folders
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Folder (with cardstock inside), Plate “B”
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Folder (with chipboard inside), Plate “B”
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Folder (with metal sheet inside), Plate “B”
You will need Spellbinders Tan Embossing Mat to emboss in
Cuttlebug™ machine (or a plumbers gasket cut to size, or some use a mouse pad)
Cutting Sandwich - (Stack from bottom up)
1. A plate
2. C plate
3. Spellbinders Die (cutting side up) that means the side with the
4. paper or cardstock
5. B plate
6. Run through Cuttlebug™ machine.

Embossing Sandwich- (Stack from bottom up)
*Remove C Plate for embossing sandwich
1. Place A plate on bottom
2. Leave die face up on A plate with die cut still in the die.
3. Place one Spellbinders Tan Embossing Mat on top of the die.
4. Use 2 or 3 pieces of cardstock to shim.
*Cautionary Note: Using more than 3 pieces of cardstock to
shim Cuttlebug Embossing sandwich will result in B Plate
breakage. When using Spellbinders Edgeabilities card making
dies, shim with only 2 pieces of card stock.
5. Place two acrylic B plates on top of sandwich and run thru
Cuttlebug machine to emboss Spellbinders die cuts.
6. Turn die over and use like a stencil with inks and chalks for
added detail.

BigShot Embossing Folders
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Folder (with cardstock inside), Plate “B”, Cardstock shim

BigShot Large Dies
Plate “B”, Cardstock, Die (cutting side down), Plate “B”

Revolution Dies
Plate “A”, Plate “C”, Die, Cardstock, Plate “B”

Sizzlit Dies
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Die (cutting side up), Cardstock, Plate “B”
Note: Provocraft suggests using Plate” C” instead of the second Plate “B”, however, CB owners have cracked plates, so try with two “B” plates first.

Sizzix Original Dies & other Steel Rule Dies
Plate “B”, Cardstock, Die (cutting side down), Plate “B”
Plate “B”, Chipboard, Die (cutting side down), Plate “B”

Sizzix CutNFold Dies
Plate “A”, Die, Cardstock, Plate “B”, Chipboard shim
Also try:
Plate “B”, Cardstock, Die, Chipboard shim (maybe 6 layers)

Sizzix Embossing Folders aka Simple Impressions
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Folder (with cardstock inside), Plate “B”
Also try:
Plate “A”, Chipboard shims, Folder (with cardstock inside), Plate “B”

QuicKuts Dies (Regular)
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Die, Cardstock, Plate “C”
Plate “A”, Plate “C”, Die (cutting side up), Chipboard, Cardstock shim, Plate “B”

QuicKuts Dies (Grand)
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, Die, Cardstock, Plate “C”

Brass Embossing Stencils
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, , Brass stencil ,paper/cardstock,mouse pad (cut to size, rubber side down), Plate “B”
Sandwich may need to pass through several times based on cardstock thickness
Or use plumber’s black rubber plus red rubber gasket, instead of mouse, then add last plate B.

Big Impressions Texture Plates
Plate “A”, BI texture Plate, Cardstock, Silicone Rubber pad (from BISK), Impressions Pad (from BISK)
*BISK-Big Impressions Starter Kit

Fiskars Texture Plates
Plate “A”, Fiskars texture Plate, Cardstock, tan Wizard pad, black or tan Wizard pad, (possible Cardstock shim,) Plate “B”
Also try:
Plate “A”, Fiskars texture Plate, Cardstock (lightly misted with water), 2 layers Fun Foam, Chipboard Shim, Plate “C”
Also try:
Plate “A”, Fiskars texture Plate, Cardstock (right side towards TP), Rubber Plate (made from Plumber’s rubber gasket), Plate “C”

Plastic thin stencils
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, , Brass stencil ,paper/cardstock,mouse pad (cut to size, rubber side down), Plate “B”
Here too- may try
Plate “A”, Plate “B”, , plastic stencil, cardstock, black rubber, red rubber, plate B

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1 Answer

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1995 chevrolet pickup 1500, how do I remove gas tank

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12 Answers

LG Tromm - soap drawer is stuck and will not open

This is caused by the "Fabric Softer" removable tray inside the drawer getting stuck in the top of the drawer cabinet.
1. Unplug machine
2. Remove four sheet metal screws and plastic plates from top of back of machine that hold the "lid" on (perhaps yours is different and only has two screws, but that's your world :) )
3. With the palm of either hand hit the both sides of the lid of the machine at about a 45 degree angle towards the back of the machine until the lid slides back about 4 inches
4. Gently remove lid (will lift off easily if you've freed it correctly)
5. On left you'll see a white box which is the cabinet for the drawer. Carefull pull the black wire from it's retainers
6. Lift up the three clips on the right side of the cabinet that hold it together
7. In the back of the cabinet, grab ahold of the plastic piece that doesn't have a hose attached (unless yours does, in which case figure it out yourself :) ) and gently pull up until you can see the cabinet coming apart in the back.
8. When you have enough clearence push a screwdriver through the opening you've created while lifting on the back of the cabinet apart, and PRESTO! The drawer will pop out.

This will happen everytime from now on if you do not remove the the "fabric softner" tray from the drawer. It is a design flaw that will happen to all models eventually. If you must have that little tray, then find a solution that works and post a follow up here (I imagine it will involve a bench grinder :) )


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