My kenmore #59092991 side by side was flooded light inside works &thats it,is there a reset or anthing i can do for a temporary fix, can not afford a new one worked fine before flood

There are a few things to check for a long fill error. First, did water enter the washer? If no, then make sure that the shut-off valves to the washer are open. Take off the washer hoses and check the your water flow rate by opening the shut-off valves one at a time. Let the water flow into a bucket. Replace the hoses if the anti-flood hoses are restricting the water flow. If the incoming water pressure/flow rate is good, then the inlet valve has failed in the closed position. You'll need to replace the inlet valve of the washer.

If water did flow into the washer, how much water flowed in? I've seen inlet valves get partially clogged. Then the solution is to replace the valve. If the washer completely filled in the expected time, then the problem is in the water pressure sensor. This could happen if there is dirt in the air tube. Try blowing out the air tube. Otherwise, you'll have to check the sensor, wiring and the control board. The control board didn't get the washer full message when the tub reached the appropriate water level.

I hope this helps. Please add a comment with the model number of your Kenmore HE washer for the parts diagram.

Cindy Wells
(On my washer, the LF message came when there was a build-up of calcium carbonate on the hot water side only. We managed a temporary fix using vinegar to dissolve the deposit inside the valve. Replacing the inlet valve was a more permanent fix.)

Faulty door switch?

Check the phone book, many places will pick these up for free.

You are getting moisture in the control panel buttons. After a while the panel will not function at all. The light in the dryer tub will still come on when the door is open. When you unplug your machine and it sets for awhile you are allowing the moisture to dry and the machine can reset. Some people use a hair dryer to dry out the control panel for a temporary fix. Eventually, you will have to get it replaced once it stops resetting for you.

The FL (Over Fill) error code indicates that the flood pressure switch is open (tripped). It is likely that you are getting the LD (Long Drain) fault code because the control detects that the flood pressure switch will not reset after running the drain pump. Your likely failure is in the flood pressure switch

Tapping on the flood pressure switch with the handle of a screw driver may reset it. Reassemble the washer and see if it will work properly. If not, then you will need to replace the flood pressure switch. The part number for the flood pressure switch is 8054767. You can order this part from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the flood pressure switch is 8054767.

Thanks to all.
What we couldn't work out is what is actual mechanism of anti-flood triggering, and how therefore to reset it - and why all these other fixes work - but then it occurred to us, that problem is when water gets into the base and can't get out.
Our problem was that water inlet at top of washer came loose so water ran down outside the drum but inside the dishwasher, into the base. We tried the tipping method but this just moved water around and I think there must be sensor there which, if it stays wet, leaves anti-flood triggered.
This makes sense because other high level overflows from drum discharge into base - so if it was to overflow, it goes into sealed base only, wets the sensor and triggers anti-flood.
Our solution was patience - tipped it fully on its side, pointed a hot air blower into it for hour or so, then left it overnight. Tipped it back next morning, water which had run into side panel ran out, so it was upright with its base dry - and (touch wood) it worked like a charm.

Quick temporary fix - defrost the freezer (inside frezer lower back) it is probably full of frost/ice - this prevents air flow and therefore no air enters fridge side. common failure due to bimetal defrost thermostat failure ($20) - replace this part for a permanent fix - also advisable to swap out the defrost timer at same time

Quick temporary fix - defrost the freezer (inside frezer lower back) it is probably full of frost/ice - this prevents air flow and therefore no air enters fridge side. common failure due to bimetal defrost thermostat failure ($20) - replace part for permanent fix

Hi!!! Go to the back of the frig and see if the compressor and condensor fan motor are working.If not then you have a bad current relay.easy fix.its located in the compressor where the wires go into..Good luck.Heres a picture of your current relay..

I also have the same refrigerator model 106.56566400 and periodically when the power goes off in the house the refrigerator & freezer will stop cooling. Try pushing the on/off button located inside the refrigerator to the left of the digital temperature controls. Hold the button down, this turns the unit off, then press it again to turn it back on. This basically resets the refrigerator, and most of the time works to get the refrigerator cooling again. Try this first before calling a repair man.