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most newer mopeds have a suction valve on the gas tank . It has one hose line that gets vacuum from the engine and the other line feeds fuel to motor. Pull the fuel delivery line off at the carb and crank the motor over, if fuel comes out while cranking it is good if not replace it. Fuel will not come out of line if its not cranked over is normal.
Remove the screw from the metal bracket that is holding the fuel filter. It is located right below the battery to the right. To get the quick connect fuel line fittings off. YOU WILL NEED A DISCONNECT TOOL. O'Reillys or Auto Zone should have the tool pack of (6) The small gray one fits the 2001 Sportage. Put the plastic tool under the fuel line fitting and squeeze together. The fuel line will pop off the old filter. To remove the rear fuel line, go under the vehicle and use the tool on the fuel line. There is a rubber hose with 2 quick connect fittings. One end attaches to the filter and the other end attaches to a metal fuel line under vehicle. Remove the fitting that attaches to the metal line since there is no room on the back of filter for the tool to fit. Once you get the whole assembly out of the car.... you can work on getting the fitting off the rear of the old filter. Be very careful not to damage the plastic quick connect fittings! KEEP YOUR FACE CLEAR OF THE FILTER A SMALL AMOUNT OF GAS WILL COME OUT!!!!!
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and install a pressure test gauge according to the tool manufacturers instructions.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 3 seconds, then turn to the OFF position for 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two or three times to pressurize the system. Again turn the switch to the ON position.
On TBI equipped vehicles, the gauge should read a static pressure of between 9 and 13 psi (62-89kPa)
On SFI equipped vehicles, the gauge should read a static pressure of between 41 and 47 psi (248-325kPa)
If not, check for a clogged fuel filter, a kinked fuel line, or an inoperative fuel pump.
On TBI equipped vehicles, the fuel pressure will drop after the fuel pump stops running due to a controlled bleed in the fuel system. Use of the fuel pressure gauge will determine if the fuel system pressure is enough for the engine to start and run.
No fuel spray from the injector indicates a faulty fuel or ignition system or no PCM control of the injector.
This test will determine if the ignition control module is not generating the reference pulse or if the wiring or PCM are at fault. By touching and removing a test light to B+ on CKT 430 (purple/white wire from the ignition system), a reference pulse should be generated. If the injector test light blinks, the PCM and wiring are OK.
If the pump tests bad...
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Block the front wheels and raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely. Make sure the rear is high enough to accommodate the removal of the fuel cell.
Loosen the fuel filler neck connecting tube clamp at the tank.
Wrap a shop towel around the fuel filter neck connecting tube and slowly remove the fuel filler neck connecting tube from the fuel tank.
Position a siphon hose into the fuel tank through the fuel filler opening. Place the other end into an approved container with enough capacity to hold the fuel in the tank. Siphon the fuel.
Raise the vehicle to gain access to the fuel tank. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported.
Disconnect the tail pipe hanger attaching bolt.
Remove the muffler hanger attaching bolts and remove the muffler hanger.
Loosen the converter hanger attaching nuts.
Remove the two heat shield attaching screws and note the position for reassembly.
Support the exhaust and move the heat shield to gain the access to the right side of the fuel tank retaining strap attaching bolts.
Remove the in-line fuel filter body clips.
If the nylon fuel feed or return lines becomes kinked, and cannot be straightened, they must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair sections of the nylon fuel lines.
Disconnect the quick-connect fitting at the fuel filter, and return line fitting.
Disconnect the fuel tank electrical connector.
Disconnect the vapor hose at the fuel tank.
Disconnect the vent hose at the fuel tank.
With the aid of an assistant, support the fuel tank, remove the left and right tank retaining strap attaching bolts, and remove the tank.
As necessary, remove the fuel sending unit (which includes the fuel pump), as outlined, in this section.
Then you can change the pump:
Remove the fuel sender assembly.
Disassemble the fuel pump strainer and the fuel pump: Note the position of the strainer in relation to the pump.
See Figure 3
Fig. 3: Remove the fuel tank locking ring with a non-sparking (brass) punch.
Support the fuel pump in one hand, and grab the strainer in the other hand.
Rotate strainer in one direction and pull off pump. Discard strainer.
Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
Loosen the two connecting clamps, if equipped.
Place the fuel sender assembly upside down on the work bench.
Pull the fuel pump downward to remove it from the mounting bracket, then tilt the pump outward and remove it from the connecting hose or the fuel pulse dampener.
It is recommended to replace the hose and clamps, if equipped.
Push the fuel pump assembly into the attaching hose. Attach the pump electrical wires and fasten the hose clamps to the attaching hose and around the pump body, where equipped.
Place the fuel tank sender and pump assembly into the fuel tank. Use a new O-ring seal during assembly.
Then put the tank back in:
If the fuel tank is replaced, transfer the fuel feed and return lines from the mounting clips, the vapor hose from the mounting clips and the vent hose from the vent hose fitting.
Check the fuel filler neck for cracks and holes and replace as necessary.
Install the fuel sending unit.
With the aid of an assistant, position and support the fuel tank and install the left and right tank retaining strap attaching bolts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs.
Connect the vent and vapor hoses.
Connect the fuel sending unit electrical connector.
Connect the quick-connect fittings as outlined.
Position the fuel sending unit electrical connector and fuel return line under the in-line fuel filter bracket.
Install the in-line fuel filter and new body clips.
Reposition the heat shield as noted during removal and tighten the retaining screws to 18 lbs. ft.
Tighten the converter hanger attaching bolts to 20 lbs. ft.
Install the muffler hanger and attaching bolts and tighten to 18 lbs. ft.
Install the tailpipe hanger attaching bolt and tighten to 20 lbs. ft.
Lower the vehicle, add fuel and install the fuel filler cap.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 3 seconds, then turn to the OFF position for 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two or three times to pressurize the system. Again turn the switch to the ON position and check for leaks.
The fuel filter is located right below the battery to the right. If you intend changing it, here are a few steps to help. Firstly, remove the screw from the metal bracket that is holding the fuel filter. To get the quick connect fuel line fittings off, you need a disconnect tool. I got a pack of 6 at Advance Auto for $12. The small gray one fits the 2001 Sportage.
Put the plastic tool under the fuel line fitting and squeeze together. The fuel line will pop off the old filter. To remove the rear fuel line, I had to go under the vehicle and use the tool on the fuel line. There is a rubber hose with 2 quick connect fittings. One end attaches to the filter and the other end attaches to a metal fuel line under vehicle. Remove the fitting that attaches to the metal line since there is no room on the back of filter for the tool to fit. Once you get the whole assembly out of the car, you can work on getting the fitting off the rear of the old filter. Be very careful not to damage the plastic quick connect fittings!
First you should check your trunk. some newer chevy's have an access pannel uner the trunk liner inside the trunk. you remove the liner, remove the bolts and panel, and the pump is right there. it may take some effort to get it wiggled through, but trust me, it will fit. you must remove the fuel lines and wire harness first, then remove the lock ring completely before attempting to pull the pump through the access hole. if that fails then you need to drop you fuel tank to access the pump. there are instructions for removal and installation of the tank below.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the fuel tank, using a hand-operated pump device to drain as much fuel through the filler tube as possible.
Fig. View of fuel tank mounting
Fig. The fuel filler pipe is attached to the body with a bracket and retaining bolt
Fig. The fuel filler pipe is attach to the tank by a hose clamp
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Unfasten the muffler hanger bolts.
Remove the rubber exhaust hangers, then allow the exhaust system to rest on the rear axle.
Disconnect the hoses from the fuel tank sender. Grasp the filter and one nylon fuel connection line fitting. Twist the quick-connect fitting 1 / 4 turn in each direction to loosen any dirt within the fitting. Repeat for the other fitting. Using compressed air, blow out the dirt from the quick-connect fittings at the end of the fuel filter.
Detach the quick-connect fittings by pulling the release tabs back on the fuel line quick connector and pulling apart.
Disconnect the hoses at the tank from the filler, vent and vapor pipes.
With the help of an assistant, support the fuel tank, then disconnect the two tank retaining straps and carefully lower the tank.
Detach the fuel sender electrical connector.
Unplug the fuel pressure sensor connector.
Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.
If the tank is being replaced, perform the following:
Remove the sound insulators.
Remove the modular fuel pump/sender assembly, as outlined earlier in this section.
Inspect all connectors for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace, as required. Inspect the fuel line O-rings for cuts, nicks, swelling and/or distortion and replace as necessary.
Install the fuel sender assembly to the new tank, as outlined earlier in this section.
Install the sound insulators.
With the help of an assistant, raise the fuel tank to the vehicle and attach the fuel sender connector and, if equipped, the fuel pressure sensor connector.
Raise the fuel tank into position then fasten the retaining straps. Tighten the retaining bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Connect the hoses to the filler, vent and vapor pipes.
Attach the nylon fuel feed and return connecting line quick-connect fittings to the fuel sender, as follows:
Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male connector tube ends.
Push the connectors together to cause the retaining tabs/fingers to snap into place.
Once installed, pull on both ends of each connection to be sure they are secure.
Install the rubber exhaust hangers.
Install the muffler hanger bolts, then tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
Attach the fuel tank sender electrical connector.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Refill the fuel tank, then connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds, then turn it to the OFF position for ten seconds. Turn again to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and relieve the fuel system pressure.
Siphon or pump as much fuel as possible out through the fuel filler pipe.
Fuel injected vehicles have reservoirs inside the fuel tank to maintain fuel near the fuel pick-up during cornering or low-fuel operation. These reservoirs could block siphon hoses or tubes from reaching the bottom of the fuel tank. Repeated attempts, using different hose orientations, can overcome this obstacle.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If equipped, remove the skid plate attaching bolts, then lower the plate and remove it.
On Explorer/Mountaineer models, the front fuel tank strap is bolted to the skid plate and will be disconnected when the plate is removed.
Disconnect the fuel fill and vent hoses connecting the filler pipe to the tank.
On vehicles equipped with a metal retainer fastening the filler pipe to the fuel tank, remove the screw holding the retainer to the fuel tank flange.
Disengage the fuel lines and the electrical connections to the fuel tank sending unit/fuel pump assembly. On some vehicles, these are inaccessible on top of the tank. In this case, they must be disconnected when the tank is partially lowered.
Place a safety support (such as a floor jack) under the fuel tank and remove the bolts from the fuel tank straps. Allow the straps to swing out of the way. Be careful not to deform the fuel tank.
On Ranger vehicles, the rear fuel tank strap has two connections which must be unbolted.
Lower the tank a few inches, then detach the fuel lines and electrical connection from the sending unit/fuel pump assembly, if required.
Remove the tank from the vehicle.
Before installation, it would be wise to perform the following:
Double-check the tightness of the sending unit/fuel pump locking ring. If it is already loose, now would be a good time to remove it and check the condition of the gasket underneath.
Ensure that all metal shields are reinstalled in their original positions and that the fasteners are secure.
Be sure that the fuel vapor valve is completely installed on top of the fuel tank.
Make all necessary fuel line or wiring connections which will be inaccessible after the fuel tank is installed.
Raise the fuel tank into position in the vehicle. If necessary, attach the fuel lines and sending unit electrical connector before the tank is in its final position.
Lubricate the fuel filler pipe with a water-based lubricant. Install the tank onto the filler pipe, then bring the tank into final position. Be careful not to deform the tank.
Position the tank straps around the tank and start the retaining nut or bolt. Align the tank with the straps. If equipped, be sure the fuel tank shields are installed with the straps and are positioned correctly.
Check the hoses and wiring on top of the tank. Make sure they are correctly routed and will not be pinched between the tank and body.
Tighten the fuel tank strap retaining nuts or bolts to 20-5 ft. lbs. (3-41 Nm).
If not already attached, connect the fuel hoses and lines. Make sure the fuel supply, fuel return (if present) and the vapor vent attachments are made properly. If not already attached, connect the sending unit.
If removed, install the fuel tank skid plate.
Lower the vehicle.
Fill the tank with fuel and check all connections for leaks.
Disconnect fuel tank hose at the fuel pump, and plug the hose with a bolt or wooden dowel to keep any fuel from flowing out wires. Check the hose and if it is frayed or cracked, replace it with new fuel line hose.
Disconnect the outlet line to the carburetor. Use a wrench on the fuel pump fitting and another on the line nut.
Remove the two attaching bolts and remove the old fuel pump. Clean off any old gasket material from the mounting surface of the engine.
Apply a coat of gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket. Put the attaching bolts through the new pump and slip the gasket over the bolts.
Install the new pump on the engine. Make sure that the rocker arm in the pump is against the eccentric inside the engine, or that the push rod is correctly installed in both the engine and the fuel pump. If the push rod slides out, you can pack it with some heavy grease to hold it in place while you install the pump.
Attach the fuel outlet line that runs to the carburetor. If it's difficult to connect, remove the other end of the line from the carburetor. Connect the line to the fuel pump, and then reattach the other end to the carburetor. Use a wrench to hold the fuel pump fitting and tighten the line nut with another wrench.
Attach the fuel inlet hose from the gas tank, and the vapor return hose (if the vehicle is equipped with one). Tighten all clamps.
Reconnect the battery ground cable, start the vehicle and check for leaks.