If your pole is getting too hot put some ice on it.
SOURCE: Ryobi 18V lithium battery won't charge
Hi, Thanks for getting back to me. The yellow and blinking red indicate a defective cell. Since it has lithium cells and is that new any repair to it would be a waste of your time. Ryobi tools purchased in 2008 have a 2 year warranty. I am guessing you probably got it at a home depot and you should return it under the warranty. All new Ryobi tools have a three year warranty. Good Luck! and Thanks for using fixya!
SOURCE: Compatability issues with new Ryobi Lithium Ion Batteries
i have the same problem and have returned once for replacement charger and battery, still no working well help [email protected]
thanks
SOURCE: New Ryobi 18v lithium battery goes dead after a
No, just return it, for the money they should give you one that works. It is common to get a defective Ryobi 18v lithium battery. I've had 2 out of 7 purchased that wouldn't hold a charge. But when you get a good one they work awesome!
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SOURCE: Does it harm a Ryobi 18v lithium battery to leave on Charger?
Lithium-Ion batteries require careful charging and temperature monitoring while in the charger. Ryobi's Charging station monitors many functions and shuts off when the battery has gone through a complete charge. This is indicated by a steady Green light. Once the Charge indicator is a steady green the charger stops charging. With any battery It will slowly discharge and I don’t think the Ryobi will maintain a battery that is never removed. For example, if after a complete charge cycle if the battery was left there for 2 years and then you went to use it, it would likely be completely discharged. However if the battery charger is unplugged then plugged back in a new charge sequence would start. I lose power at my house about every 6 months or so. Once power is restored a new cycle would start and the charging cycle begins again.
Hope this helps and have a great day.
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SOURCE: how do you take apart a ryobi lithium 18v one
This applies to Li-ion. NiCd is probably somewhat different. Unscrew four security screws on the bottom of the battery. If you don't have the right bit you can grind down the center pins in the screw heads and use a T15 bit. Unscrew the hex-head screw in the center of the protruding post at the top of the battery. It may be non-standard in size but a small metric hex key wrench works if you are gentle. The four corners of the battery cover should be loose now. There are still two plastic clips holding the top cover to the main unit near the centers of the long dimensions. Gently push a knife blade into the crack between bottom and top to release the clip on each side. As you lift the top cover off you should push down on the contacts near the top of the post so you don't pull on the attaching wires. Eventually the contacts should pop free and the top cover detaches. Detach the wiring harness for the status LED from the circuit board. You can now remove the combined circuit board and battery pack from the lower case. Six screws attach the circuit board to the battery assembly, along with several solder connections, but you probably don't need to go this far. You can now test and possibly replace individual cells.
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