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The issue you're describing with your Pedrollo 80L horizontal pressure tank not having suction and not pressurizing could be caused by several factors. Here are a few steps you can try to troubleshoot the problem:
Check the installation: Ensure that the pump and tank are correctly installed, and all connections are tight.
Check the air pressure: Make sure that the air pressure in the tank is at the correct level, usually 2/3 of the total pressure.
Check the inlet and outlet: Ensure that the inlet and outlet are not clogged or blocked.
Check the suction line: Make sure that the suction line is not kinked or damaged.
Check the foot valve: Make sure that the foot valve is functioning correctly.
Check the check valve: Make sure that the check valve is functioning correctly.
Consult the manual: Consult the manual for specific troubleshooting and service information for your Pedrollo 80L horizontal pressure tank model.
If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it is best to contact Pedrollo customer service or a professional for further assistance and repair options.
To my knowledge, most oil coolers would be In Front Right Fender for 1995-1998 Porsche 911 Carrera 2 and would look something like the image below. Although I have strong doubts that your seals are needing replacement. Should they be worn out, defective oil seals would exhibit leaks that would be noticeable. Nonetheless, if you would follow the two hoses connected to the oil cooler, they would lead you right back to their entrance and exit points in the engine.
Oil mixing with the coolant and visible in the coolant reservoir indicates another problem, most probably head gasket.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
contour.org/.../82138-how-to-replacing-the-power-steering-reservoir-to-... Jul 3, 2013 - How-to: Replacing the power steering reservoir to pump hose ... to allow air into the suction side of the PS pump, aerating the fluid. ... off the spring hoseclamps from the smaller return hose and the large hose to the pump. images for How to replace suction and return hoses
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If you are not a service technician you probably won't have the tools you will need to accomplish the move. Here is what it takes, step bye step. 1. Pull the fuses or turn off the electrical breaker in the house. 2. Hook up a gauge manifold to the Condensing unit ports for the liquid and suction lines. 3. Hook up a Refrigerant recovery machine to the manifold. 4. Recover the refrigerant into recovery tanks down to a trace, no vacuum. 5. Disconnect the electrical whip and control wiring from the condenser. 6. Close off the service valves on the liquid and suction lines at the condenser. 7. Slowly unscrew the copper line connections to the condensing unit to relieve any pressure that may exist from Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the compressor and quickly cap them. 8. Move the unit to your new, firm and level location. 9. Remove the old electrical disconnect and whip and move it to the condenser. 10. Buy a new line set of the proper length or extend the old one with Refrigeration copper and couplings preserving the condenser couplings. 11. Replace the liquid line drier and reconnect the copper lines to the condensing unit. Replace the "O" Rings if needed to insure a good seal. 12. Hook up a vacuum pump to your gauge manifold. 13. Open the isolation valves on the condenser. Depending on the oil type in the system, evacuate to 250 Microns. 13. Charge system with 50 pounds of Nitrogen and a little Refrigerant for a trace test. 14. Watch your gauges for a drop in pressure indicating a leak. 15. Check all fittings and any splices with a good Halogen gas detector. 16. Evacuate the system again to the point of vaporization of the oil in the compressor being careful not to boil it off. 17. Close off all ports on your manifold and install a small drier to your Refrigerant line. 18. Re-install the recovered Refrigerant, running it through the small drier on your manifold. 19. Re-check for leaks. 20. Install the electrical whip on the contacter and the control wires on the contacter coil. 21.Start the AC and check the running amps against the name plate Full Load Amps (FLA) or Regular Load Amps (RLA) and check the Refrigerant charge against the units chart. Either in your owners manual or glued to the electrical access cover. Method 2 = Instead of recovering the refrigerant, you can pump it into the condensing unit. With your gauge manifold tied in, close the liquid line isolation valve. Run the compressor till the compound gauge reads 1 pound and close the suction line isolation valve. Doing it this way will eliminate the need for the recovery machine and heavy tanks. All else remains the same. Special tools needed = Compound gauge (meaning it reads both pressure and vacuum). High pressure gauge, gauge manifold and at least 3 hoses, a vacuum pump, leak detector (or soap bubbles) and an amp probe. Please rate this response. Thanks for asking!
Sounds more like it is a master cylinder or Vacum issue. Look under the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. That is attached to the master cylinder. Attached to that should be a 3/8 to 1/2 vacum line. Make sure that has no holes in it and is connected. If it is check the vacum on the line. You should be able to disconnect it while the engine is running and put your thumb over the end. You should be able to feel a suction on your thumb when you cover it. It may not be a strong vacum but it should be there. If it is you will need to remove and replace your Master cylinder. This is 3 bolts on the firewall that you remove after disconnecting the reservoir. There are no electrical connection on the master cylinder unless it is a sensor and it doesn't sound like you have a sensor there. Once replaced you will need to bleed the brake lines. If you need a step by step guide for this I recommend the Haynes repair manual on the vehicle.
For low suction, check that the flapper on top of the recovery tank hasn't lost its foam rubber gasket. If that's gone, you will get zero suction. If that's in place and the motor is running, you likely have a split in the hose. A service center can replace the hose or you can buy the hose and replace it yourself.
For the leakage from the clean water tank, make sure that the cap isn't leaking. Fill the tank, apply the cap and then hold it in its normal cap-down position. If there is leakage, you can replace the for $3-$4 dollars. If there isn't any leakage, then the problem is inside your unit and a trip to the service center is in order.
First figuire out the gallons per minute by running the oil out for a fixed size jug or can (ie. 5 gallon bucket) into another bucket of the same size. Time how long it takes to transfer all the liquid from one to another. Now he knows the gpm, the rule of thumb is for each two or three gallons for each gallon per minute of the pump. Note: The suction should have a strainer on it with a elbow at a 45 degree angle to prevent clogging. The return line pipe should be cut at a 45 degree angle with the large end towards the reservoir wall. This also prevents clogging and ensure the oil does not get picked up by the suction immediately so it can cool. A baffle plate between the suction and a return is also recommended. A solid plate with a gap at the bottom and lower than the operating fluid level will work effectively.
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